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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got this car for my daughter, and it seems to me to be idling kind of high.Bad enough that my wife ask me if something was wrong with it.
But to me, it doesn't sound crazy or anything, just kind of high.
Anyway, i have never owned a VW other than an old 1970 Sand-rail job, which of course had the old carb, and choke on it!
So just not sure if this is typical for a Beetle or if something needs adjusting?
I have already changed the plugs, and that didn't change anything, but i figured they needed changing in case they had never been, w/ 78000 on it anyway.
There are NO codes present either.
The idling goes down to a normal sound as soon as the car is put in gear, then sounds fine.(not real sure yet if it does it later in the day after sitting, since i never drive it?
I am thinking it is a "morning kinda thing?"
So i myself, figure it is just the way the car is meant to warm up.
What can you guys tell me here?
Thanks for reading!
 

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There is a common problem with the PCV valve on the valve cover with the 2.5L; usually, this requires the replacement of the whole valve cover from Volkswagen. However, Dorman makes a repair kit; that is very affordable. You might want to get a vw compatible scan tool; to start diagnosing problems on these cars, otherwise you are flying blind! Check out basic ones on amazon.com; search "vw vag scan tool", there are under $50 versions that just read/clear codes, then $70 and above, that can read live data. For a factory vw level scan tool; check out VCDS by Ross Tech ($250-$350) and it can pretty much do it all.

Here is the Dorman repair kit:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-5-liter-gas/65633-re-2-5l-pcv-valve-failure-solutions-dorman.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
there is a common problem with the pcv valve on the valve cover with the 2.5l; usually, this requires the replacement of the whole valve cover from volkswagen. However, dorman makes a repair kit; that is very affordable. You might want to get a vw compatible scan tool; to start diagnosing problems on these cars, otherwise you are flying blind! Check out basic ones on amazon.com; search "vw vag scan tool", there are under $50 versions that just read/clear codes, then $70 and above, that can read live data. For a factory vw level scan tool; check out vcds by ross tech ($250-$350) and it can pretty much do it all.

Here is the dorman repair kit:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-5-liter-gas/65633-re-2-5l-pcv-valve-failure-solutions-dorman.html
oh man thanks! That is some good stuff right there!lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
pcv problem symptoms?

Billy,

what are some of the problems this pcv can cause? I assume you said, it could be the cause of the high idling?
Anyway, i found it at advance auto parts, and after a $10 coupon, it only cost $20, so i might go ahead and get it so i have it on hand anyway.

Thanks again for that info!
 

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Yeah, when the PCV fails; it is essentially a vacuum leak: (typical symptoms are) uneven idle, stalling, dying, acceleration issues and usually a CEL for a air leak related code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2010 VW Beetle 2.5L 5cyl./// BPR---KGR

I went ahead and put the new PCV on today,but yesterday the car done the following:

when i cranked it and let the idle speed drop down,after a few minutes all of a sudden i start to hear a distinctive TICKING noise for about 1 min, then back to sounding good, then back to TICKING, then all of a sudden just go dead on me!
My daughter said it has stalled on her while idling a few times, but never would do it with me until now.
The car runs great all the other times, has a whole lot of power! Fast! No skips OR SLIPS at all!
plus i did not get any codes of any kind on my machine,
Do you think the PCV Diaphragm i just replaced will fix all those problems too, or should i get this thing to a shop and have the check it out?
Anyway, any info you can throw at me to help keep me out of the shop, will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
 

