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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i had the timing belt and water pump replaced. my catalytic converter was stolen while it sat for a few months waiing to have that done. anyways, i got that done and drove it 3 times to worki and back with no issues other than i have to jump it off to crank it, which has me baffled because its not the battery or alternator. wello, the shifter linkage bushions broke the third time i drove itso i spent another 2 weeks parked trying to get that done, but finally i fashioned that back together and slapped the console back on there, checked the fluids and drove it to work with no issues, it even started fine. on the way home though, the mil started flashing and it started running real rough and less power , so i pulled over and googled what it could be... sat there a few hours but no rescue came for me so i had to limp her home, luckily i had the jumper box with me because now its doing that again. the mil didnt flash again until i pulled out on the road and same deal, running rough and less power, it felt like the motor and transmision was having a wrestling match under there! there is way toomuch movement of my engine and i think it is going to fall out. i have a buetooth code scanner thing, but i honestly dont know what to do with mot of the features this thing has. i have the codes though and can try to add the data log if i can find the file... but i know for sure it has p0300 po303p0304, so cylinders 3and 4 a misfiring, and theres a whole lot about o2 sensors and stuff that was already readng that pertain to the cat being gone, i also dont have the fuel cap, and there was already codes before the timing belt replacement about secondary air pump and others that said possible 'short to ground' under explanation but it has never run rough like that and ever since that i have not drove it except for running a fe times just while i was tryig to get help working on it, but nobody will do anything more than tell me to sell it and walk away, or that it is fine andi dont know what im talkig about. so, when i first start it, it seems ok, and mil is only on, but if when i go up the drive by the time i hit 3rd, something happens, rough running, missimg, motor rocking, mil flashing. drop back down 2nd and after a second it calms down aggain. while beginning to check into some of this stuff, learning as i go, i discover MORE ****! thdipstick tube was stuck and broken peieces of plastic were stll there up under the whastever that is, manifold?? i have a couple pics to start with that i need hlp identifying stuff and direction on.. i just need to know that i dont have destroyed heads or blown head gasket, or aother catastrophic fails, i give up on restoring and upkeeping this darn car, i simply cannot do anything with it and am havung the absolute worst strung of bad circumstances piled up all at once and i cant get anywhere bcause this stupid freaking car wont stop breaking and its too hard for me to get it worked on, and i live in a nowhere ass town with nothing available for resources so i am just stuck and homeless and rideless and cant get a ride to work, cant get a ride to get parts that i cant afford! that being said.. i will sell it if anybody would buy it!
coolant leakingfrom here i think?

Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Gas Auto part

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Tread Synthetic rubber

Automotive tire Bumper Rim Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Bumper Gas

Hood Automotive tire Tread Tire Bumper
Hood Automotive tire Tread Tire Bumper
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Bumper Gas
what is this part?
Hood Automotive tire Tread Tire Bumper
Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Gas Auto part
Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Rim Gas Motor vehicle
 

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These cars can be a real challenge to keep on the road; as you are experiencing!

That being said, if you want to get things fixe and get it running, to be usable, you will need to diagnose the current running issues (miss firing)?

First, I would do a full scan for codes and post any you find; if you can’t figure out your bluetooth based scan tool, many auto parts stores can scan it for you or rent you a scanner for free.

Knowing when to get rid of a car or when to fix it can be a tough decision; historically, many of us don’t have the money to buy a new car and so are stuck with what we have; as the saying goes, “necessity is the mother of invention”, forcing us to figure out how to fix these pesky VW’s.

I don’t know where you’re at in your thinking or what your financial situation is; plus the technical aspects of the 1.8T and getting the car back on the road, making it reliable, so you can live your life and get to work, get around , make $, pay the bills, etc, etc.

These can be enjoyable cars to drive; when they are running right but after 20+’years and many times, lack of maintenance, long term neglect, it may take some effort, money and time, to make it a solid daily driver for you.

Let us know, what you were thinking and what do you want to do moving forward, we will try to help you diagnose problems and work through the list of things that need to be fixed and hopefully get you back on the road.

Fixing things yourself, can be a real challenge and a definite learning curve. Sometimes you just have to do what it takes yourself, become your own vw technician and figure things out or if you have the money have a repair shop getting it running right, so you have a basic foundation of a reliable vehicle. Then, you can do other easier or less expensive, maintenance and repairs as needed, (yourself) in as time goes on.

The 1.8T engine, can be a challenge to figure out, at first and has a learning curve to keep them running well but it is possible! If you are willing and dedicated to keep the maintenance up, use oem parts, keep to a solid diagnostic procedures, you can find problems, fix things through a process of elimination and “diy” when repairs are needed. If the car is in a unknown status; you might do baseline testing and confirm, compression, fuel pressure, the charging system is in spec and other things are good, to confirm the engine is ok.

