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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking the engine speed sensor could be caused by the coolant temperature problem. Is that possible?

My Haynes manual says that other things such as drivebelt tension could be the cause of my cooling system problems. I'll bet that's my problem! The serpentine belt drives the alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor.

I'll check it out today.

BTW Is anybody out there? Just nod if you can hear me. Is there anyone at home? :)
 

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The P0322 code points to a faulty Speed sensor or Crankshaft positioning sensor.

OBD2 - OBDII Code P0322 - Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal | Engine-Codes.com

Possible causes

- Ignition/Distributor engine speed sensor harness circuit is open or shorted
- Ignition/Distributor engine speed sensor poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition/Distributor engine speed sensor
- Faulty Crankshaft Position sensor
- Low battery charge
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)


P3081 is the error code for the engine not reaching correct operating temperature. It could be an issue with the thermostat or the ECT (coolant temperature sensor) valve.
Could also be the Thermal switch for the radiator fans. I doubt this has anything to do with your drivebelt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thermostat

The car was clunking into first and reverse so I took it in with the check engine light on. 3081 and 0322 were reported by my code reader. The mechanic identified the clunking problem being caused by the passenger side axle which finally failed. I had replaced the driver's side axle myself with an aftermarket axle from Pep Boys for $100. The mechanic pointed out that the axle from Pep Boys was too short and the CV boots on that were cracked too now.

He replaced both for $707 and told me I still had problems. I knew about the codes 3081 and the 0322 so I picked up a thermostat at AutoZone on the way home last night.

Now the light is out and no codes are displayed on my code reader so I'm going to return the thermostat.

What was the special thermostat that everyone recommended on here anyways?
 

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$$$

$707? ouch! Sorry to hear that fellow newbeetle member. Germanparts.com has those at a good price and you can install yourself to save, well next time for you I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, I know...$707

I think I'm on a list. He typed my name into the computer before he came up with that diagnosis fee.

The first guy I went to wanted $100 to diagnose it.

The guy I went with wanted $125.

All I had to do was jack it up and see the axles. But would German Auto Parts have been able to get the right axles? The shop I went with said there were difficulties. They used the VIN #.

It works now and the check engine light went out! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The code is back! :(

The check engine light came on again when I went to McDonalds to pick up a free fish fillet sandwich with a coupon I had. It was 3081 again!

Here's the replacement procedure for an engine coolant temperature sensor on a VW Jetta: P3081 Trouble Code Volkswagen Coolant Temperature Sensor - YouTube

My car runs fine. Maybe I'll order a new one and replace it at my leisure. :)
 

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I feel like we've suggested a new CTS to you in the past a number of times...
 

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yes. make sure you get the oring and clip as well.
 

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Here is one from ECS Tuning with clip and O-Ring Gasket for $4.99

Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Search > Coolant Sensor > ES#2535452 Coolant Temperature Sensor With O-Ring & Clip - 4 Pin - 059919501AKTU

Or if you prefer Genuine VW Parts:

Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Search > Coolant Sensor > ES#264174 Coolant Temperature Sensor With O-Ring & Clip - 4 Pin - 078919501CKT

Either one will work fine. I would change it ASAP. They do cause issues not only with the Check engine light coming on.

Good Luck!
 

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I already went with the one from Germanautoparts.com: GermanAutoParts.com

I parked the car because of the stalling in the middle of traffic. It looks like an easy replacement.

:)
Takes about 2.375 minutes but only if you take a .375 minute break :D
Just make sure the engine isn't hot. If possible let the car sit overnight then pop of the coolant cap to release any excess pressure. Have some paper towels ready to catch any coolant that escapes even after the engine is cool. Disconnect the 4 pin sensor. Take off the plastic clip, pull the sensor out, soak up the mess you made with the paper towels, remove the old O-Ring, replace with new O-Ring, pop in the new sensor, replace the clip, reconnect the electrical connector and Voila, all done. ;) Very easy to do but can be messy so be careful where you splash the coolant.
 
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