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How many mpg do you get?

30K views 53 replies 31 participants last post by  warriorbass05 
#1 ·
I have a 2003 VW New Beetle 2.0 GL

A full tank of gas gets me about .... let's say 200 miles?
:mad:

Is that normal!!

My dads 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix gets 450miles.
Lame.:p
 
#9 ·
2003, 1.8T I get about 27-29/gallon Hwy on average. The original window sticker says 31mpg highway, hhmm??
I think that is pretty normal gas mileage. I have not taken my Beetle on a long Highway trip but I am averaging about 25mpg which is about 60% city and 40% highway driving. I think 29 or even 30mpg is possible on extended trips but I doubt that it will get any more than that even when it was new.
 
#15 ·
I'm averaging 29mph with the 1.8 on 93 octane. Best I saw was 34 on a long trip at a steady 60-70.


02SilverSport?Sent from my iPad using Autoguide
 
#16 ·
Mpg 2001 2.0 gls

I just checked with the last tank of gas using the iPhone app MPGcal free and I got 30.83 MPG! Coming from 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 that is crazy! I have the gas saving tires on their as well..... Bridgestone Ecopia all city driving as well.....ill keep checking it and make sure it was not a fluke! manual trans as well.....
 
#21 ·
Change that transmission fluid ASAP!! The automatic transmission of the early beetle's are the worst ever made. If you don't have any symptoms of hard shifts or not going into 4th consider yourself lucky and change the transmission fluid. You will be glad you did.
VWVortex.com - Heads-up: VW "Lifetime" auto transmission fluid (baloney!!!)!!!)

Here is what you need:
Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Search > Transmission Fluid > ES#261800 Complete Automatic Transmission Service Kit - 01MSKKT

Do this regardless of your other problems and issues with the car. A transmission rebuild by the dealer will cost 5000-7000 Dollars. So this will be cheap insurance.

Anyway, 18mpg isn't good. Have your car scanned for codes and report back. Vacuum leaks, misfires, faulty coils, spark plugs and wires can all cause the engine to run less efficient. Let us know what the codes are and we can assist you further.
 
#20 ·
That's what I thought too. I have changed the fuel filter, air intake filter, and spark plugs. I also bought a new set of spark plug wires, but have not installed them yet. The car runs fine, good compression on all four cylinders, no falt codes, just lousy gas mileage. Any suggestions on what else to look at?
 
#22 ·
Have the car scanned for codes and let us know what the codes are. Check for vacuum leaks! Old rubber hoses get brittle and leak. Replace all the rubber hoses with silicone hoses. They last much longer and are higher in heat resistance.
Clean your MAF sensor and Throttlebody if you haven't done that already. Swap out your old coil. Those old 2.0 liter coils get old and develope hairline fractures which waste gas. Again, check for codes and make sure you write them down and let us know what they are.!!!
 
#24 ·
The changing of the transmission fluid probably was just a band aid. These cars are known for their weak valve bodies and once they start failing changing the fluid will do very little. Not shifting into 4th is one symptom of faulty solenoids within the valve body unable to reach proper line pressure to change gears. This causes higher than normal friction inside the transmission and eventually these symptoms will get worse. Swapping out the valve body and transmission harness will probably get rid of your problem with the shifting if the rest of the transmission hasn't been effected yet.

Not sure about your O2 sensor. But it won't help with the shifts. Try to have it scanned by someone that has a VAG.com / VCDS software. It does show a lot more than a generic OBD2 scanner.
 
#26 ·
City/highway? Average length of commute?

My '05 2.0 auto gets 26.5-27.5 mpg when i drive 30 miles mostly highway @70 mph, my mom has it now driving 44 miles of country highway mostly 45-55mph getting 29-30 mpg.

Have you changed plugs & wires? It made a difference in mine when i changed them @ 80,000 miles.
 
#29 ·
City/Highway avg length of commute: 7-15 miles city/40-45 miles highway approximate travel trip length. MPG: 17-21. Period.

At 54.5K miles (Aug 2012) the mechanic did the following:
  • Replace engine oil & filter sytem w/synthetic
  • Replace engine air-fuel-cabin filters
  • Replace interior cabin filter (bad!)
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Replace engine oil dipstick
  • set all tires @ 36 psi
  • Replace transmission filter & pan gasket
  • Partial transmission fluid service

He made a list of RECOMMENDATIONS:
  • Check Engine Light (intermitently going on)
  • Thermostat & Temp switch w/coolant service
  • Complete brake fluid service
  • Timing belt at 70-75K miles

So, no, the spark plug wires were not replaced.

Thanks for your comments and I hope I've answered your questions and this has come closer to finding a solution(s) to the poor, very poor, gas mileage of this car.

Glen
 
#28 ·
I get 24.5 city and 29.5 hwy. Have you checked your brake calipers? You may have one sticking or the park brake may not be properly adjusted. I have changed the air filter, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and green top temp sensor. Nothing has really changed my mpg's. After the timing belt the mileage dropped slightly but has started coming back up. Also keep the tires properly inflated and a good alignment on the wheels.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for your commments. .. No, I have not checked the brake calipers. (I've not worked on cars for decades and it looks like I'll be starting again with this "I finally found the car I've wanted to drive for a long time" VW 2005 Convertible. :)

Of your list of things you changed, I listed the items the mechanic did in August 2012, in an earlier reply today. The filters were changed, but the seemingly major work you suggest/had done to yours (timing belt, water pump, thermostat & green top temp sensors) have not been done. Not yet. We'll see how that fits into this mileage investigation and my budget. ;)

Glen
 
#32 · (Edited)
UPDATE: OBD II/OEM Comp Scan Test results = what do they mean?

