VW Beetle Forum banner

Worth saving?

  • Yes

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,828 Posts
The first thing, would be to get a accurate diagnosis; repair costs, can be a open question, as you don't know every possible issue until things are take apart. What testing has been done? How do you know; the head gasket is cracked? What is the "issue with the oil"; you have been having? There are many other areas; that can cause oil leaks and this can cause you to have to keep topping the oil off (valve cover/chain tensioner gasket, oil cooler gasket, very common leaking issues, can cause relatively substantial oil loss). Has the head been removed? You might want to do a combustion leak test, a compression/leakdown test and confirm, the problem, that way you can be sure of things, before spending the money on a head gasket repair.

Having a repair shop, do the work; can get expensive, is it possible for you do the work? This would lower the repair costs but you would need to do things yourself, more work, then just dropping it off and having someone else handle things.

A special car, that has sentimental value; is something to consider saving but financial concerns, are always a issue. At this age and miles; one can expect a number of issues, coming up, that will require repairs. Most of us, keep repairing these cars; many are not worth much these days but that is not, the reason we keep fixing them, we want to keep driving them and that is why we keep spending the money on repairs, keep them on the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,828 Posts
Actually, the oil pressure light; coming ON is, potentially, a BIG deal! Their blase, attitude about that; is not a very good sign, that they care or are a good place, to take your older VW (did they confirm the oil pressure was in spec?). Checking for oil pressure, worn bottom end bearings and a possible clogged oil pickup tube, are all normal things to check. As to the head replacement; you can get a advance exchange rebuilt head and that is a viable option. I don't know, what our "budget" is or how much, you want to spend, to get it back on the road. One philosophy, is it is better; to work with "devil you know", rather then, try to find a cheap $2000-$4000 car with potentially, a bunch of unknown issues. You are starting to creep, towards 200k; so, one has to expect repairs, along the way of ownership, of (at this point), a semi vintage, 18 year old VW. The labor, is typically; what costs the most, when doing semi major work of this kind! :( Life choices, how much money, you have to spend; if a older vehicle, fits your current needs, are all issues to consider, only you can, "count the costs", see if it works or doesn't work for you. (tough call).

I just did a head on 2001 Audi TT with e 1.8T; we got a rebuild head, from theses guys and it worked out fine. https://www.shop.headsonly.com/VW-A...UILT-CYLINDER-HEAD-VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI-18-20V.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,828 Posts
There are some known possible electrical issues, that can cause the oil pressure light to come on; that being said, start with a oil pressure test, confirm it is in spec. If it is, then you can move on; to troubleshooting, possible electrical problems (coolant temp sensor, electrical circuit share the same with the oil pressure light in the speedo, which can throw a false positive). Report back and we can go from there. Good work and it is good to hear; you are back on the road! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,828 Posts
My oil pressure light, came on randomly; I can't remember, the exact scenarios, it was awhile ago. In my case, I pulled the oil pressure sending unit; hooked up a oil pressure test gauge/kit and I was in spec. You can also, drive around and tie wrap, the gauge to your windshield and that way, you can monitor it, try to replicate the conditions, where the oil pressure light, would normally kick on. After that, I made a little tester, where I was able to go to a hardware store; bought some brass pipes, fittings and make a diy tester, to add pressure to the sending unit and it passed with flying colors (hooked up a test light/battery; light came on, at the specified psi rating the sending unit was rated at). I replace the sending unit anyway and then, found the electrical issue with the cooling light flashing blue and the blue coolant light mode, not turning off. I also scanned for trouble codes and I was getting a coolant temp sensor, "short to ground" code. One of the electrical terminal ends; at the plug for the coolant temp sensor was broken off. I went to my VW dealer; bought new terminal ends, new plug and coolant temp sensor. Interestingly enough, the VW parts dept person; told me, they have this problem all the time and replaced everything. I did the repairs and the problem was resolved, never came back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,828 Posts
As to the drivability issues and turbo surging problem, I struggled with a turbo lag/hesitation, surge,etc., for a long time and it really had me stumped (many parts were in "soft failure mode", working but not up to the performance level they needed to be at). Check out this thread; for my troubleshooting, testing, repairs and parts I ended up replacing (defective parts: N75, DV, N249, etc).

 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top