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after reading this post it seems to be the same issues I have. my NB 2.0 1999 auto-trans feels like its in neutral when stopped on a hill. its mileage is 133325 the shop says it should be completely rebuild, clutch disk and all. when it runs it goes thru all gears fine. what do you think.
when i bought the bug 3yrs ago it gave me no problems but, I fear continue to drive it not to cause additional problems....
 

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Not 100% what to tell you.

I think the first thing I would suggest if check for trans leaks and possibly top the fluid off.

I am unsure if the valve body would cause problems with initial take off, usually they cause late/harsh up and down shifts, usually the warmer the fluid the harsher the shifting.
 

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thanks for the input, i have to say that yes it does leak a little trans fluid. and the problem with take-off at first would be just wait a couple of seconds then engage. I thought it was normal since there suppose to be a delay between reverse and drive. but as time has gone by, that delay has increased. It seems as if the trans is in neutral until it engages in upper rpm's yet, that is when its on a up hill slope. When on a flat surface well you really can't tell other then the delay engaging I just worry that if I have the trans rebuild and end up having to replace the Valve Body afterword and end up spending twice the amount of money. so, that is why I seek recommendations from those who know about these issues.
 

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the trans fluid is full i had read thet in the forum before, i can't say what they had put in it before, but I tend to use spec. fluids recommended for coolant, oil (synthetic-blend), brake, ect.. on all my vehicles. What i do have to say is that since I'm going to rebuild the trans then is it logical to replace/rebuild the Valve Body and where or who does the rebuild since there is no reliable place down here. I had a problem with a Nissan and ended up sending state-side for a good one.
 

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I would question the trans if full if you have had a leak.

If you do not fully understand how to check these transmissions and you do not know the history you can make a mistake.

The engine has to be running when you check the fluid and you will get some fluid spill out the drain when you first pull the plug, some people think this means the fluid is full.

Also if you do not know the cars history, someone may not have the small plastic stub pipe threaded into the pan drain hole?

I think the 4 speed has a paper filter and they can fall off, I would start with a filter change and see what happens with the trans at the proper fill level. You will also see how much material is in the pan so you could judge at that point if you want to invest in a valve body swap.

I suggest Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts for the filter and gasket kit.

As for valve bodies, search the Internet, there are a lot of places that provide exchange valve bodies.

Good luck.
 

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Good Afternoon Ladies and Gents,
After getting estimates from the dealership, which is a couple hours road trip, Local Tranny shop and AAMCO, I have taken the BughZ back to AAMCO. I know several comments have been made but, my son has talked personally with the mechanic who does the work. I saved up the money, (I haven't any credit) so AAMCO now has it and wants to do a free check, (free, regardless if I have the work done there or not). The 800 dollar thing they replaced must have been the major problem for the lean code problem because the CEL has not come back on since April when they did the work. My son thinks this AAMCO place, the mechanic, Chris, anyway, is a better bet. Just waiting on a phone call to see what kind of money they are wanting. They had told me around 1400 to 1600 for the valvebody. I wish I could do the job myself, but I don't have any lifts, and I am fat, so prob couldn't fit under the car, and though I am a bit knowledgeable I might make it worse.

Wish me luck
 

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Good luck, be careful with AAMCO, they almost ALWAYS use scare tactics to try and convince you of a complete overhaul, likely in the $4000-$4500 range.

I would say no way, valve body only. Also where are they getting the valve body and are they overhauling the valve body?

What is the valve body warranty. They may claim NO WARRANTY as they did not perform a complete overhaul, but this is total BS, the can and should warranty the valve body work for at least 1 year. My valve body warranty is for 2 years from an independent that I shipped my valve body to for overhauling.

They are 3000 miles away and have never seen the car, only the valve body.

Personally I think the valve body job should only be $1100-$1200 max, I was able to do the entire job on my back in the driveway taking WAY too much time in under 4 hours. If I have 10 of these cars under my belt, I bet I could do the job in 2 hours blindfolded!

Good luck.
 

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Search my name on the forum, I described how to fill transmission with about $10 worth of parts. I think the thread was titled Towed??? It was a long thread about a 2.0l as I recall??

I can give you some short cuts, you can reuse the pan gasket and filter and use Mobil1 synthetic ATF.

I used Pacific Coast Transmission in CA. Johnny and his crew turn the valve body around usually the same day and they know their stuff.

Take pictures of wiring. There are about 15 wire connections.
jfoj,

Thank you for this information you have shared. I have a 2003 convertible that is having this issue. I removed the valve body and sent it to PCT on Monday like you recommended. Johnny told me they should have by mid week and he should have turned around same day. Looking forward to getting it back and reinstalling. I am a little nervous about getting it all back together right and putting in the trans fluid but I hope this resolves my issue.

Anyway, with all the good information you have provided. I feel confident I am doing the right thing and hopefully saving myself a ton of money by doing it myself. I will try to update my results after I get it all back together.
 

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Good luck to you with the reinstall. It should go quickly if you have good notes/pictures.

The valve body may have an ID tag on it though one of the main bolt holes, cut that off before installing the valve body.

Make sure you have the spring and large piston that go into the bottom of the transmission. Use Vasoline to keep the piston the main trans body while you get the valvebody in place.

Just before you put the trans pan on, turn the ignition on, but DO NOT start the engine. Shift the trans through all the gears and make sure you have no error lights and the shift indicator does not have [] around each gear position. This will confirm that all the solenoid connection are good, maybe not correct, but at least good. This will save you a step if there are any connection.

As for filling the trans, I found this actually pretty easy and straight forward with my back yard filling system. Once you get the trans filled, cold, start the engine and keep adding fluid while the engine warms up. I then checked the fluid again after about 1 week of driving. This means you need more than 1 aluminum crush washer.

Good luck and I think you will be happy with PCT work and you will see their level of quality even in the packaging of return/
 

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Same Problem, shop rec????

Having the same valve body issue with my POS VW convertible bug. 2005, 78,000 miles on it. Dealership told me I missed the warrantee period and they want $2500 to fix it... Did I mention I told the dealer my transmission felt like it was slipping and jerky a few years ago and "they couldn't replicate the problem"?!
While I will never buy another VW again (this is just one of a constant list of expensive repairs) I do need to have this fixed.
Can anyone recommend a service station that won't rip me off in the NY tri-state area?
 

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akellymiles, call VW Customer Care and see what they can do for you; tell them, that the car was under warranty; when you had the problems. Be firm; that it is unacceptable as it is and relate that the dealer was unable to fix the car, under the warranty period. Get it handled; you may very well get it fixed for free; what do you have to lose, to try?

Contact Us
 

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"There is 1 large spring and piston that will fall out of the trans once the valve body is down, this can be held back in place with some Vaseline when you go to reassemble. "

I was trying to be careful and take the valve body down slowly, but it dropped and I see 2 springs ( one fits inside the other) and a cap/plunger. I did not see where those came from, or what direction/which end gets the plunger etc. Is there a diagram somewhere I could view for that? Valve body was shipped to Pacific Coast Transmissions last week.

Thanks.
 

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I have a 2005 vw beetle w 80000 miles and it shifts fine when cold but when warm it jerks sometimes from 1 to 2 and downshifts hard sometimes from 3 to 2. I don’t have any transmission codes but get A catalytic converter below threshold bank 1. Car doesn’t go into limp mode either. Is my valve body still bad?
 

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When the menu comes up link to the transmission not to the engine. You want transmission codes not engine codes. Two different modules.
 
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