NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 20 of 125 Posts

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I decided it's time to frame up my music studio walls. Actually, just two walls since the other two are already finished.

The previous owner had a electrical company bring the service up to code, which is great for me. The problem is that they left the original fuse box on the wall, and just pigtailed off the existing wiring which is typical on a service update.

Here is the dilemma I am having. I'm not sure how to frame around the existing fuse box and still leave access. The latch for the door on the fuse box is literally 3/4" from the cement wall.

The room before I framed in the walls was 6' by 8'. I lost nearly 6" on the 8' side due to some kind of pipe that I needed to frame around. I'd really like to conserve the space around and under the breaker panel and old fuse box.

Take a look at the photo. What can I do with it? :confused:

Keep in mind that this is the very first time I have EVER done anything like this so please be gentile! :D Oh, the studs are not warped, it's just the wide angle distortion of my lens!
 

Attachments

·
ElectricHarleyHouseOfLove
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
Is it that black thing in the corner with the paper on front you're trying to frame around?

If that's the case, I would almost actually do something like get a sheet of plywood and make a floor-to-ceiling'ish door that you can open in the corner, kinda like they use on corner cabnets these days. would also leave access to all the wiring and stuff in there for the future, and it could also hide the other panel as well. Hmm. if it's a music room, you may want to cover it with something soft though (not an acoustical expert. hehe.), perhaps do something in all 4 corners of the room to make it look on purpose?
 

·
Y2K Speedle
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Is it that black thing in the corner with the paper on front you're trying to frame around?

If that's the case, I would almost actually do something like get a sheet of plywood and make a floor-to-ceiling'ish door that you can open in the corner, kinda like they use on corner cabnets these days. would also leave access to all the wiring and stuff in there for the future, and it could also hide the other panel as well. Hmm. if it's a music room, you may want to cover it with something soft though (not an acoustical expert. hehe.), perhaps do something in all 4 corners of the room to make it look on purpose?
That's what I would do. Fabricate a big wall like doors with hidden hinges so you can access the whole thing easy and hide it all at the same time.
Acustic, yes, you will need to work on that too. Drywall itself is not even close to be acustic insulator. Even if you stuff the back of drywall with heat insulator it's not going to be enough.
When building a music studio (home or professional) acustic preferences of the room are mayor factor. It does matter what kind of equipment you have but if you spend 50000 on speakers, amplifier and wires and you work in a basement with drywall...... you waisted your money. You need to cover the walls, ceiling and floors with sound absorbers and reflectors and kill all of the extra noise makers ( fridge, furnace, fans and squeaky toys :) ). Microphone does not forgive !!!!
Surf the internet and you will find a ton of advices on how to build a nice solid basement studio. Find some books on acustics and read as much as you can.
It makes a big difference if you know sound preferences and how the sound travels.

Good luck
 

·
Retro/Techno
Joined
·
1,118 Posts
If I'm reading your post correctly, it seems like the issue isn't really how to still allow access to the box, but how to box it in with the box and panel being only 3/4 of an inch from the corner, right? If this is your issue, I'd go with what Aaron said; make a small utility closet. That way you won't have to worry about getting drywall into the corner and around the box and panel. Or (let's see if I can explain this through type) you could fake out a squared off post in the corner. Drywall up to the edge of the fuse box on one wall, drywall up to about the same distance from corner on the other wall then fabricate a fake, removable box using hollow-core doors. Put some cleats on the floor and ceiling and have the fake column attach to that with a couple of dywall screws or finges with magnetic catches.

Then again, if it's not the issue with the distance between the corner and the box, just disregard.
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This is why I love the NB.org people! Great ideas everyone! Thanks!

I had not thought of a bi-fold door. I do think that a 30" bi-fold door will work. It'll open away from the wall toward the center of the room. It will take a bunch more framing, but I think it will leave as much usable space as possible and still hide the panels (Of course with 3' clearance for the panel required by the NEC, National Electrical Code)

I'm not worried about acoustically isolating the room. It's mainly for recording my ideas and decent sounding demo's to be shared with the rest of the band.

