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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I recently painted my Beetle. When painting I removed the handles and locks from the outside as well as most of the electronic switches (all the ones on the door panel and center dash.)

Now the doors will not open on either side from the inside or out. I was able to open the drivers door by pulling up on the inside lock knob and pulling the outside handle at the same time, however the passenger side won't open this way. When I did finally get the drivers door open, the alarm went off which I have never heard happen. All the cables seem to be attatched (they were on the drivers side, but i cant get the passengers side open without the door being oppen).

One more weird detail: on the passenger side, if I hold the key in the position to lock the door, the window rolls up, and if I turn it to unlock it rolls down.

I do still have all the door panels off on the inside.

Any ideas on what is causing this?
 

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If alarm went off, it means
1) You do have working microswitch that senses if door is open
2) Another microswitch makes car think that car should be locked

Either something wrong with electrical connections, or you've damaged somehow lock.

Do windows work fine? Do lock knobs go up and down with fob or key?
 

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Since we have to assume you have all the connectors re-plugged with their correct mate, and parts don't usually go bad just because they were unplugged, it is safe to say, as someone stated, you damaged something. Or quite possibly, as ppl tend to pull on wires when unplugging connectors, you have pulled a wire or wires loose within a connector. A ground being interupted somewhere can cause all kinds of crazy things to go on with electric. Perhaps, you have lost a ground because of new paint. The other possibility is that someting IS NOT plugged back in somewhere. Also, on some NBs, some things have to be reset when they are powered down, and this doesn't just have to happen because of a battery being disconnected. Check your OM for resetting those items.

As to the mechanical handles and mechanical locks not opening or unlocking the doors, it sounds as if something is either not re-attached or re-attached improperly. Not having explicit knowledge, perhaps a shim, clip, or something else fell out, on removal, unbeknownst to you, and hence didn't get put back in. The best way to find this problem is to view what moves when the lock is turned, or the handle is pulled, and what it moves at that time, and then see what isn't working.

MORAV
 

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Since we have to assume you have all the connectors re-plugged with their correct mate, and parts don't usually go bad just because they were unplugged, it is safe to say, as someone stated, you damaged something. Or quite possibly, as ppl tend to pull on wires when unplugging connectors, you have pulled a wire or wires loose within a connector. A ground being interupted somewhere can cause all kinds of crazy things to go on with electric. Perhaps, you have lost a ground because of new paint. The other possibility is that someting IS NOT plugged back in somewhere.
As far as I get it, OP also has mechanical problems opening the lock even when lock knobs are up. This confuses me.

Also, on some NBs, some things have to be reset when they are powered down, and this doesn't just have to happen because of a battery being disconnected. Check your OM for resetting those items.
Out of curiosity what are those things? I remember I read somewhere about radio, but no matter how long mine battery was disconnected it never asked me for a code.
 

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As far as I get it, OP also has mechanical problems opening the lock even when lock knobs are up. This confuses me.
Confuses me too. Went back and addressed that issue in my post.

Out of curiosity what are those things? I remember I read somewhere about radio, but no matter how long mine battery was disconnected it never asked me for a code.
Radio, remote system, window operation, other items with the Vert (I know this one isn't), not sure what all I have read about, but from the different OMs I've read it varies from year to year (as with your radio apparently), as they added or deleted features. Without reading through all the model year OMs I have, I can't tell you exactly. I've only come across them reading a particular OM, trying to find something to help someone out, it's not that I just sit around reading OMs. But on that note, everyone should read their OM from cover to cover, and if they don't have one, shame on them. Bentley I understand not having, but not having an Owner's Manual!

M.
 

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The windows will roll up/down turning the key in the lock. ;) That is a secret feature. :) Sounds like a microswitch for the alarm going off when you opened the driver's door. As far as the passenger side, :dunno::confused::werd:.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well some of the connectors are still unplugged because the door panels aren't finished. They still need some repair work, because they are broken where the handle is.

Anyways, any idea on how to get the door open or otherwise remove the lock cylinder without opening the door? The strange thing is, once I opened the drivers side the first time, it worked normally afterwards. All the cables were connected as they should have been, ect., but the door just would not open.

Also for the poster that asked, the windows still work fine. Lock knobs are moving when I turn the key in the outside locks and when I take the key out of the ignition, but they may be popping up then right back down. It's difficult to tell.

I'll read through the manual for info on how to reset the alarm. My NB doesn't have a remote but it does apparently have the security features (maybe all do?) and central locking.
 

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I can't see how you can get the door panel off as the door NEEDS to be open in order for you to get to the hex screws that hold it on. Check fuses, but you can't because the door needs to be open :(

Slide rule the lock via the window ? :)

Only other thing i can think off is a paint bubble somewhere has popped when the door was shut. Then sealed, try Booting it from the inside with the door latch pulled if all else fails.
 

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Well some of the connectors are still unplugged because the door panels aren't finished. They still need some repair work, because they are broken where the handle is.

Anyways, any idea on how to get the door open or otherwise remove the lock cylinder without opening the door? The strange thing is, once I opened the drivers side the first time, it worked normally afterwards. All the cables were connected as they should have been, ect., but the door just would not open.

