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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99 GL 2.0 with 149,000 miles. I got it running after sitting for a year and a half and has been running for about 6 months. I have replaced air filter, oil, oil filter, Both O2's with OEM Bosch, and fixed a massive vacuum line to the brake booster. No smoke. I have codes for the O2's and coolant sensor, and a few misfires. The car seems to run pretty smooth except when starting when warm or after a drive. I've heard other 2.0 VWs around town and they sound the same. I went through a 1/8 of a tank on a 8 mile drive. I don't drive it hard, I usually shift it before 3k RPM

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Please do a fresh scan and post all codes here, we will do our best to help! :)

Shooting from the hip; from the info above:

bad temp sensor; will kill gas milage, cold start and rough idle are common as well.

have you:

1. replaced the fuel filter
2. cleaned and adapted the throttle body
3. check the coil for hairline cracks
4. checked your fuel trims

For the 02 sensors; when I replaced mine, the "code" that I had remained there, even after installing the new replacement sensor. I did a "hard reset": remove neg/pos battery cables, touch both together (disconnected from the battery) for 30 seconds and reinstall and the code cleared, stayed away.

Post up those codes!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Please do a fresh scan and post all codes here, we will do our best to help! :)

Shooting from the hip; from the info above:

bad temp sensor; will kill gas milage, cold start and rough idle are common as well.

have you:

1. replaced the fuel filter
2. cleaned and adapted the throttle body
3. check the coil for hairline cracks
4. checked your fuel trims

For the 02 sensors; when I replaced mine, the "code" that I had remained there, even after installing the new replacement sensor. I did a "hard reset": remove neg/pos battery cables, touch both together (disconnected from the battery) for 30 seconds and reinstall and the code cleared, stayed away.

Post up those codes!
The last time I scanned for codes( A week or 2 ago) I got these:

P0300
P0301
P0134
P0302
P0140
P0141
P1582
P0116

I will scan the car tomarrow and see if any codes went away or I got some more. About Nine months ago I replaced the fuel filter, it has about 200 miles on it. And around that time we looked at the coil pack and it was cracked before and the previous owner before my Aunt must have repaired it. My Aunt got the car in 2007 with about 88,000 miles and hasn't replaced the coil pack to my knowledge. I had the throttle body aligned and I don't think he had cleaned it when he did, I will have to examine it tomorrow. How would I look at the fuel trims? All I have is a Generic scanner I got at WalMart and a metric tool kit. Thank you for the quick response!
 

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"Jensenchase;
About Nine months ago I replaced the fuel filter, it has about 200 miles on it. "


Really??!!! If that's the case, don't worry about mpg because you aren't spending $50 a year on fuel!


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"Jensenchase;
About Nine months ago I replaced the fuel filter, it has about 200 miles on it. "


Really??!!! If that's the case, don't worry about mpg because you aren't spending $50 a year on fuel!


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I'm guessing that the 200 miles was all very short trips. These cars don't get very good mileage in the city. On very short trips the car barely gets a chance to warm up, so it's running "open loop" most of the time, which further hurts mileage. Short trips can also lead to the "goo under the oil cap" situation, which can't be good for the emissions system either.
 

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Also, the fuel gauge can be misleading. I'd wait until you fill up next time to really see what type of MPG you're getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I don't have a drivers license, just my permit. I will start it and let it idle for about 8 minutes or I drive it down the block and back. I did drive it with my aunt in the car and we went on a 8 mile drive. Car's fuel was at the dot below the 1/4 mark and after the trip it was a little into the red and the fuel light was on. I put the fuel filter on the car when it wasn't running and that that it was the cause. I have tried premium fuel and there was no difference. Also ran fuel injector cleaner through it, no difference in mpg.

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You really need to drive the car for a long time in order to really see fuel economy. You can't just go by the gauge. And I know in my NB, that last 1/2 tank dropped like a rock compared to the first half. Its probably fine. No reason to think anything is amiss until you are really driving the car. Also, idling will kill MPGs.
 

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What kind/brand of scan tool (brand, model number); are you using and can you see "live data", information about what the car is doing, when it is running? I would clear all the codes and see if any come back, many of those codes... could have been there, from before your repairs to the car (02 sensors, coil, misfire codes etc.). That is why; you want to clear the codes and see if they come back, indicating the problem is still there.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16500/P0116/000278

Does seem to indicate; that your coolant temperature sensor is bad; a easy and inexpensive fix, replacing this helped my morning starting, idle and gas mileage.

