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As a Disclaimer, this is definitely not a simple plug-and-play DIY. If you don't have experience soldering circuit boards and specifically LEDs or other SMD/SMT circuitry, I would recommend you find someone who can help you. If you melt something, you pretty much have to live with it forever. You can't really "fix" a circuit board with integrated dyes very easily.
Total Time: Took me about 2 hours to do Nubz' instrument cluster, figuring out some stuff as I went and soldering only a few LEDs at a time then testing. Took me about 2 hours to do mybugrocks' instrument cluster but I was soldering almost twice as many LEDs that time. Your time will vary.
Tools Needed:
I'm also available to do this for you if you are so-inclined... just buy the LEDs that you want and ship them over with your instrument cluster and a return shipping label... give me a few days to work on them and I'll ship it back to you. No charge for labor.
Feel free to PM me if you have questions or to discuss me changing the LEDs for you... but for those of you who have questions about how to solder, you probably shouldn't be trying this.
All I ask in return if you do this yourself is that you let me know if you did this and post some pictures to contribute to the community!
Imagine if I was a lurker just kept this DIY to myself... NOT COOL. 
Cars already done, links go directly to Instrument Cluster Posts:
I'm curious for someone to do green. Someone photochopped a green one using an ugly shade of green while in reality the color wavelength tells me that the green LEDs should be more of an emerald green (like the cruise control display) rather than a straight-out-of-the-80's faded green.
Next in Line for Colored Instruments done by Me:
.addicted2sp33d (Judee's Chauffeur)
Total Time: Took me about 2 hours to do Nubz' instrument cluster, figuring out some stuff as I went and soldering only a few LEDs at a time then testing. Took me about 2 hours to do mybugrocks' instrument cluster but I was soldering almost twice as many LEDs that time. Your time will vary.
Tools Needed:
- T10 Torx Screwdriver, or T20 Torx Screwdriver
- Tiny Phillips Screwdriver
- PLCC2 LEDs (20 for 2006+, 24 for 2002, 20 PLCC2s and 6 RA SIDELEDs for the LCDs in 1999, more PLCC2's if you want to change other warning lights, turn signals, etc.)
- Tweezers
- Soldering Iron with an appropriately tiny tip
- Solder (Preferably Rosin Core, Lead Free)
- Lots of light (these LEDs are SMALL and the solder pads are even smaller!)
- Steady Hand
- Good Music
- Pull the fuse (5A) for the Instrument Cluster from the Fuse Box on the driver-side of the dash. I haven't had to disconnect the battery for this one, but it might be a good idea if you want. I just found pulling the fuse to be much easier and I don't wipe out my radio settings.
- Remove Instrument Cluster Video (works for all years): Click Here
- Dissect Instrument Cluster Video (2006+ Only): Click Here - For 2006+ Beetles, the needles pull straight out in one piece, no need to disconnect the hubs (the silver round thing).
- Dissect Instrument Cluster How-To (1998-2005): Click Here.
- Remove the rear white casing (the side with the connectors) of the instrument cluster by unscrewing the phillips screws around the perimeter of the housing. The white shell will pull right off without resistance. You may need to remove the sticker that says "Do Not Tamper".
- At this point, the remaining assembly consists of the circuit board, a white molded plastic piece, and your LCD display. The two pieces are held together by a metal frame wrapped AROUND the LCD, with two clips connecting to the circuit board (4 clips for 2006+ LCDs).
- Remove the speedometer magneto and mark the pins that were used (the connector on the circuit board has 5 pins, while the magneto only has 4 pins.
- Unclip the LCD retention brackets and the white molded plastic will completely separate from the circuit board. Be ready to catch the LCD, as it will come right out.
- Now with the "naked" circuit board, we're ready to solder!
- Note the polarity of the LEDs that you want to replace. There should be a corner of the LED with a notch taken out of it. That is the cathode. Take a high-resolution picture, or desolder the LEDs one at a time. You'll need to re-solder the new LEDs in the same polarity, and the circuit board is not clearly marked.
- This step is optional, but once I desoldered the LED, I re-applied a tiny bit of solder to the pads because some of the solder material would always stick to the LED that I just removed.
- I did a few LEDs at a time and hooked them up to make sure I didn't melt them (LEDs are extremely heat sensitive).
- Re-Assemble Instrument Cluster Video: Click Here
- Re-Install Instrument Cluster and Re-Align Needles Video: Click Here
I'm also available to do this for you if you are so-inclined... just buy the LEDs that you want and ship them over with your instrument cluster and a return shipping label... give me a few days to work on them and I'll ship it back to you. No charge for labor.
Feel free to PM me if you have questions or to discuss me changing the LEDs for you... but for those of you who have questions about how to solder, you probably shouldn't be trying this.
All I ask in return if you do this yourself is that you let me know if you did this and post some pictures to contribute to the community!
Cars already done, links go directly to Instrument Cluster Posts:
- Judee: Nubz (1st Ever!) - Night-Friendly Red: Click Here
- Casey: Fiona - Pink Everything: Click Here
- Evilina: Pink Everything, except LCD remains blue because of differences in the LEDs that were used: Click Here
I'm curious for someone to do green. Someone photochopped a green one using an ugly shade of green while in reality the color wavelength tells me that the green LEDs should be more of an emerald green (like the cruise control display) rather than a straight-out-of-the-80's faded green.
Next in Line for Colored Instruments done by Me:
- DisneyBug - Pink! What else?
.addicted2sp33d (Judee's Chauffeur)