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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I own a 2002 VW new beetle. After I replaced my ac compressor, my system started heating up and it says im low on coolant. i pulled over and let the system cooldown and refilled it. when i got home, i popped the hood and saw a radiator hose that was sliced and it was leaking water. i had the hose replaced and now ther is no leak. but the system still says im low on coolant then the ac compressor shuts off too if my engine gets hot. i did temp testing. my engine reached 126 Celcius. Anyone experienced this? i need help. i cant use my car :/................. I CHECKED THE WATER PUMP. IT WORKS FINE... when it gets hot(engine) aux fans turns on but the engine temp is still rising
 

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I know; you have checked things already but let's double check everything, hopefully you will find the problem.

First: here are the coolant temp modes:

Blue coolant light = engine cold
Flashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring system
Flashing red coolant light = low on coolant
Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified.

First, I would scan the car; for any trouble codes, post them here, if there are any.

Confirmation; that the watepump is working and there is not any clogging of the return hose:

This shows a 2.0L but the principles are the same:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln4grYe3WnE&nohtml5=False

overview of checking coolant system, water pump replacement, removing air from the system, fans coming on, thermostat operational checks and monitoring temps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiDRUWPw_f4&nohtml5=False

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiDRUWPw_f4&nohtml5=False

Keep in mind; many times, a water pump will be on the edge of total failure. The water pumps with the plastic impeller; can be ok when cold and then at idle, be ok but when driving the impeller will spin on the shaft and not cool at optimum levels, causing an overheating condition.

The other common problem with the 1.8T; is air in the block and this can be hard to remove without a vacuum filler tool. As noted in the video; be sure to check that the return line is not clogged; if it is, it can be hard or impossible to bleed the system. He blows into the line and looks for air bubbles going back into the coolant bottle; if it is clogged, remove the hose and find the obstruction. Many hoses have a hard plastic restruction plastic piece; which has a small hole, which is easily blocked. You might blow compressed air through it and remove any blockages. For burping the system: some people; have had luck messaging the hoses (view the last video) and raising the front of the car, by putting it on ramps or jack stands. He also, recommends; drilling a small hole in the thermostat to more easily allow air to bleed out of the block. Unfortunately, VW did not put a air bleeder screw on the New Beetle. Lastley, I have also heard; of removing the hose at the firewall and cracking open the heater core hose, until coolant comes out. I continually had this problem on my 1.8T and finally went ahead, purchased a vacuum fill tool. The factory VW service manual; recommends using this type of tool, to fill the system. So, I can only assume; they are aware of the problem and thus recommend using it. This tool is amazing and will remove air in a couple of minutes and it will also, confirm that you do not have any leaks in the system. At that point; you can be confident, the system is free of air pockets and can move on in your repair process or troubleshooting steps.

Here is the tool; that I purchased, currently there are other brands and kits, that are cheaper.

UView (UV 550000)
Airlift™ Kit Cooling Tester

https://www.google.com/search?q=UView+550000+Airlift+Cooling+System+Leak+Checker+and+Airlock+Purge+Tool+Kit&oq=UView+550000+Airlift+Cooling+System+Leak+Checker+and+Airlock+Purge+Tool+Kit&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60.490j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

other less expensive kits:

https://www.google.com/search?q=UView+550000+Airlift+Cooling+System+Leak+Checker+and+Airlock+Purge+Tool+Kit&oq=UView+550000+Airlift+Cooling+System+Leak+Checker+and+Airlock+Purge+Tool+Kit&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60.490j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=vacuum+coolant+fill+tool

Let us know; the history of the car and when the last time, the waterpump was replaced. Thanks.
 

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My engine reached 126 Celcius. Anyone experienced this? i need help.
These engines should run around 96C and top out about 98C.

126C is 259F, this is cooking. You would probably have massive boil over at this temp. Does the engine really seem like it is running 126C??
 

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I had the same problem, engine running hot, cooling fan running constantly, a/c not working, red coolant light. I needed a new thermostat, and sensor.
Try replacing the thermostat before a more expensive repair. A/C works fine now.

My car is a 2003 1.8T, with 141,000 miles.. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update... I bought a new thermostat and temp sensor .. Waiting for it to arrive hehe... I just checked the water pump today. While the engine was cold and turned on the ac... There was little flow and when i rev it... Water does not flow out. Should i replace the pump? Or its because the engine was still cold :) thanks for all the replies ! I hope this will get fixed soon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Water pump it is

we tore the car apart and found that the impeller was broken into peices... gonna buy a new water pump... does anybody here know if theyre the same with the waterpump of the 2.0 beetles THANK YOU :)
 

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Bingo! I had a feeling; that your water pump was bad; it is a VERY common problem. Yes, the 1.8T/2.0L water pump is the same; I prefer a metal impeller waterpump but it is up to you.

As noted on VW's website: Engine Water Pump Beetle; 1.8L, 2.0L; Remanufactured. 06A121012GX: the part number, is the same for the 1.8T/2.0L.

http://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2002_Beetle18L-MTTurbo-S/_53892_6387275/COOLING-FAN-COOLING-SYSTEM-RADIATOR-WATER-PUMP/F510030.html

Here are examples; of the many different brands out there, DO NOT buy Hamburg Technic or URO parts, they are the lowest quality failure prone parts, made offshore in asia (the cheapest of the cheap; they WILL NOT last and in a worst case scenario, cause catastrophic damage).

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06A121012/

For a waterpump/timing belt kit; check out www.bluaparts.com. While you are in there; you want to replace everything in the timing belt path; like what is included in their kits, anything can fail and wipe out your valves/head. Also, make sure; to fully flush out the system thoroughly and replace the thermostat, as well.

For aftermarket water pumps with a metal impeller; the general consensus is that the German made Hepu brand pumps are the highest quality, followed by the Made in Italy Graf. If you are willing to use a plastic impeller; genuine VW water pumps, are said to be the best and last the longest. I have had cracked impellers; so, I naturally do not want to use plastic but it has been said, the plastic that currently is being used, has been reformulated and it not as failure prone, as the early ones were.

This controversy; may go on forever but here is some info about it, now the issue is the quality of bearing of the stock vw vs. the aftermarket versions.

Here is a video; discussing the common failure modes of the pumps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xc77wsYhRhk
 

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A/c

For those of you folks that were wondering why the A/C system shots off. There is a pressure switch mounted on the high side line right before the firewall and if the condenser gets no air or hot air flowing through it that trips the high pressure switch and shots off the compressor......happy troubleshooting folks. :D
 
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