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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
started car this morning......took the usual 4-5 times of key turning before it finally started. Went to take off and it's running badly...have to press the gas like theres an egg on it, or car will stall. Finally got to where I needed to be.

I knew you all would ask me what the codes were.....so when I got home, I disconnected the battery and touched the postive and negative together. Hooked everything back up and cleared all the codes with my neighbors scanner. Now it won't start. Turns over, sputters a bit but won't start. Took the fuel regulator hose off and sprayed cleaner into the manifold....car started right up, then died as soon as spray was used up....so I know I have a fuel issue. Pulled the fuel line for the regulator and tunred the key on.....a small amount of fuel drips out.....then turn car over and more fuel comes out, but seems very low pressure for a fuel injected engine. How much pressure is supposed to be there?

I can hold my finger over the fuel line while cranking? That doesn't seem right. I pulled the backseat and the pump is running.

Is there a fuse or relay for the injectors?
 

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Most fuel injection systems require 50 PSI, some a slight higher. 50 PSI is quite the mess when the fuel gauge test port is pressed. Filter is cheap and easy to replace, just be CAREFUL about the plastic fuel lines and connectors, you DO NOT want to break them.

Pump is easy to change. www.bmaparts.com and used discount code SPECE30 for 5% off. Good quality OE pump & level sender for a decent price and ships quick.
 

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The manual says:

(after removing the fuel line and connecting a fuel pressure tester/gauge)

Start the engine and run at idle speed.
Measure fuel pressure.
Specified value: approximately 2.5 bar positive pressure

2.5 bar (converted: 36.25 psi)

If specified value is achieved:
– Disconnect the vacuum hose -1- from the fuel pressure regulator
-2-.
Fuel pressure must rise to approximately 3.0 bar (converted 43.5 psi) positive pressure.
– Switch off ignition.

If specified value is achieved:
– Check for leaks and residual pressure. Observe pressure drop
on pressure gauge.
After 10 minutes there must be a residual pressure of at least
2.0 bar (converted 29 psi).

Note: when I was checking my fuel pump; the pressure was good (when the car was running) but when I shut the car off, it could NOT maintain pressure and went to zero. I was having starting problems in the morning; if I cycled the key several times, the pressure would build up enough to start but the fuel pump was leaking pressure. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem was resolved.
 

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Sure, at this point; I would hook up a fuel pressure testing tool/gauge and see what it is reading, as noted above. It should be able to maintain the pressure; that was my problem, it wouldn't maintain the pressure (when turned off) and I think it eventually, would just probably end up not starting at all (it was getting progressively harder to start).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I unplugged the fuel line and plugged in the gauge. When I turned the key to "ON".....the pump ran, but guage didn't move.

I turned the key to "Start" and cranked it over, got to 10psi, then imediately dropped to 0psi, when key was turned to "Off".

Then I sprayed some cleaner in to the manifold so I could get it to start. Turned motor over and got it to start, gauge climbed to about 11psi, then dropped as soon as car stalled.

Sounds like a new pump is needed, all concur?
 

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Sounds very similar to my bad feel pump experience; mine got to a higher PSI when running but it went to zero When turned off. I would replace the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I replaced the fuel pump and what a difference! Started on first crank.

Now a new problem.....it shudders at idle and on acceleration. The CEL is blinking. When car gets over 3000 RPM it seems to clear out. If you hold the RPMs at a steady 2000, it will shudder, then clear for a quick second, then go back to shuddering.

I drove to the local Autozone to get codes read. There were only two...P0102 and P0301. The P0102 may be a false code because I had the car running without the MAF plugged in. I tried to get AZ to clear the codes, but they said they couldn't do that anymore. He said they got fined??

Any ideas?

Thanks for all the previous help!!
 

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Ross Tech Wiki:

16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low
16486/P0102/000258 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16685/P0301/000769 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
16685/P0301/000769 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Your MAF code; sounds like what you said (ignore). Misfire cylinder #1; I would check the #1 plug (pull, inspect for condition), plug wire (inspect for damage, test for resistance, manual should have specs/procedure) and check the coil for hairline cracks (many here, diagnose the coil by visually inspecting; then, by spraying with water to see if it is affected and causes the engine to run worse) and lastly, the manual has testing procedures for the injectors (if you think #1 isn't getting fuel).
 

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Pull plug #1 and inspect it. Because you had starting problem, you likely got the plug pretty wet. Not sure how long you have driving the car since the misfire occurred. Coils and spark plugs on a turbo motor are critical. Spark plug gap is also important, cannot be too big, under pressure from the turbo, a small plug gap requires much less secondary Voltage.

You mentioned the codes could not be cleared. This means you likely live in CA. YOU MUST have your OWN OBDII scan tool so you can sort issues out on your car. You do not need VCDS, even a decent quality generic OBDII scan tool will be handy. It will pay for itself the first time you need it.

