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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This was done on my 2001 beetle. Should apply to other Mk4 beetles. If you attempt the job and have any hiccups, feel free to contact me by email ( [email protected] ) and I will do all I can to help.

Tools required:
- Phillips head screwdriver (#2, preferably)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- T20 torx bit (Most of the screws are phillips, but there are a few T20s in there too - Can't remember all of which ones, but if you have the bit ready, you'll be prepared.)
- 17mm socket/ratchet
- Hook tool (just a 90 degree will do, but I like to have a 45 degree as well)
- Plastic trim finishing prybar (although you can use your hands mostly)
- Can of air duster or a compressor and spray hose. Either will do.
-Flashlight (optional)

Parts required:
1C0-877-236-A x 2. These are your rear drain hoses.
1C0-877-201-B x 2. These are your front drain hoses.

Both parts are frequently listed as either 'right' or 'left'. There is no difference. You just need 2 of each of those part #s. I sourced from expressoemparts.com. If either of your front drain hoses shows up with a kink in it ***DO NOT USE IT!!!*** Return it and only use hoses that have no kinks. Any kink in the hose will eventually lead to clogging/blockage. ONLY use an unkinked hose.

Process:

***Disclaimer*** - I removed my entire headliner, as I needed to replace my antenna base and remove my busted-ass sunshade as well. I also wanted to do exploratory surgery to figure out where all this this stuff was routed, since I couldn't find a good tutorial on it (hence my adding this one). I also needed to get to my rear drains out to find a part #, rather than guessing based on a schematic drawing, when ordering replacements.

The process I'm going to detail is much easier than what I did. You will be dropping the front of the headliner first and replacing the front drain tubes. Then you will reassemble the front, drop the back of the headliner and replace the rear tubes. This is a FAR easier method than removing/reinstalling the entire headliner.

1.Remove cloth-covered interior window gasket.
- Pull the trailing edge away from the plastic trim panel (Either A-Pillar or B-Pillar - doesn't matter which side you start on) and just pop the lip. Once part of it is free, you can just yank the whole thing.

2. Remove sun visors.
- The hinge of each sun visor is secured with one phillips head screw, hidden by a plastic facade. Use one of your hook tools (I prefer the 45 degree) to remove the facade and access the screw. Once the screw is loose, the hinge will pivot out from a retaining hook which points toward the rear of the vehicle. Now you must unclip the electrical connection to the vanity mirror light. Hook tool is your friend.

3. Remove sun visor retainers.
- There is a small divet in the plastic cover of the retainer (facing the rear of the car). Pry this off using your hook tool and two phillips head screws will be exposed. It will take a bit of force to remove the cover.

4. Remove passenger roof handle and driver sunglasses holder (same process)
- Pry the plastic facade off of either side of these two components to expose 2 phillips head screws. Plastic facade is attached and hinged.
- Remove the two phillips head screws and the retainer will come free. The screws may get hung up in the fabric of the headliner. If so, just be gentle in wiggling them free.

5. ***OPTIONAL*** Remove sunroof control and clock/thermometer HUD.
- Only do this if you REALLY need the extra room. It is a pain in the ass that should be avoided if necessary.
Pry the sunroof switch cover panel off with either your hooktool or plastic prybar, prying from the section of headliner between the panel and the sunroof. Let it hang free.
Remove the 2 T20 screws.
Pry Clock/Thermometer HUD with either your hook tool or plastic prybar. Let it hang free.
You can also pop the rear view mirror off of its ball joint, using a bit of the ol' elbow grease.

You will need to perform this step if you opt for removing the entire headliner (AGAIN - NOT RECOMMENDED).

If you're just a glutton for punishment and want to remove the entire headliner, follow these additional steps:

- Remove electrical connection to Clock/Thermometer HUD.
- Angle HUD so that it can pass up through the headliner.
- Angle the rear view mirror, removed from its ball joint (and hanging by its electrical wiring - for the dome light) so it can pass up through the headliner.
- Angle the sunroof switch panel so that it can pass up through the headliner.

Seriously... ONLY do this step if removing the sun visors and roof handles doesn't provide enough space for your apparently ginormous hands to reach in and pull the drain hose. It is not fun to get these pieces back in.

6. Remove A-Pillar plastic trim panels - same process both sides.
- Pry carefully toward the opposite side of the car, from the top of the trim panel. I would recommend using your fingertips and some finesse for this step, rather than a tool. It is held in by a few plastic clips along the pillar, and secured by two guide pins at the base.
- Once the plastic clips are free, tilt the panel down onto the dash, facing the opposite side of the car. Be gentle when unseating the guide pins. They are fragile. Your tweeter speaker is also wired into this panel, so...
- DO NOT YANK THE PANEL. There is, however, plenty of slack in the tweeter wire for you to simply rest the panel on the upper dash.

