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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the following codes: P0103, P0422, P1127

I changed out the MAF about 2k miles ago, the pre-cat O2 sensor at the same time, and have had these codes for about 6k miles.

It idles rough, it lags, it is jumpy when it warms up and gets lower than usual gas mileage. I would just pay to have it all replaced, Cat, MAF, and both o2 sensors, but cannot afford to pay someone else to just change everything out.

Is there anychance that one of the codes means that there is a leak in a tube instead of it saying the MAF is faulty??

I just do not know what to do. I feel like I have done everything and it is still broken.
 

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Canadian New Member
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951 Posts
I have the following codes: P0103, P0422, P1127

I changed out the MAF about 2k miles ago, the pre-cat O2 sensor at the same time, and have had these codes for about 6k miles.

It idles rough, it lags, it is jumpy when it warms up and gets lower than usual gas mileage. I would just pay to have it all replaced, Cat, MAF, and both o2 sensors, but cannot afford to pay someone else to just change everything out.

Is there anychance that one of the codes means that there is a leak in a tube instead of it saying the MAF is faulty??

I just do not know what to do. I feel like I have done everything and it is still broken.
After you replaced the MAF did you reset the CEL..???
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After some research, I think it may be a leak in the vacuum hose. Problem is, I do not know what a vacuum hose looks like, does anyone have an image or a link to a photo of the vacuum hose that leads to the MAF or from the MAF to the intake?

Is this difficult to replace?
 

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Canadian New Member
Joined
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951 Posts
After some research, I think it may be a leak in the vacuum hose. Problem is, I do not know what a vacuum hose looks like, does anyone have an image or a link to a photo of the vacuum hose that leads to the MAF or from the MAF to the intake?

Is this difficult to replace?
Check-out this other post to see a pic of what a VW vacuum line looks like..Car cuts out while driving...
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Okay, I looked at it. I am trying to decide if I can undertake changing out the vacuum lines with new silicone ones? Does anyone have thoughts on this?

Is it difficult to do? Do you think the vacuum lines have anything to do with my problem??
 

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Canadian New Member
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951 Posts
Okay, I looked at it. I am trying to decide if I can undertake changing out the vacuum lines with new silicone ones? Does anyone have thoughts on this?

Is it difficult to do? Do you think the vacuum lines have anything to do with my problem??
Very easy to DIY..... You can do it!!! Could be,a good place to start.... :cool:
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ridiculous

I know this is a really outdated post - BUT you will not believe what was causing the majority of the problems.

I was inspecting all of the hoses and the connections to the air filer, MAF and other air system components and found a screw poking out of the back of the air filter compartment. thought - this is weird and got a mirror and a flashlight out to take a look under the lid and compartment.

The airfilter compartment was not sealed. The screw, when replaced after changing the filter 6 months prior, had bent the bottom screw hole and did not rest in it. Effectively screwing itself into nothing and therefore not sealing the air filter compartment.

I bent the bit back and rescrewed it in. Drove the car around town for 30 mins and realized that i had instantly fixed the problem. absurd right? I knew I felt a leak somewhere in the vicinity but I thought it had to do with the vacuum hoses next to it!!!

Not tooooo terribly upset about replacing all that stuff because it had to be done but i am really glad I didn't buy a second new MAF and a second new o2 sensor.

Ruby drives perfectly now!!
 

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553 Posts
I know this is a really outdated post - BUT you will not believe what was causing the majority of the problems.

I was inspecting all of the hoses and the connections to the air filer, MAF and other air system components and found a screw poking out of the back of the air filter compartment. thought - this is weird and got a mirror and a flashlight out to take a look under the lid and compartment.

The airfilter compartment was not sealed. The screw, when replaced after changing the filter 6 months prior, had bent the bottom screw hole and did not rest in it. Effectively screwing itself into nothing and therefore not sealing the air filter compartment.

I bent the bit back and rescrewed it in. Drove the car around town for 30 mins and realized that i had instantly fixed the problem. absurd right? I knew I felt a leak somewhere in the vicinity but I thought it had to do with the vacuum hoses next to it!!!

Not tooooo terribly upset about replacing all that stuff because it had to be done but i am really glad I didn't buy a second new MAF and a second new o2 sensor.

Ruby drives perfectly now!!
So glad to hear you found the problem. It can be very frustrating at times to have a problem uyou cannot pinpoint.
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Another Update...

One more thing - Make sure you reconnect the hoses securely, I started having problems last week - stalling, hesitation in 5th, and bucking in second when low in RPMS. Que freak out.

Buuuut a hose simply popped off. I don't know what it is called, but here is a photo. It must not have been attached properly when I replaced the air filter case awhile back and solved the problems. :D Popped it back on and triple checked the connector, all is good so far. We will see.
 

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708 Posts
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ High Input
P0422 Main Catalyst,Bank1 Below Threshold
P1127 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Rich
 
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