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Based, upon my 2.5L Jetta install; it may take a couple of days for the new "valve" to settle in or break in, to seal correctly. It may take some driving for the computer to relearn; and adjust, to the new no leak condition of the PCV. When it comes; to the "ticking" noise, that could be something different and unrelated, to the PCV repair. If you feel; there are ongoing issues and the new PCV doesn't seem to have fixed it; I would scan the car again with a VW compatible scanner and see if there are any codes. Otherwise, you might seek professional help; if things do not improve. The 2.5L; were known to have timing chain and tensioner issues but that seems, to have been on the earlier pre 2008 model years. Is the oil level good and has it been changed, as per the service interval? How many miles on the car; do you think, the new PCV improved anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Based, upon my 2.5L Jetta install; it may take a couple of days for the new "valve" to settle in or break in, to seal correctly. It may take some driving for the computer to relearn; and adjust, to the new no leak condition of the PCV. When it comes; to the "ticking" noise, that could be something different and unrelated, to the PCV repair. If you feel; there are ongoing issues and the new PCV doesn't seem to have fixed it; I would scan the car again with a VW compatible scanner and see if there are any codes. Otherwise, you might seek professional help; if things do not improve. The 2.5L; were known to have timing chain and tensioner issues but that seems, to have been on the earlier pre 2008 model years. Is the oil level good and has it been changed, as per the service interval? How many miles on the car; do you think, the new PCV improved anything?
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Well i finally made it back! You will probably see where i commented on my previous other threads about this just now, but i finally got a CEL and code P0171 SYS.TOO LEAN / BANK 1.
I erased it and let my daughter go ahead and drive it today to see if it comes back, but the car was running good when i cracked it except for the annoying high rev first thing in the a.m. She hasn't said it has stalled on her since the PCV change. I never drive it. That's what worries me!
Anyway,it has 93k on it now, and the plugs, battery, pcv,have been changed and k&n filter installed,and good Lucas Deep Clean fuel sys treatment/cleaners added regularly.
I have not had the good old "Carbon Cleaning done." I usually just keep cleaners running thru my cars periodically and try to avoid paying the shop $250 for that!
i Still have to put in the fuel filter.
What do you think would make it run lean, with all of that said?
Maybe o2 sensor? IDK? Just hard to fix something that really isn't totally broken isn't it?
As for the ticking, i have noticed it today as i cracked it and looked for vac problems, which there are none i can see? It looks like brand new under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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It depends on the type of work you are doing and how deep you need to go, to diagnose problems and do things like programming, output tests, etc. There are aspects of a Volkswagen; that a "generic" obd II scanner will not have access to and won't give you factory trouble codes, which can help for specific troubleshooting issues. Things such as; ABS brake systems, Airbags, interior system components, etc.; need a vw compatible scanner to access those control modules, to get the trouble codes for them. VCDS from Ross Tech is in the $250-$350 range but there are more affordable options for under $55 with handheld scanner/code readers. Look on amazon; there is the VS450 which is a basic vw compatible code reader for $40 but I would recommend the more capable vag 401, which can read live data, align the throttle body and output tests etc. similar to what VCDS can do for $55.

What brand and model # obd II scanner do you have and what was the "cheap one" you bought off of ebay that didn't work? A typical scanner with live data can tell you allot for most driveability troubleshooting work but for other VW specific work, a VW compatible scanner can be required. Some examples would be; programming, key matching new keys, replacing a speedo cluster, swapping a new/used ecu, reading a abs or airbag light trouble code, clearing it or doing a throttle body alignment etc. Most of the non professional tools; cannot do this type of thing. Some of the high end scanners; from Snapon, Matco, Autel, etc., may be able to but those are very expensive, some in the 5k to 10k range, although I have heard the new Autel MaxiDas system is a good deal for allot less 2K?

You can read up on the capabilities of VCDS and the VAG 401 below:

Ross Tech VCDS:

Ross-Tech: FAQ

Ross-Tech: VCDS: Product Information

Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour

VAG 401:

Amazon.com: Xtool Vag401 Live Data OBD2 Vehicle Diagnostic Tool for Vw, Audi Seat Skoda: Automotive
 

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High idle

Very good info billymade....by the way..I just bought tht scanner u mentioned at the end of ur post...thnx for all ur good info
 

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Re:Vag401.x/tool

Billymade-I got the Vag401 from xtool...First of all its made in china...No prblm...I cant seem to get really nothing to work on this..It plugs in & powers up and shows many menue items but nothing either doesn't work or is not compatable to my 08 bug...tool/box it came in shows all kinds a bells and whistles. But that is it...Went to website all in Chinese...u can translate but that don't work that well either..Called the phone # on website and on shipping box it is not in service or cant let u in....
I took this to my local killer volks shop & they couldn't get anything to work...shows all kinda stuff on menue but doesn't connect or is not compatable...Anyways I got it from amazon & I'am returning it.
Have you ever used or know of anyone that used it?...thnx Billymade
 

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Well, I haven't purchased or used the VAG 401; I have the full version of the Ross Tech VCDS, so I cannot comment on the VAG 401. Because, of the nature of these Chinese tools; they are cheap but they offer limited support. If you read the amazon reviews; some people have gotten them to work but others haven't. Many people; are not willing to pay for the Ross Tech VCDS $250-$350; that is why we have been recommending the cheaper VAG tools on amazon.

