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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Actually VCDS calls it a gong on the instrument cluster output test, but this is actually a speaker that is located inside the instrument cluster. In most cars this would be a plug in module in the fuse box, but for the Beetle it is a speaker and the cluster generates the different tones and durations that the car uses. This lets you know the feed me light is on, the headlights are left on as you leave the car, your seatbelt is not buckled, or you left the key in the ignition and opened the door.

If you can solder, have basic hand tools, and can find a speaker (eBay) it takes about an hour to replace it. The original speaker is mounted in a plastic clip. The speaker is attached to two pins that go to the circuit board and help hold the speaker/clip in. After playing with it, I cut the old speaker off the board, attached two wires to the pins, ran the wire through the white rear cover, and attached the speaker outside the cluster. If it ever goes bad again, makes it easy to replace.

1. Remove the cluster. Disconnect the battery, pull the black plastic rounded front cover off. Remove the two torx screws on each side of the cluster, carefuly slide it forward and turn slightly to the left. You should be able to disconnect the right plug, then the left plug and remove the cluster.

2. Remove the small screws on the edges of the white rear cover and carefully pull it off. There was a sticker saying no user servicable parts inside. The speaker looks like this:




3. Remove the old speaker. I just kinda pulled it off the white plastic clip.


4. Then I cut the plastic clip and removed it. Leave the two pins that the speaker was attached to. That's where we will atach the wires. I used a small two conductor stranded speaker wire. I stripped, wrapped and then soldered a wire to each pin.





5. Here is the new speaker and the old one. You can see where the pins were soldered to the speaker. Resistance check confirmed the old speaker was open.



6. I connected the two wires and ran them through the vents on the white cover.



7. Solder the new speaker t the leads. I like Sn63 solder because it is idiot proof (eutectic).


8. Reinstall the cluster. Notice that the speaker has to be low so that it is not smashed by the cluster. There is a post on the cluster that goes in the hole for support. There is room down low. If you used wires about 6 inches long the speaker will sit down below the cluster.

Let me know if you have questions, I'll help you where I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The new speaker is 29mm 8 ohm, .25w from eBay was $4 for two of them. Old speaker was 8 ohms, .1w. Not sure if that low power was what caused it to blow. I actually bought a used cluster and removed the old speaker from it, but it was blown as well.
 

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Thanks so much for posting this N41EF. My warning buzzer had stopped working so I performed this DIY today. Now the headlight warning is back again and my wife is happy!

I opted to replace the speaker back into its original location, so I will add onto the DIY with my modification. The speaker used in the cluster is intended for use in headphones so they are readily available on ebay and such in pairs for a few dollars. The specs for the original are:

29 mm diameter
9.5 mm thick
8 ohms
0.1 watts

The thickness can be up to 10 mm and the power rating should be 0.1 watts or higher (mine were 0.25 watt).

I removed the old speaker by prying it out from under the plastic tangs that hold it to the white plastic mount, breaking the electrical connection in the process. Then I squeezed the three mounting feet to free the speaker mount from the circuit board. I then melted the solder on the speaker connections to free the mount from the wires. Here is a photo with the mounting feet circled:

Electronics Technology Electronic component Electrical network Electronic engineering

Next I cut 2 pieces of 22 gauge wire 1.5 inches long and stripped about 1/4 inch of insulation from each end. Here are the speaker mount, the new speaker and the wire pieces:



Unsolder the leads from the old speaker from the board and solder in one end of the short wires:

Electronics Electronic component Electronic engineering Technology Product

Put the speaker holder over the wires and push it back into the board. Solder on the new speaker:

Product Electronics Auto part

Push the speaker down into the holder:

Product Electronics Technology Auto part

Put it all back together and you have the speaker in the original location.
 

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Just did this the other day, but I really did it the hard way! I went so far as to remove the needles from the front face and had just the circuit board in hand. Did solder removal and new wire installation front the front side of the circuit board for a speaker I found at Radio Shack for 4 or 5 dollars. It happened to also be a .1W speaker that sounds, if my memory from about 9 years ago serves me right, to be much quieter than original. Is there a setting to change in the Instrument section of my Vag-Com? Thanks for the write-up, even though I found it after finishing the job!
 

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Actually VCDS calls it a gong on the instrument cluster output test, but this is actually a speaker that is located inside the instrument cluster. In most cars this would be a plug in module in the fuse box, but for the Beetle it is a speaker and the cluster generates the different tones and durations that the car uses. This lets you know the feed me light is on, the headlights are left on as you leave the car, your seatbelt is not buckled, or you left the key in the ignition and opened the door.

If you can solder, have basic hand tools, and can find a speaker (eBay) it takes about an hour to replace it. The original speaker is mounted in a plastic clip. The speaker is attached to two pins that go to the circuit board and help hold the speaker/clip in. After playing with it, I cut the old speaker off the board, attached two wires to the pins, ran the wire through the white rear cover, and attached the speaker outside the cluster. If it ever goes bad again, makes it easy to replace.

1. Remove the cluster. Disconnect the battery, pull the black plastic rounded front cover off. Remove the two torx screws on each side of the cluster, carefuly slide it forward and turn slightly to the left. You should be able to disconnect the right plug, then the left plug and remove the cluster.

2. Remove the small screws on the edges of the white rear cover and carefully pull it off. There was a sticker saying no user servicable parts inside. The speaker looks like this:




3. Remove the old speaker. I just kinda pulled it off the white plastic clip.


4. Then I cut the plastic clip and removed it. Leave the two pins that the speaker was attached to. That's where we will atach the wires. I used a small two conductor stranded speaker wire. I stripped, wrapped and then soldered a wire to each pin.





5. Here is the new speaker and the old one. You can see where the pins were soldered to the speaker. Resistance check confirmed the old speaker was open.



6. I connected the two wires and ran them through the vents on the white cover.



7. Solder the new speaker t the leads. I like Sn63 solder because it is idiot proof (eutectic).


8. Reinstall the cluster. Notice that the speaker has to be low so that it is not smashed by the cluster. There is a post on the cluster that goes in the hole for support. There is room down low. If you used wires about 6 inches long the speaker will sit down below the cluster.

Let me know if you have questions, I'll help you where I can.
====================================================================================

I would love to see these pictures, do you still have them? I have same problem in my 2001 GLS...


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