I'm sure I will have a few more questions before I am done, especially regarding drywall hanging and mudding. :)

Thanks again everyone!
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, after lots of pondering and thought, I did go for the 30" bi-fold door. It took several hours to figure out how to frame it and make it work, but I did frame it with about 6" of clearance with the door closed, and with the door open, it's got the entire width of the room.

My outlet boxes are mounted and the wire is roughed in. I've removed the existing receptacles and am going to blank them off tomorrow.

The wife and I took a trip to Ikea to pick up the flooring and recessed lights this afternoon. :cool:

Tomorrow I will cut the channel in the ceiling so I can cut in and wire up my recessed lights. I will also put up the vapor barrier and start putting up the drywall! :D

I really think the challenge is going to be cutting in the outlet boxes. Any tips or tricks to that?
 

·
strange things are afoot
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
If you have a dremel tool, they have a spiral cutting bit and depth attachment available. buzzes right thru drywall and allows you to easily follow markup lines. works a treat. also works good for following the inside of can lights in the ceiling. :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
Or get a roto-zip which is what the pros use. Beefier than a dremel and faster. I found that I broke too many dremel bits. Borrowed a roto-zip and got done. I think you can rent from home depot or other rental businesses.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,908 Posts
I say sledge hammer it...must not be any use anymore.:p

Sorry, on medication today. Yeah they said some good stuff up there ^^^.

We had to do the same thing, they drywall screwed ours shut. But I would imagine you would want access to it in case they needed to do some work at some point. Access Panel should be sufficient. Put a Ficus in front of it.
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well crap! Where I thought I was going to install the recessed lights, I've got a couple of branch circuits running right where I wanted them. Of course, the lights I bought are not IC rated, so I can not install them that close to the old wires.

Back to the drawing board......:(
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, it's official. I have put up my first EVER chunk of drywall. (Does this mean I'm a man now?)

I thought it was going to be tougher to cut out the outlet box. First I tried some chalk to mark the back of the board, but that didn't work too well. So I grabbed the vaseline and smudged a little bit around the lip of the outlet box. Worked like a champ!

The other thing was the actual cutting of the outlet box hole. I had never used a spiral bit before. Interesting to say the least. I do think it works well, just doesn't do straight lines too well. The more I do it, the easier it should get.

I decided that I am going to do a small drop ceiling type of thing for the recessed lights. I'm essentially going to build a box directly below where I wanted the lights to go before, and then drywall it all. That way I can get the clearances away from the wiring, and still have my lights. :cool: I won't get to this part of it until saturday because of T-day, and then we are hitting Seattle on friday with some friends.

What fun it is doing this though!:D
 

Attachments

·
33 ⅓
Joined
·
15,621 Posts
Well, it's official. I have put up my first EVER chunk of drywall. (Does this mean I'm a man now?)
:D
Ha, that made me laugh. I hung my first sheetrock, back in 1987. No, wait. I did some in 1982 in High School. Almost forgot. In 1987 we hung some at a angle, on a attic ceiling; what fun!
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
That is what I was going to say. So I agree with this.
That utility "closet," with the bi-fold door closed, is only 4" deep. Not much is going to fit in there along side the Circuit breaker panel and fuse box. I might be able to fit a broom or two in there, but I'll probably put my amplifiers near the door, so it won't be opened too often. :)
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
All the framing is done finally. Yippy! :clap:

I've also put up the vapor barrier, cut in the 3 recessed lights in the existing ceiling (The other 3 will be cut in after I put the drywall up.)

I've also decided to run all new wire for the light circuit. I do not know the temperature rating of the existing wiring, so I figure it's better to be safe than homeless. I had to remove drywall around the switch to fish in the new wire. That should be fun to cover back up!

Pics to come later! :cool:
 

·
Just because!
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The first two coats of drywall mud is up. What a PITA! I figured it wouldn't be too hard, but trying to get a thin smooth coat is really tough! Of course, it does not help to have sub-par drywall seams, but if I do something like this again, I'll know how to do it correctly!

Here is a "in work" shot and what it looks like right now.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 125 Posts
Top