Thermostat: You might; consider replacing this as well; many thermostats are not working as they should, not getting the temps up to where they should be and this could affect gas mileage as well.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17990/P1582/005506

This code; could possibly indicate, that you need to clean and adapt, your throttle body. This is another; easy to do job and could potentially, help gas milage and make your car, run smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What kind/brand of scan tool (brand, model number); are you using and can you see "live data", information about what the car is doing, when it is running? I would clear all the codes and see if any come back, many of those codes... could have been there, from before your repairs to the car (02 sensors, coil, misfire codes etc.). That is why; you want to clear the codes and see if they come back, indicating the problem is still there.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16500/P0116/000278

Does seem to indicate; that your coolant temperature sensor is bad; a easy and inexpensive fix, replacing this helped my morning starting, idle and gas mileage.

Thermostat: You might; consider replacing this as well; many thermostats are not working as they should, not getting the temps up to where they should be and this could affect gas mileage as well.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17990/P1582/005506

This code; could possibly indicate, that you need to clean and adapt, your throttle body. This is another; easy to do job and could potentially, help gas milage and make your car, run smoother.
I can't see live data, only freeze frame data. I'm not for sure what model # it is, I will check. I cleared the codes after I did all that work. I never got the misfire codes before I did they O2 sensors. The codes I got before were
P0140
P0141
P0134
P0135
P1580
Cleared them after I did the O2 sensor replacement and then got my throttle body aligned.

P0134 was the only code I got after all that, then after a few weeks I scanned it and got the rest of the codes.


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16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity

I'm sorry; I'm confused, can you post the current trouble codes? Which ones are currently coming up on your scanner; after you cleared the codes (none from the past)?

If you are getting the 02 sensor codes; it looks like they are not working (e.g. "no activity") Possibly, a wiring problem or incorrect parts? What were the part numbers for the o2 sensors you installed? According to the Bosch website: Vehicle Part Finder

these are the correct part numbers for your car (for the downstream sensor: check your vin #):

Vehicle Part Finder Results

Bosch Part #: 16978 - Oxygen Sensor Upstream (before cat) AEG Eng. code

Bosch Part #: 16132 - Oxygen Sensor Downstream (after cat) From chassis # 1c..x..460 001 AEG Eng. code

Bosch Part #: 16213 - Oxygen Sensor Downstream (after cat) To Chassis # 1C..X..460 000 AEG Eng.


Meanwhile: you can look up codes on the Ross Tech Wiki: this site, gives specific informaiton for Volkswagen vehicles. Look up with the numbers shown or use the search window in the right top corner:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes
 

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Yes, in your case; probably something is wrong, so the car has to compensate for whatever is wrong with it (you reset, everything to "zero" as it were). Here is a explanation from Ross Tech; the makers of VCDS (a Volkswagen specific scan tool):

"Whenever you clear DTC's or remove power from the ECU, all readiness bits will be set to "Failed or Incomplete". Most cars do not have all 8 systems, so as soon as you apply power again, the bits corresponding to systems that are not actually in the car will come up "Passed" again.

It takes a variety of specific driving conditions to "test" all the systems. It can be done in a short time using a very specific and complicated procedure found in the On Board Diagnostic section of the Factory Repair Manual for your engine. The alternative is just to drive the car for 2-3 days. Make sure you include at least one short highway trip, and your Readiness Bits should all read "Pass" again."


If you have VCDS; you can "set" these codes, otherwise you have to drive the car around and it will eventually reset these.

Examples with VCDS:

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM Tour: Readiness

Basically, a over complicated way; of saying you "reset" everything and the car has to "relearn" the settings you erased. So, running "rough" is when the settings are cleared/wiped by the scan tool and running "back to normal", is after the specific settings have been put back in.

PS: let us know the brand and model of the scan tool; that way we can see what you have to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Couldn't get my scanner today so I will scan in the morning.
The scanner tool that I have is this:
Equus 3100 Innova CanOBD2 Diagnostic Tool
 

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Hey, that particular Innova 3100 scanner; does not have the ability to read "live data", meaning it cannot read, what is happening when the engine is running (e.g. rpm, oil pressure, charging, coolant temperature etc.). So, we can just read the codes: freeze frame data and clear the codes, not some of the more sophisticated testing information, like fuel trim levels. Hopefully, we can figure out the issues you are having; based, on the trouble codes. This is a good scanner; it just doesn't have some of the more advanced features, of the more expensive versions.

INNOVA 3100 Diagnostic Scan Tool/Code Reader with ABS and Battery Backup for OBD2 Vehicles : Amazon.com : Automotive
 

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My first beetle was a '98 beetle that i only drove around town, fuel mileage was about 20 mpg. My 2005 beetle which sees only highway miles or long trips does about 27-28 mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So, I cleaned my throttle body and the car runs smoother, Still waiting for my Aunt to bring my scanner. Hopefully she will bring it later. Thank you for all the replies and all the links, it really helps!
 

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Are you keeping your tires pumped up? Flat tires will kill your gas mileage no matter what condition your car is in. Also short trips will kill your gas mileage because your motor does not have time to warm up properly, a cold motor uses a lot more fuel. Interested to see these codes though
 
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