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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I traded my 2000 beetle for a 1955 Chevy 5 years ago and now I'm back with a '04 beetle. The battery was shot when I bought the car, jumped it and brought it home. Replaced the battery and she fired right up. Window motor is shot so I removed it and cleaned the contacts to the hatch button and fuel door while I had door panel off. Changed oil and replaced battery in key fob and now it will not start. It cranks fine but I don't hear any noise from the fuel pump like it should. All fuses are good but the horn fuse blew after a test toot. I am lost and quite bummed over this. Help!! I regret buying this car already....going back to my model A. Thanks for any ideas you all may have.
 

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Are you sure that the problem with the horn is the fuse? The horn operates through a set of contacts in the ignition switch, so it could indicate a problem with the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The key is loose and sloppy when I insert into the switch, have to wiggle it and move the steering wheel sometimes but it turns and cranks. I sanded and filed the hatch release and gas door button contacts, neither one worked but after a cleaning, they came back to life. I disconnected the window motor, the regulator is shot, went back into the door panel and re-connected it thinking that might be the problem. Disconnected battery and held pos and neg together for a minute. No go, car w/ key on instrument cluster goes out so I am lost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I made a big mistake buying this car...check the classifieds, $1200 2004 auto, loaded, red, 1 small ding in door. I will set fire to this car if no response. Thanks for reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your reply red99, I removed the window motor and buttoned up the door panel and that's where the no-start situation started, so I put the motor back in to see if it would start. No luck so I held the + and _ terminals together, still no go, so I left the ignition on for about an hour, went to try and no-start. I pulled the battery out and that is where I gave up. I pressed on the tire stem valve looking thing on the fuel rail and got gas. I'll try later when my fingernails grow back :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well, I had to try that and it is a NO-GO, shes getting cheaper by the minute...or it goes to the junkyard on Monday, I have too many cars to mess with this POS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I sure appreciate the help 99, I tried starting with door closed & seat belt on. Manually locked and unlocked door. I ordered a scan tool and crank position sensor after cooling down last night. Thanks again! I'll let you know what I find. Also, I didn't mention the battery was the original and the previous owner had been jump starting the car before I bought it. I read that the battery swap may throw off the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Eureka!! After tearing out the air pump and getting a feel on the PCS nut...forget seeing it, I pulled the coil pack out and looky here, if you can see the corrosion down in the connection, 2nd one. And see the broken edges? That's where I tore into it with a screwdriver to pry the wires off. Looks like the top of a corroded battery. I'll stop where i'm at and order this bargain of a coil pack.
 

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Coil packs going bad are quite common. Hopefully that is the only cause for your no start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a gut feeling this is just the tip of this iceberg :( It fired up in a millisecond when I test drove it. The P.O. drove it 10 miles for me while I followed him back to my house and it purred, then i went for a new battery. It fired right up with new battery and I moved the car 100 feet, shut it off and that was all she wrote. 2 center contacts on the coil being corroded but the other two fine, I would think it would fire up and run half crappy instead of just a hopeless, steady crank. Thanks again for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, tossing parts at it, that coil, wires, CPsensor, all for naught. Scan tool read 01738 and after re-scanning the car, i get linking error. Wiggled the 409 relay and get a 2 second hum. No hum or ding when I open the door, but get a normal looking speedo light up, and the tach does not move when cranked still. Found a lot of corrosion on the nuts to the big red wires at the relay panel, cleaned that. I'm tired and cut up real good, out of ideas, back to driving the '30 model A and I cant go any further with this VW. The previous owner will thank his lucky stars to get rid of this car and I got to drive 100 feet before it died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
fuses 29, 32, 34, 43

My fuse check was good but I didn't check for power to each fuse. Results after checking ECM plugs under dash all looked good. I find fuses 29, 32, 34 and 43 have no voltage. I hope this gets me further along, I ordered a 409 relay, just in case. What causes this and how can I fix it?? Thanks for any ideas, this has got to be my problem.
 

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Those fuses are all powered through the 409 fuel pump relay. As I pointed out in my earlier post there is an interaction between the door latch and the fuel pump relay. Does the puddle light on the door come on when the door is open? If not, you could have a problem with the sensor in the door latch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I replied to the door latch/window motor plugged and unplugged with no change, all connections to my door are now disconnected. I sure hope the 409 relay is at fault. Interaction with the door latch, between 409 and the ECM? Like the previous thread guy, its unplugged. I don't know what a puddle light is, but no light comes on when I open the door, I only have a red blinking one on the stereo.
 

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There is a door controller microprocessor built into the power window motor. It communicates with the central comfort controller and ECU via CAN bus. The switches and sensors in the door such as the mirrors, windows, locks and door latch are wired to the door controller. By disconnecting the window motor you have broken the communications link between the door controller and the ECU.

The ECU does pay attention to the state of the door latch because it will turn on the fuel pump for 1 second when the door is opened. The previous post indicates that if the ECU cannot determine the state of the door latch (opened or closed) then it could prevent the fuel pump from running.

The puddle lights are the ones on the inside of the door panels. The easiest way to determine if the latch is working is to look for operation of these lights. See this for more info about the door latch:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...ms-new-beetle/59654-door-latch-resources.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
What a job, I must say, but it was another turd hunt, there is not one spot of cracked solder on this unit, nor is there a microprocessor in the window motor, 4 hours into this and now I cant for the life of me, remember how to get the manual door lock rod to hook up to the latch assembly. In your thread you mention '02 and newer not having this problem? My car is a 2004.... parts fell away like the piece that holds the key lock to the door, and it slipped over the plastic thing. ECM and dash panels off and strewn about the car along with today's door panel, looking more like a repeating F'in nightmare that really has me so distraught right now, I cant friggin think straight. Yesterday, I took a nice drive in my 85 year old model A Ford to forget this fine example of todays modern wonder, and if I could justify calling the junkyard without feeling like I really got beat, I would do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Today I found the new coil has plenty of ohms at the pin connection, and all good at the connector in my wiring harness but nothing at the plug wire connections. I tested #1 to #4 and #2 to #3 with zero ohms. Defective new coil pack. Picking up another at Advance auto in the A.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
The parts toss game has ended with a whopping tally of ECM, ignition switch, all relays, plug wires, Coolant temp sender, 2 coils and a pair of CPSensors. Am I missing anything? No codes, no tach, no start. I get 1.68 volts from the wires going to the CPS with key on. Musta got defective parts, huh :mad:
 
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