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Well, lots of different things, problems going on at once; i would start by removing enough oil, to get the oil levels correct (drain to a clean oil pan; then you can put some back in, if needed).

Next, would be the coolant leak and levels. Normally, VW’s use their own specific g12/13 coolant; that is pink or violet in color. If you mix the typical green and pink coolant types; it can cause a thick coagulated reddish mixture, which shiws up in the coolant bottle and this can cause, overheating and cooling system problems. If this happens, the coolant will need ti be drained and the system flushed, cleaned out with dish soap like Dove, fresh water and flushed until all the junk is out, water clear. We can discuss more cleaning details; if this is the case. Fresh coolant would be needed; using one type of coolant and init mixing incompatible types together. Peak sells a vw spec pink coolant; which is a affordable alternative to other German or VW brand coolant.

Available premixed or concentrated; needing to be mixed with distilled water 50/50.


For the coolant leak, a cooling system pressure tester; can help pinpoint the source of the leak.


If no leaks are detected and a head gasket failure is suspected; you can rent a combustion leak detection kit, from a auto parts store and a compression tester as well. This would help you determine; if there is a head gasket issue or low compression.





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2000 Volkswagen new beetle 1.8l turbo
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
This is the oil level right now, just took this pic. The next pics im adding with it are just of the whole engine from above hoping yall can see well enough to tell, the engine has moved forward, breakingnthe dipstick tube, yet motor mount is still intact, i have those pics also back up top of thread
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ok so i had the timing belt and water pump replaced. my catalytic converter was stolen while it sat for a few months waiing to have that done. anyways, i got that done and drove it 3 times to worki and back with no issues other than i have to jump it off to crank it, which has me baffled because its not the battery or alternator. wello, the shifter linkage bushions broke the third time i drove itso i spent another 2 weeks parked trying to get that done, but finally i fashioned that back together and slapped the console back on there, checked the fluids and drove it to work with no issues, it even started fine. on the way home though, the mil started flashing and it started running real rough and less power , so i pulled over and googled what it could be... sat there a few hours but no rescue came for me so i had to limp her home, luckily i had the jumper box with me because now its doing that again. the mil didnt flash again until i pulled out on the road and same deal, running rough and less power, it felt like the motor and transmision was having a wrestling match under there! there is way toomuch movement of my engine and i think it is going to fall out. i have a buetooth code scanner thing, but i honestly dont know what to do with mot of the features this thing has. i have the codes though and can try to add the data log if i can find the file... but i know for sure it has p0300 po303p0304, so cylinders 3and 4 a misfiring, and theres a whole lot about o2 sensors and stuff that was already readng that pertain to the cat being gone, i also dont have the fuel cap, and there was already codes before the timing belt replacement about secondary air pump and others that said possible 'short to ground' under explanation but it has never run rough like that and ever since that i have not drove it except for running a fe times just while i was tryig to get help working on it, but nobody will do anything more than tell me to sell it and walk away, or that it is fine andi dont know what im talkig about. so, when i first start it, it seems ok, and mil is only on, but if when i go up the drive by the time i hit 3rd, something happens, rough running, missimg, motor rocking, mil flashing. drop back down 2nd and after a second it calms down aggain. while beginning to check into some of this stuff, learning as i go, i discover MORE ****! thdipstick tube was stuck and broken peieces of plastic were stll there up under the whastever that is, manifold?? i have a couple pics to start with that i need hlp identifying stuff and direction on.. i just need to know that i dont have destroyed heads or blown head gasket, or aother catastrophic fails, i give up on restoring and upkeeping this darn car, i simply cannot do anything with it and am havung the absolute worst strung of bad circumstances piled up all at once and i cant get anywhere bcause this stupid freaking car wont stop breaking and its too hard for me to get it worked on, and i live in a nowhere ass town with nothing available for resources so i am just stuck and homeless and rideless and cant get a ride to work, cant get a ride to get parts that i cant afford! that being said.. i will sell it if anybody would buy it! View attachment 254810
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How much you asking if you do decide to sell?
 

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As to the leak plastic cooling part; if you have a 1.8T, it maybe this part?

COOLANT HOSE FLANGE (NEW BEETLE 1.8T)

VW part # 06A121132AQ

This is typically sold under the aftermarket Dorman brand at stores like Autozone or as a genuine vw part.



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That “three way thingy”, coolant flange looks like it’s leaking as you suspect. It may be the flange itself or one of the hoses or the CTS coolant temperature sensor, that’s the little “thingy” plugged into the top of the flange with the wire coming out of it. A CTS is a known leak point on these cars. That little black clip holds the CTS in place and there is a rubber O ring down inside that actually seals the CTS.

To change it out disconnect the wire, remove the clip pull the CTS straight out and fish the O ring out of the flange with you finger. Of course coolant will be leaking everywhere if you haven’t drained the system. I do see a puddle of green coolant so someone has used aftermarket coolant in you system.

Changing the entire flange itself is a bit more involved but still doable.

When you check your oil, pull the dip stick, wipe the oil off the stick with a paper towel, rag or I’ve even used my fingers in a pinch, then reinsert the dipstick all the way back into the tube and pull it out again. The oil level should be clearly shown on the stick this time.

If the tube is broken the oil level on the stick may not be accurate, as in if the tube allows the dip stick to go down further than it should.

If the engine has shifted forward then the likely culprit is the motor mount underneath the car. It is roughly shaped like a dogbone and is called just that. The dogbone engine mount. Two bolts hold it to the bottom of the engine and two more hold it to the subframe.

Why is there what looks like duct tape on that one hose?
 
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