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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2000 NB 2.0L 5speed 58K mi back in December 2011. Since then, I have had a MULTITUDE of issues. Finally, after it being broken down for a month, I took it to the mechanic. I've had the car back for about 3 weeks, and it's still throwing trouble codes at me.

I have had code P1127 appearing for about 2 1/2 weeks. I brought it to the mechanic who couldn't find anything. They reset the code, and it came back after about 15 miles of driving. My dad (50 years backyard mechanic experience) told me to drive it and see if it throws more codes. I've driven 80 miles total, and finally I have TWO MORE pending codes. I've spent $1k in repairs since January. I adore my car, but I want to drive it without the damn CEL on!!! Any help out there??

Here are the codes I have now:

P1127 exhaust not warm, downstream o2 sensor
P0172 (pending) fuel trim too rich bank 1
P0103 (pending) mass or volume flow circuit high input

Repairs to date:
MAF Sensor (replaced twice)
Upstream o2 sensor
Ignition coil pack
Spark plugs & wires
Downstream o2 sensor
Engine mount bolts
Timing belt cover
Coolant temp sensor


Anyone have advice?? I'm so sad....
 

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Hello my wife’s car had same codes when we bought it in 2005 (2000 gl 2.0l 5 sp with 36,000 miles) when she was driving home from the dealer the mil came on I have my own vag scan tool so I pulled the codes I just replaced the mas and her car was ok. Going by the codes the mech. You took your car to was not the Dealer the codes are for obd 2 which is ok if he knows VW, VAG codes are different. Most parts on the car are ok to get from aftermarket stores that mas needs to be dealer part from VW it will cost more but there is a difference between the two, aftermarket mas is well junk I have seen this on more than one VW. So first step replace the mas with DLR. Part then clear codes, I will put money the light will stay out. Second the place you took it to do you know them well or was it the first time there, in my thought is they did not fix your car and you spent alot of money. If you are in Colorado I can clear the codes for you, sorry you went through this I hope you get it worked out.

Kirk ASE master technician + L1 advance engine performance. Worked on cars since 1994 and 5 years at VW
 

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I don't think it is the MAF. Faulty MAF sensors usually underestimate the air entering the system and throw a "Lean" code not a "Rich" code. Check for any Boost Leaks or Vacuum leaks. Those vacuum lines do get brittle and will fail. Replacing them with more durable silicone lines is advisable.

Another overlooked area is your 2 check valves. They are plastic and can crack from the heat and when they do they will cause a rich condition.

Here is a link to ECS tuning for the check valves you may need. Your choice. The aftermarket should be fine and only costs around 12 bucks. The Genuine VW part costs 35.xx bucks. They also have a vacuum repair kit but you can probably do better getting some silicone lines somewhere else.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-New_Beetle--1.8T/Search/Check_Valve/

You do need 2 of these check valves.
 

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Here is a picture of the location of the two check vavles.



Credit for this picture goes to WoodrowUSMC :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Whoa! Thanks guys. I'm a such a noob with all of this. It's only my second car, and previously I drove a boring Saturn that only needed oil changes. It was no fun to drive though. I bought this Bug knowing it'd be a bit of a project (the interior is SO sad!). But this has been a nightmare! I have a full list of the trouble codes I've pulled since I bought the car.

Date Code Description
12/30/2011 P1128 Upstream heated O2 sensors swapped
P0102 Mass/ volume air flow circuit low
P0172 Fuel trim too rich
P1255 Pedal correlation PDS2/ LPDS low
1/6/2012 P1128 Upstream heated O2 sensors swapped
P1255 (Pending) Pedal correlation PDS2/ LPDSlo
1/24/2012 P1255 Pedal correlation PDS2/ LPDS low
P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
P0103 MAF cicruit high input
2/10/212 P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
P1255 Engine coolant temp sensor?
P0103 MAF cicruit high input
2/14/2012 P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
2/21/2012 P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
2/25/2012 P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
2/27/2012 P1127 Exhaust nt warm, downstream O2 sensor
P0172 (Pending) Fuel trim too rich Bank 1
P0103 (Pending) Mass/ volume air flow circuit high input


The P1127 code has been consistently appearing, and this is the one the mechanic couldn't figure out.

I know very little about cars, and I'm trying to learn as much as I can. So, I'm sorry if I sound a little goofy.

