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←Blue or Purple?
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you push the button on your key to open your trunk and you get a "click-click-click" noise before the trunk opens or no response at all. You are prolley looking at replacing the rear hatch actuator.
It's a fairly simple procedure that will take about 30mins to and hour to do. Why the range in time? Well even though it's a simple replacement procedure, there are some tricks in the process that can hang some people up.
This How-to will hopefully clear all this up so you won't have the same troubles. Or a $100 dealer reciept in hand :)

Tools::
1 Torx driver
1 Phillips Screwdriver
Your remote key
1 $29.90 rear lid actuator *(Part #: 3B0 959 781 C)

*<-this will change depending on the version, my original one was a B and mexican. The new one was German and hopefully of better quality
 

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&#8592;Blue or Purple?
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Hatch Trim Removal

First I took of the interior trim of the hatch. Which is removed by 2 phillips screws which are located in the handle holds. Shown in the pic below:

Don't be surprised if it doesn't come off immeadiately. It is held in place by a series of snap clips and hooked in at the base of the window by 2 tongs that slide into little oval holes. All this insures a tight fit and no rattling. If any of hte corded strips around the edge of the trim fall off be sure to apply them back with some glue. These strips keep the plastic from rubbing/rattling against the metal of the hatch. Never had a problem, but all the same you want them there!
 

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&#8592;Blue or Purple?
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Disassembly and Removal

Once you have the interior trim from the hatch removed. You can see clearly how the remote actuator operates.
The latch for the hatch is in two pieces and holds itself in place by clamping onto the hatch lid by screwing them together by 3 torx screws. The connectors that connect to the actuator, the lockplate sensor and a contact switch need to be disconnected in order to remove that bracket that holds them in place.

Before you start, I want to point out to NOT remove the pin that holds the lock cylinder together. If you take this out the lock cylinder that you stick your key into will come apart. This will save you hours of trying to figure out exactly how it goes back together. (As what happened to me!) Assembly of this piece IS NOT covered in the service manual so your on your own here!

Unhook the lock carrier linkage (pull straight down from he brass lever that is connected to the lock cylinder, it just snaps off, some force is needed) [highlight]Make a Note of how many threads are showing on the lock carrier linkage rod.[/highlight] This adjusts how much push is applied by acuator to unlock the lockplate. If after assembly you are having problems with deck lid staying latched when bumped or vibrated on the road. The linkage arm is to long. and you should shorten it a couple of threads to keep slight vibrations from popping the rear lid. (I had to adjust this a couple times after reassembly)

Unscrew the 3 phillips screws that holds the wiring in place and remove by wiggling the bracket out and let it hang by the wires.

Unscrew the 3 torx screws in the VW lockcylinder and handle piece and detach the water drainage hose. (Extra set of hands are nice here) Carefully remove lock cylinder and handle from the inside of the hatch and remove the flip lid from the outside.


Once you got the VW handle out you will be able to see how the actuator is attatched to it. and see that it comes out in 2 pieces. The flip lid on the outside of the car and the handle comes out on the inside. I recommend getting an extra set of hands for help on this one as you don't want the pieces sliding down the side of the car damaging your paintjob.
 

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&#8592;Blue or Purple?
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Replacement of Rear lid actuator

The Actuator comes out easily by two long phillips screws. Take it out record part number on piece of paper and call your local VW dealer for a replacement.

After that just reassemble and your good to go.

Just remember to hook the water drainage hose for the VW flip lid handle and reattach the lock carrier linkage after assembly.

Also I made a little video of the new actuator doing it's job with trim removed. I must say it's so much nicer to have my remote trunk release back :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFJ8JkfFF60
 

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Has anyone reassembled the lock cylinder portion? I stupidly pulled the pin so I could take off that brown arm because I couldn't get the entire assembly through the hole in the hatch and now I can't get the cylinder to go back together quite right. I can force the pin back through but the arm is now quite stiff and there's no way the actuator is going to turn it.
 
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