Also for the poster that asked, the windows still work fine. Lock knobs are moving when I turn the key in the outside locks and when I take the key out of the ignition, but they may be popping up then right back down. It's difficult to tell.

I'll read through the manual for info on how to reset the alarm. My NB doesn't have a remote but it does apparently have the security features (maybe all do?) and central locking.
Everything not being plugged back in could easily be the culprit. Some things may be wired in series, and quite possibly some things may need to be "hot" for something else to work.

Consider that most of the electronics in the doors are related to each other in one way or another, i.e. driver's pwr door lock unlocks passenger door and visa versa, door lock key cylinders roll windows up and down, in addition to the window switches, key locking of doors sets alarm, and so on and so forth.

Now that you have disclosed that everything is not hooked back up, I'm fairly certain that you don't have a problem. Why not simply plug everything back in, even if everything is not mounted, and see if it doesn't all work, keeping in mind that motors and actuators may need to be mounted to be grounded (switches don't get grounded).

The windows will roll up/down turning the key in the lock. ;) That is a secret feature.
C'mon OM, not a secret if you read your manual! I wouldn't expect a label on the lock that says "turn to raise/lower windows". It's this feature that allows the app that ECS sells to do this with your remote.

M.
 

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How are you trying to open the passenger's door from inside? Do you still have a mechanical cable properly connected to lock assembly? Have you tried to pull the lever once lock knob is up? If you have trim panel removed, but not the carrier one, I suppose you should have just that cable sticking out. It may be hard to pull. Just don't break anything:)
Is this what you have, but on passenger's side?

Everything not being plugged back in could easily be the culprit. Some things may be wired in series, and quite possibly some things may need to be "hot" for something else to work.
I do confirm (http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/35527-how-door-panel-window-regulator-door-latch-removal-2.html#post663534) that weird things happened unless most of the stuff is plugged back. Though OP has windows working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Doing a test by plugging everything in and giving it a shot tomorrow.

To the above poster, yes, that is what I have right now. I have no handle on the drivers side, so I'm just pulling the cable from the outside and on the inside pulling the little hook. On the trouble side though, the passenger side, I have a door handle so I can't grab the outside cable. It feels like the cable with the hook on the inside is connected but I just can't tell. When I try and pull the hook from the inside while the car is locked, on either side, the lock plungers unlock. So I know they are both connected to something.

I discovered another thing just now. If I mess with the central locks by turning the key in the cylinder on the passenger side that still has the handle, sometimes the lock cable on the drivers side gets messed up, and it will pull out farther than it should and not open. I can only get it to open again by pulling the plunger and the external cable at the same time. Then the operation will go back to "normal".

It's all really confusing. The doors operated normally when I put it all back together but I didn't test the locks. When I drove it for the first time the doors lock when in motion, so that was the first time the car was locked and the start of all my problems.

I might just have to take it to the dealer if plugging everything in doesn't work but with respect to MyOtherRidesAVette, I don't think it will work. The power lock switches were unplugged in the first place and have never worked, and I had no problems before.
 

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There is certainly that possibility. Obviously there were issues, now that you add that the pdl switches never worked and were not hooked up. If was probably not the switches that weren't working but rather they were unplugged because of some underlying issue. Unplugging the pdl switches would indicate another DIYer, always the potential for inheritable problems. What else might be bypassed or jury-rigged instead of properly fixed.

Don't go as far as hooking them up, but only back to the point at which you started your project.

M.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got around to hooking everything back up, no dice... :(

I'm pretty sure the problem is with the lock module but I can't get it out without having the door open because the bolts that hold it in are inside the sill. Great design!

How can I get the door open now? I have the inner panel off where I can see the little gold lever that the handle cables pull. Everything moves correctly both when inside and outside handles are pulled- the stupid door just won't open. Advice?
 

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I can't think of anything how lock mechanics can go bad from painting.
Can you feel the spring when pulling inner cable? Perhaps you already saw these pictures? Can you hear mechanics clicking and inner electrical motor rotating when moving lock knob?
I feel like if the cable is still hooked (and you feel the spring), you should pull it harder. When I had mine taken apart it was hard to pull.
I'm not sure if looking into openings with a mirror and flashlight can be of any help.

By the way does driver's side lock work fine now? Mechanical part should work independently of electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
When I move the lock knob I hear something but it's different than when I move the one on the driver's side. It makes a "chug" sound , almost like an engine turning over once by hand but not starting. It's a weird noise.
I've tried pulling so hard I was afraid to break it, I've tried prying the gold lever inside up as far as it will go (until it pushed the outside door handle out even).

It's just confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well marthas door is still stuck shut :( so we havent put the outside door handle on the drivers side because we dont want that to get stuck to. Im starting to save some money and we are going to go to the dealer soon.. Im just soo ready to have her back to normal!
 

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what you can do is pull the outer door handel then you see a black piece lift this piece and push it towards the door still holding the handel

the problem you have that is that the outside doorlock cable is to far out and then he wil not open






greetings the dutch vag doorlock master:D
 

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I don't get it, doc. If you pry that plastic cable cap out of the handle it will retract inside and will be lost. I thought it is impossible to remove door handle without removing cylinder stub piece which is impossible since door is locked.
 
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