The other option; is the cheap ELM327 wireless OBDII adapters and downloading a app for apple ios or a Android app. These are not VW specific but will do OBDII trouble codes and live data. NOTE: for a Apple device: you need a "Wifi" version and for Android devices you need "Bluetooth"; common devices to run this with are phones and tablets.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=ELM+327

As far as the VAG 401; there have been some threads on tdiclub and audizine, that people have discussed using it with success.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=xtool vag401

I don't know about your 2008 VW and the Xtool VAG401; it may not be compatible with your car or something maybe wrong with it or it may not have the latest update installed. Because of the Chinese nature and low prices of these scan tools; it can be a crapshoot, as to whether they work or not. A common problem; for not being able to scan, is a aftermarket stereo, installed incorrectly. Read more about that issue; here:

Ross-Tech: VCDS: Afterrmarket Radio Problem

Many around here; have had success with the basic code reader; VAG 405 and VAS450 but they don't do much but read and clear codes. I think at this point; any scan tool you buy; should be capable of doing live data, which really helps diagnose problems.

There are allot of these chinese scan tools but the only one, that I know for sure that works and has USA based support, is the Ross Tech VCDS but it is a investment @ $250-$350. Ross Tech is based in the USA and the support is there; Ross Tech, offers phone based support and licensed user only support online in a forum. It does require a Windows based PC; to run, however.

If you want to more more advanced reading of vw specific codes (abs, comfort control modules et) and things, like output tests, coding and key matching etc, look to other Chinese tools with no guarantee them working or just get the know solid, known to work Ross Tech VCDS tool.

Ross-Tech: Home

Again, you might start with a inexpensive ELM 327 OBD II adapter and a OBD II app; to get going with live data reading and being able to read obd II codes.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=elm+327
 

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Re:Scanner

Very very good info Billmade...U r absouloutly correct on ur answers/reply....I sent the thing back..but might try your suggestion(s)...thnx again Billymade.....
 

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I'm sorry the VAG 401; didn't work out for you. Have you had any other scanners work; on it before the VAG 401? Do you have; a aftermarket stereo, installed (that can cause a connecting failure issue)? There are a number of other "VAG" tools that do live data but some are expensive, for example the Foxwell NT500 is from a Australian company, it looks good but at $200, you are getting close to the price of VCDS. Again, there are other cheaper ones on amazon but there is no guarantee, they will work either. I know for a fact; that a genuine Ross Tech VCDS tool will, if you are willing to spend the money. Meanwhile, order the ELM327 right away ($20 or less) and get a OBD II app, for your phone/tablet and you can start with that without spending much money ($20-$30 total). Let us know; what you decide to do and how things work out for you.
 

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Re scanners

Billymade-I do not have an after market stereo....I do have a simple scanner for just reading codes ..It woeks fine for what it is....I will consider the options u mentioned ..Will let u know beetle master!...thnx again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
update

just so anyone that comes across this looking for answers on the high idle at cold start, i found the answer on another thread, and it is simply a normal thing for the 2.5 L engine.

BUT---- what i need someone to tell me is what are the most common things that can make a great running engine go dead when you stop at a traffic light or slow roll but only sometimes, then cranks right back up and moves on down the road w/o missing a beat?????

It has the codes that mean "fuel mix too lean" That's too much O2 right? (forget at the time the code numbers?)
I have checked the hoses for a leak, but w/o running a test all the hoses look like new to me, and nothing loose?

There has to be someone besides me that has had this problem? It sure would be nice if someone has so i would know what to check first?
Could the too lean code be cause this? Just doesn't seem like it would to me since i only have it go dead maybe once a day of so, sometimes multiple times per day. Just depends. Never know when it will happen next?
Already done the plugs, fuel filter, pcv, new kn air filter, cleaned maf. (i am about to clean the throttle body just in case. Since iv'e had it always adding Lucas fuel cleaners. Like i bottle every 2 weeks. And have run deep clean through it 2 times now.

Anyone? Please? Thanks for reading, and i will continue my hunt for a thread about this.
Maybe even start a new thread and hope i get some bits?
2010 VW Beetle Conv. 2.5L BPR
 
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