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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last inspection reveled a couple of issues one being the left front strut was failing so we bought a set loaded (springs already installed) front struts for my wife's 2006 Beetle.
This morning before work I started to do as the books says and prep for the struts removal. I also did a bit of reading on the web and ran across a few people that said for the right side of the vehicle one does not have to remove the axle drive or tie rod to remove the strut. Well of course no year mentioned of the Beetle but I am now at the stage were I can not lower the strut any more, I may have to remove the axle as it is hitting the sub frame (see photos). I am also tiring to make out if the lip of the sub panel is bent up.
Question one is there a way to continue without removing the axle and qestion two if not how is the right axle removed, book is pretty sparse on that subject.


Thanks folks
 

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That side is much harder to remove because the axle does rest on the subframe. I remove the three bolts from the ball joint, then you can pull the ball joint from the lower control arm and move the entire knuckle out of the way. Some remove the top bolt of the ball joint instead of the bottom three, whatever one you choose gives the same results.

Are you using a strut spreader? Using one allows you to take the strut from the knuckle with your bare hands instead of using a hammer and pounding on the knuckle.

Golf/Jetta/Beetle from those years are all the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a strut spring compressor so today I was going to try to compress the spring on the strut and see if tat gives me the option. I was trying to avoid any need to have the front end aligned later. Not fond of beating on the knuckle. If the spring compressor does not work I will give what you suggest a go. The left went in nicely but the bushing on the top is much bigger than the one taken off but I am assuming that is due to the bushing being compressed since 2006, just hope the front of the Beetle is not higher than the back of the car.
The struts seem to be very good in a full match to the originals.
Thanks TheJarhead for the information.
 

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I don’t think the compressor will gain you much clearance, but you might be able to get it. I did put my weight on the lower control arm once and got the strut out but I think I still had to loosen the ball joint upon reassembly. If you take the top nut of the ball joint off, you will not need to get an alignment. The secret is just keep turning the nut when it tops out against the cv joint, the continued turning will force the ball joint apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah the spring compressor was just in the way regardless just not enough room to work.
I ended up removing the the inner axle from the trans as the outer nut on the bearing was just super tight. Also did a you suggested a removed the three bolts from the lower ball joint, leaving the tie rod connected. Supported the complete assy with a small jack and inched it back and it dropped to were I could remove and install the new strut. All together now and not one wired sound when driving 😬.
Next week the rear shocks, boy I must be a sucker for punishment.
Thanks for the help Jar Head.
Cheers
 

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Rear shocks are easy. Two upper bolts and one bottom, take all 3 out and step on the lower spring perch with your foot, the lower part of the shock will come back up out of the bracket through which it fell after the bolts were removed, pushing down with your foot gives it clearance for that bracket.

Congratulations on doing the fronts. A job well done!
 
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