The front corners of the headliner will now hang freely enough that you should easily be able to reach the drain hose and its upper access hole into the A-Pillar.

7. Watch my video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4V9QomGEPhg
- Here I clearly show you where the front hose is routed.

8. Remove old front drain hose - same process both sides.
- Gently twist and pull the bottom of the hose out of the grommet that leads into your upper engine bay.
- Twist the top of the drain hose (female) off of the sunroof drain (male).
- Pull the hose out of the A-pillar, from the top.

9. Ensure that drain grommet is not obstructed.
You can do this using either air or water.
You can replace the female end of the hose in the grommet and pour water into it, then checking your strut tower for fresh water flow.
OR you can just shoot air through it, using either your air duster or compressor and air hose. If the grommet it clear, you will see whatever dust and gunk is accumulated above your strut towers, blowing out the vents of the wiper motor facade.

10. Install new front drain hose - same process bother sides.
-BE VERY GENTLE - do not force the hose at any point!!! As mentioned previously, any kinks developed in the hose WILL eventually cause blockage/clogging.
- Insert female end of hose in the top access hole on the A-pillar and snake it down. You will have to twist it around a few times to clear obstacles (inaccessible) within the A-pillar.
- Once the hose clears the bottom access hole on the A-Pillar, hook the female end using your 90 degree hook tool and snake it out the access hole.
- Twist the female end of the hose into the drain grommet until it is firmly seated. You will feel the grommet grab the hose and it will be clearly secured.
- Twist male end of hose onto sunroof drain until secure.

11. Repeat previous steps in reverse, replacing front headliner and accessory trim.

12. Remove center rear roof trim panel.
- Use either your fingertips or plastic prybar for this. Be gentle. There are 5 (male) metal clips on the inside of the panel which secure to female counterparts on the roof.

13. Remove C-Pillar plastic trim panels - same process both sides.
- Pop up the hinged plastic cover on your rear seatbelt top harness (the part connected to the trim panel). This will expose a bolt.
-Remove bolt using your 17mm socket and ratchet. The seatbelt top harness will now hang free.
-Remove screw at top center of each panel. I can't remember if this was phillips or T20, but if you have the tools detailed, you will be prepared either way.
-Recline rear seat back. This will facilitate final removal of trim panel.
-Pop panel off. It is held in by the same kind of plastic clips as the A-pillar panel.

The rear of the headliner will now hang freely. There are 3 soft male clips on the back of it, which rest in female metal loops in the roof. You will need to make sure these are replaced properly when reinstalling the center rear roof trim panel.

If you still have ginormous hands and need more room at this point, or if you are removing the entire headliner, you will want to remove the B-Pillar plastic trim panel...

- Pop plastic facade off of clothes-hanger hook above hand-loop at top of B-Pillar.
- Remove phillips head screw that retains clothes-hanger hook, and remove the hook. It will hang down.
- Remove the phillips head screw directly above the one mentioned above, and the hand-loop structure will be removed. There might have been a couple more phillips head screws in there too. Sorry. I forget. Hopefully this step will be superfluous anyway.
- Follow the same seatbelt top harness removal steps as above, to remove your front seatbelt top harness.
- Using your fingertips and finesse, pry the B-Pillar plastic trim panel off, from the top, prying toward the opposite side of the car.

If you need to replace your antenna base, now would be the time.

14. Watch my other video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ir80rbi06TA
Here I clearly show you where the rear drain hose is routed.

15. Remove rear drain hoses - same process both sides.
- Pop the trunk.
- Release the female end of the hose from the male drain tube.
- Pop the plastic clip off of the end of the hose, inside the trunk frame. Note that that bottom of this cover has a divet in it. This is where the water actually drains out.
- Using your fingertips or one of your hooktools, pop the end of the drain hose out of the trunk frame, and pull the drain tube straight out.

16. Replace rear drain tube - same process both sides.
-Insert female end of drain hose back through the access hole in the trunk panel.
- Twist/push female end back onto male sunroof drain.
- Secure the end of the hose into the trunk panel access hole.
-Replace plastic cover. I would recommend not leaving this off. Plenty of dust blows into the trunk frame. This plastic cover appears to help keep that dust from blowing into, and thus clogging, the rear drain tubes. ***Make sure that the divet I mentioned in step 15 is facing down when you replace this cover!!!***

17. Repeat steps 16-12 in reverse

I hope my excessive proofreading/editing helps to make the process clear, if not overly detailed. Again, feel free to contact me if you need help. Thanks for reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I would highly recommend doing it preventively rather than waiting for them to start leaking.
 

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Good write up. Did mine yesterday. I just removed the front grommet at bottom of dash and rear rubber tube. I cut the flaps out and refit them. Putting a cable tie on each one. Then cleaned the gut out under the skuttle tray( wiper blades)! Mine was full of leaf and dirt

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 
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