Note: We have all been where you are currently at but things can be fixed, having a VW go down, be without transpo, can be trying, exhausting, frustrating experience!

Let us know, what you want to do and we can try to help, what the next steps, to diagnose the problems would be. Thanks.


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The error codes in the 300’s are misfire codes which can be as simple as a disconnected vacuum hose or loose plug wire, but is often old plugs or a bad coil pack. Sometimes of course it can be something else,

Get a full scan done and post all your codes.
 

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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are codes from the 2nd day after it messed up, this is before driving it but it had been idling for a little while it never started misfiring/running rough like I said until I try to drive it and when it hits 3rd gear it goes south.
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Volkswagen

============1==============
P1118
Raw code: 1118
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Manifold Absolute Temperature Circuit Low Input
Volkswagen: Engine Coolant Temp. Signal Out-Of-Range High; O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1 - Sensor2 Open

============2==============
P1198
Raw code: 1198
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Pump Rotor Control Underfueling
Volkswagen: O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1 - Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction

============3==============
P0140
Raw code: 0140
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1 - no activity detected
Volkswagen: HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2

============4==============
P1592
Raw code: 1592
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
Volkswagen: Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor / manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - implausible ratio

============5==============
P0411
Raw code: 0411
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Secondary air injection (AIR) system - incorrect flow detected
Volkswagen: Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System

============6==============
P1425
Raw code: 1425
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: EGI Glow Plug Secondary Failure
Volkswagen: Tank Vent. Valve Short to Ground

============7==============
P1435
Raw code: 1435
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: A/C Refrigerant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance
Volkswagen: Sec. Air Inj. Sys. Pump Relay Circ. Short to ground

============8==============
P1421
Raw code: 1421
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Catalyst Damage
Volkswagen: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage; Sec. Air Inj. Valve Circ Short to Ground

============9==============
P1473
Raw code: 1473
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Fan Secondary High With Fan(s) Off
Volkswagen: EVAP Emission Contr. LDP Circ Open Circ.

============10==============
P0102
Raw code: 0102
ECU: OBD-II
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - low input
Vol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·


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😳 that doesn't sound good! But, like I said the catalytic converter got stolen, they cut it off and I haven't even had pipe put on there in its place yet because everything else keeps breaking. Would these codes not be related to that?
 

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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·


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Where do I find this relay? I need visuals 😫 I have looked up diagrams but I need to someone to point stuff out for me like on my actual motor, everytime I search stuff and pull up images I get the 2.0 or a newer year model or something, I can't find any images to go by that ma5ch my actual car..
 

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I would start by getting the exhaust fixed. Then clear all of your codes and see what comes back. Also, I know you said the battery and alternator are good - what voltages are you seeing? A failing battery can cause all sorts of issues as the electronics in VWs really don't like to be low on power at all.
 
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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am not worrying with the problems that I know we're already there, the ones to be expected from catalytic converter being gone... I just need it to run so I can sell it and get something else because I can't even get a ride to the parts store, so I cannot work because I cannot get to work , so I don't have an income and very limited in pocket.
 

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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The issue I have been addressing was what happened last time I drove...I had driven it back n forth to work 3 times before the shifter broke, that left me parked for 2 weeks, fixed that just barely in time to make it late for an appointment then to work and on my way home from work that night the mil started flashing, it's never done that before it's been on stating on but not flashing, and it started running real rough so I pulled over and tried to get help for a few hours before limping it home, all together was maybe 6 miles from the time it started flashing to home with the break in between when I pulled over. Since then, which was last Friday night, I have only started it to listen to it and run codes on it the couple times i had someone to come help me work on it, but nobody knows a dam thing about this car so I have resorted to doing it myself. Because the mil does not blink but just stays on and it idles better than 'that time' I tried to drive it a little to see if it had maybe cleared up whatever it issue was and it started again once I hit 3rd gear. Have tried this twice, same thing each time. But, I am out here working on it right now, was going to pull the coils and plugs and clean everything up check for loose or broken wires etc, and there is too much oil, I did that! It was about a quart low I dumped a a whole bottle in there the Friday right before i left in it! As the pictures show, I noticed that it is leaking coolant but don't know where exactly, and there Is oil everywhere too but I had assumed that was from way before all of this when my plastic cover thing had come off and took the oil cap with it, and it blew all of the oil out of the motor resulting in my clutch going out, but luckily it must bot have been like that long cuz there was no engine damage but I never cleaned everything up all nice like so all that down in there stuff was already oily, but the green coolant was new! And I had to fill it with coolant also because it was super low, but it wasn't low when i drove it and there's none on the ground??? Please tell me I did not blow the head gasket because my dum ass put too much oil!!
 
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