See the first link below in my signature regarding OBDII scan tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Changed #1 plug and made sure it was gapped correctly. Check and made sure it was getting spark and it was. I think it may be an injector issue. It's kinda funny, my New Beetle sounds like an Old beetle through the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Codes:p1237, P0301, P1240

At idle the engine shudders, especially in gear. At idle, if I pull the plug off of the #1 injector, it does not change how it runs. If I bring the RPMs up to about 3,000 and pull the plug off the injector, it definately loses power.

Just as a reference I pulled the plug off injector #4 at idle and the car almost died, I had to replace quickly before it did.

I'm not sure if I'm getting too much fuel or not enough, which is causing the miss.

When it's missing badly, the CEL will blink. Then it kinda clears up and the CEL stays on steady if I keep the RPMs consistant. Once I put it under heavy load, it starts to miss badly and the CEL starts blinking.

It never did this with the weak fuel pump I had in the car. Now with good fuel pressue, this starts.

What are the symptoms of a bad pressure regulator?
 

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17648/P1240 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit

17648/P1240 - Ross-Tech Wiki


16685/P0301/000769 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected


16685/P0301/000769 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17645/P1237 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit

17645/P1237 - Ross-Tech Wiki

From the above links/codes; it is plainly apparent; that you have a injector issue in that cylinder. I would test the injector and the wiring to the injector; the bentley manual has testing procedures for both. If you switched injectors; the cylinder that you switched to, had the same codes or the known good injector, still had the problem... then it would confirm if it was the wiring or the injector itself.

Another tool; that you can usually get from a auto parts store is a "noid" light; this shows that the wiring to the injector is getting the electrical signal to run the injector. This is a easy "visual" way to confirm; that the wiring/ecm is working as it should. If you follow the testing procedures in the manual; you probably don't need these, however.

https://www.google.com/search?q=noid+light&oq=noid+light&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3045j0&sourceid=chrome&espvd=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=93&psj=1&q=noid+light&tbm=shop

At this point; you are down to either:

1. wiring/ecm is bad (no electrical pulses to the injector)

2. the injector itself is bad

You are very close; start testing and see which one is the problem! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I did some thinking....I realized that P1237 and P1240 are most likely due to me pulling the connector on the injector with the car running.

I reset the codes and now i am only getting P0301. After reading some folks having issues with the Denso plugs I just installed, I went out to buy another. They did not have the NGK I wanted, but did have an Autolite. I figured I'd try that just for laughs. Installed the Autolite and seemed to run better, but still getting the P0301 code.

When installing the plugs the first time, I noticed a small cut in the rubber where it meets the metal on the spark plug boot. I didn't think much of it, I just wrapped it with electrical tape to keep the moisture out.

Well when I installed the Autolite, I decided to take another look at the plug wire. I unwrapped the tape and ripped the rubber open a bit more so I could see inside. The plastic or ceramic, whatever is in there was all cracked. Seems my overzealous neighbor, who used to own the car and was helping me replace the plugs, used a pair of pliers to grip and remove the plug wire from the spark plug, crushing the plastic/ceramic inside.

So I'm hoping this is causing my misfire. I ran the car at night, but didn't see any arcing. I'm thinking the problem is within the cracked boot, so that's why I coudn't see any arcing.

Will replace plug wires and let you know how it turns out.
 

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I'd say you're on the right track to solving the problem. From what I've read, it's good to use the right plug wire tool on these vehicles, otherwise you'll damage the wires, just like you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took a stroll by the VW dealership down the road, found the back door to the shop.....I knew the Service Managers would not help.....walked in and found a Tech that looked like he knew what he was doing and asked if he had any old wires hanging around from a recent tune up.....low and behold, he had a set sitting right on his tool box. he took the "A" plug wire out and handed to me and said hope it works.

Well changed out the wire and she runs like a dream!!!

But now I need to fix my airbag light. I was so consumed with the CEL, I can't remember if the airbag light has been on all this time, or just recently popped on.

My standard (not Vagcom) scanner shows no codes..
 

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Glad you finally fixed your problem and diagnosed it correctly!

For the airbag light; you are going to need to use a VW compatible scanner, on the low end you can get one for under $40 (search amazon for "vag 405") and then there is the high end VCDS from Ross Tech. A typical airbag problem; is the drivers side belt buckle, usually runs about $70 from your local VW dealer. As you have just experienced; having the right tool, will help you diagnose the problem correctly.

For the future; you might get the correct spark plug wire removal tool and that way, you don't damage them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=VW+2.0L+spark+plug+wire+removal+tool&es_sm=93&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=I91OUoCUC6WejAKzk4HoDQ&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1163&bih=851&dpr=1

https://www.google.com/search?q=VW+2.0L+spark+plug+wire+removal+tool&es_sm=93&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=I91OUoCUC6WejAKzk4HoDQ&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1163&bih=851&dpr=1#es_sm=93&psj=1&q=VW+spark+plug+wire+removal+tool&tbm=shop

Good luck and keep us updated, as your troubleshooting and repair, progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
looked under the seat and found the brown & yellow wires cut/broken that go from seat to buckle. Thought thats why my airbag light was lit....but from reading another post....these are not involved with the airbag circuit.

Where else should I look?
 
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