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strange things are afoot
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1,535 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For anyone who wants a little tighter front suspension.. these are the parts for you.

The Audi TT uses the same basic front suspension, only upgraded.

the front bushings are the same for both vehicles
(2) 357 407 182 Impex $4.18 EACH

the rear bushings on the front control arms are the difference.
NB Factory Part #
(2) 1J0 407 181 Impex $16.36 EACH

Audi TT Part number (NO Kidney bean shaped cutouts, SOLID RUBBER)
(2) 8N0 407 181 B Impex $16.29 EACH

I have the TT bushings on my vehicle and they are GLORIOUS!

below are photos of the NB front and the new TT rear bushings. and the ETKA screencap.
 

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strange things are afoot
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1,535 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
f anyone is interested, this is what the original NB part number looks like... notice the 2 bean shaped slots (makes it flex easier) along the east/west axis... these are the holes.

Fuzzy edges are paper thin forming material, but here is a shot showing the holes in the NB bushing. without flash and with flash
 

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strange things are afoot
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1,535 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Deserion said:
Doesn't the bushing change cause the front to need realigned?

-Des
Yes and no.

I needed to get my alignment checked after getting this work done, but when it was all said and done, the alignment was still spot on. the only thing that can be adjusted on our cars is Toe (straight from Rally VW, they should know) and after having both control arms removed and reinstalled, my alignment was spot on still.

to get the rear bushings out, you need a shop press and a pipe sized just inside the O.D. of the new bushing.

to get the front bushings out, you need a long bolt, nut, 2 different washers and a pipe piece sized to go outside the bushing for its whole length.
weld the long bolt to the big washer so it cannot spin.
weld the big washer to the pipe piece
slide the bolt/washer/pipe thru the front bushing
slide a 1/2" drive deep well socket over the bolt to push on the inner cylinder of the bushing
put a washer behind the socket and spin the nut down and just crank the old bushing out.

reinstallation is similiar. you need to use soapy water (NO GREASE) to lube the new bushing. you just dont use the socket in the reinstall.

once you get the bushing thru the far side, use a rubber mallet to center the front bushing in its seat.
 

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I replaced the bushings on my front control arms with the ECS poly bushings but only did the big hockey puck shaped ones... Too be honest for the amount of work that goes into removing and installing the smaller front bushings, I don't think there's much of a difference there unless you're going to be doing hardcore race use. Just the pucks stiffened the ride up plenty and also totally eliminated wheel hop.

If you have access to a press, doing the pucks is very easy, it didn't take me more than 10 minutes per side (of course i did it at work afterhours on a lift with air tools, and I'm a tech for a living).
 

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strange things are afoot
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1,535 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I wouldn't have done the fronts either, if I didnt have to...

this is the whole reason I had anything done in the first place..

sure glad I needed it. the upgrade is WELL worth it. note I only upgraded the rear hockey puck, my new fronts are OEM
 

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Performance Freak
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137 Posts
Well... you can adjust the camber a little by loosening the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint on and pulling the hub assembly out. The ball joint bolts are in slotted holes which actually give roughly .5 degrees of camber adjustability.
So even though people say you can only adjust toe, they are wrong. You have a little adjustment of camber too.
I recently did this myself, so I'm not making it up.
And you'll need to reset the toe if you pull the hubs out a little. It will go toe-out when you do this.
 

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Keep It Real
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I use "Powerflex" polyurethane bushings in my control arms and "Bonrath" polyurethane bushings for my front upper strut and rear upper spring mounts, what a dramatic improvement.
 
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