I have been researching and have found potential solutions:
1. Fuel injectors
2. Fuel pump/ filter?
3. Break booster line
4. Emissions valve... Are these the valves you're talking about IndyTom??
5. Dirty throttle body

My dad told me to drive it and not worry. Is this a bad idea? I only drive around town, MAYBE 20 miles daily. Safe to cruise?

I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP!
 

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What kind of airfilter are you running? If it is a K&N it is possible that some of the oil has come in contact with the MAF sensor. You can try and remove the MAF sensor and clean it with some MAF sensor cleaner but be careful not to damage the sensor wire.

You can also try and clean your throttlebody with some SEAFOAM.

Here is a link to a video and the proper procedure. It is pretty easy to do.

Sea Foam | How to Use Sea Foam Spray | General Content - Sea Foam Spray

When they replaced your O2 sensors did they check the catylitic converter? If the converter is bad then it will kill those two sensors fairly quickly.

Also are you sure whoever replaced the sensors replaced them with the proper ones? Or if they used universal sensors that they spliced the plug wires correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have no earthly idea what filter I have. Is there a way to check? My dad replaced both o2 sensors. I have been SO annoying about the cat, seeing as he just changed the cat out on my mom's 01 Jetta. He had such a hard time with it (had to grind the old one off), and I know the cost is high to have a mechanic/dealer change the cat. He swears it's fine. Both O2 sensors were purchased from germanautoparts.com. Most of what I have purchased so far has been from GAP. I most definitely purchased the proper o2 sensors.

IndyTom, thank you so much for posting all of this. MUCH appreciation!
 

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WOW, that is quite a list of codes. YIKES!!! :calvin:

Looks like more than just the interior has been neglected.

I still think you have some sort of vacuum leak. Too much air is entering the system and the ECM is compensating by making your engine run rich. I bet your spark plugs will look nice and juicy when you pull them. Sure you can drive it like this but eventually the plugs will foul to the point where the engine will just quit and stall. I would start with checking every single vacuum hose on the car and replacing them. Also check your Turbo Inlet Hose and check if the N75 vavle is seated properly as well as the Diverter Valve. If there is a vacuum leak in these areas you will have unmetered air entering the system and the MAF readings will be incorrect.
Those valves I mentioned are check valves and control vacuum. There are many other valves like your EVAP purge valve but lets not worry about that one just yet.

Start with taking off that plastic engine cover so you have access to all the fun little vacuum lines and start checking and replacing them.

I know it can be frustrating to track these issues down but you got to start somewhere. Ignoring the issue(s) will not make them go away but only make them worse.


PSPSPS: I just see that you have a 2.0 and not a 1.8 so ignore my remarks about the N75 or Diverter Valve. You don't have neither. Also you may have check valves but they would be in a different location then pointed out in my picture.
 

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He had such a hard time with it (had to grind the old one off), and I know the cost is high to have a mechanic/dealer change the cat. He swears it's fine.
Not true. I had a muffler shop replace my cat for less than $200, parts and labor. Aftermarket unit but worked great. Certainly no worse than the OEM unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IndyTom, I should mention that ALL codes up until 2/24/2012 have been addressed. P1127 is the only one that kept coming up. And the last two just appeared today after having driven about 80 miles this weekend. It has new plugs and wires, and they were NASTY when they came out. I keep all the old parts and such just in case. I have a similar repair log to my trouble code log if you're interested.
 

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Wow, that's pretty cheap. Maybe it's cheaper where you are. I live in the land of overpricing. My dad paid $200 for just the cat on mom's 01 Jetta. But thankfully, that's not even an issue right now... HOPEFULLY.

Not true. I had a muffler shop replace my cat for less than $200, parts and labor. Aftermarket unit but worked great. Certainly no worse than the OEM unit.
 

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Check your Air Filter. It is a panel filter in a rectangular looking plastic box. If it is dirty replace the air filter and clean out the box. Then pull the MAF and clean it with some MAF cleaner. (Autozone has some). Replace and see what happenes.

You wouldn't happen to have a vacuum hose that looks like this:

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks IndyTom. I just spoke to my brother, he has rebuilt his 2nd VW, a Jetta, and I also bought the car from the dealer he works for. Since he knows the vehicle history, he told me to drive it. He mentioned that it COULD be the cat, and told me what to listen for. I'm gonna give what you mentioned a try also. I appreciate your help. I may be contacting you soon again for advice.
 
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