Just reviewed, in detail (word for word) the Invoice of work performed by the mechanic.

[background]: Since reading about the OBD testing (and reading a lot on the Ross-Tech website about their VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic System) Packages, I'm sincerely/seriously considering investing the $250 for the VCDS system that will work for this car (most likely this one: VCDS License with KII-USB Interface). And, since I'm not familiar (yet!) with the codes, I figure someone on this forum might be able to decode the results I see on the mechanic's invoice/work list.)

here's how it's written, exactly! (Invoice was computer generated)


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
COMPLETE OBD II/OEM COMP SCAN TEST
P0420= CAT EFFENCEY LOW
16502/P0118= COOLANT TEMP SNSR HIGH
RESET CIRCUITS COMPLETE
AFTER DAY RETURNED & NEW FAULT
19537/P0381=ENG TEMP TOO LOW INTERMT
RESET AGAIN
CUSTOMER TO MONITOR SYSTEM
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

If someone can, and is willing to, explain what's written above, I'm more than grateful.

Also, if I'm given directions on where to help myself follow-up on the codes above (to learn more about the codes, their meanings, and how to deal with them), I'm more than capable (well, to a degree; I don't have a garage to do major work in! Nor a whole bunch of tools, but I'm willing to begin taking care of this car as best I can; leaving the major work to someone I can trust.


Again, I do look forward to hearing your reactions and comments.

MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE! :D


Glen
 
#33 ·
Did he actually do anything or just reset the codes? The last comment...customer to monitor...makes me think it is up to you to watch and figure out what is wrong.

Sounds like your cat isn't at full efficiency, your coolant sensor is on the fritz as is your engine temp sensor. If non of these are fixed what was the point of just pointing them out?

I don't know the codes, but look them up on the net and most times you can find out the reasoning behind them.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hey, Rayn, thanks for your comments.

Yes, I'm puzzled too at the "customer will monitor" comment. I do recall he and I spoke about the Engine Light being on/off (which soon after the work began to stay "on" steadily!) ... How the heck can I "monitor" something (like code changes, etc) unless I'm given specifics to be on the alert for?! ... Those were my thoughts as I wrote the last entry.

I'll look up the codes. And, based on more feedback/input from y'all on this forum, I will be keep the vehicle maintained.


Thanks for your input! Much obliged, Rayn.


Glen
 
#35 ·
Mileage

Well my 2.0 went through some serious issues and I was getting on average 215 per tank. Terrible, but this beetle has come along way. I changed alot of parts and now she is back up to around 330 miles per tank. Sounds like you have issues. First start with the computer as mentioned earlier then go from there!
 
#36 · (Edited)
Well my 2.0 went through some serious issues and I was getting on average 215 per tank. Terrible, but this beetle has come along way. I changed alot of parts and now she is back up to around 330 miles per tank. Sounds like you have issues. First start with the computer as mentioned earlier then go from there!
Thank you, Billy Joel, for your supportive response.

I've been reading up about ODBII-reading equipment on the Ross-Tech site. Then discovered the Equus equipment (Innova 3130) and am quite drawn to it. Price is significantly better ($179 vs $249) and seems quite straightforward.

And, yes, I plan to find some equipment (right now I'm leaning toward the Innova 3130b or 3130c) to do my own diagnosis. I also plan to contact the mechanic and discuss with him the test results he found during the $950 servicing and his "Customer will monitor" written suggestion that I was not apprised of on how to do this monitoring.

So, Billy Joel, do you have your story, your steps and starting problems/diagnosis that brought you to state:
Terrible, but this beetle has come along way
? Please feel free to share with me either via personal communications or point me to your posts.

Again, thank you for your time and support, Billy Joel. You've offered hope! :)

Glen
 
#37 · (Edited)
Replace the thermostat. That is the VERY first thing that should have been done. Engine temps should be at least 205F and constant. Shop should have verified that early on, however, nobody does this. Then once you know the engine temp is good, move on to other things. You have coolant system codes now anyway, might as well replace the coolant sensor as well, this can be an easy DIY.

What the shop means by the customer monitor the situation is to watch for CEL and bring car back and note other issues.

You should have a scan tool, no need to spend $300, read below.

Suggest you read both of the links below in my signature as well.

As for the P0420 code, hold off on this for now. Many VW's had this code and needed a software update to stop this as it was somewhat of a false code. But also be aware that the 2.0 also had a lot of catalytic converter problems as well. You may also have a partially clogged converter, this would impact fuel economy, however, low engine coolant temp is a FAR more common problem that gets overlooked ALL the time. Get the engine temp sorted, then see if you can get close to 27+ on the highway. Your in town mileage will not be much better than 20-21 as I recall?

Verify what the EPA site says for your model as well - http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymake/Volkswagen2003.shtml
 
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