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Discussion Starter #1
2001 2.0 beetle aeg engine code

Well got the new fuel pump in and bam, she gets gas and its working now and not blowing any fuses. But guess what still wont gd turn over. Im truly about to take parts off of it and sell it and call zee junkyard to come pick it up. I really do want to get her up and running but running out of patience and money. Parts replaced as follows

New tb
New fuel pump
New fuel filter

I know for a fact shes getting fuel up top now to the injectors with the proper pressure. I decided to check all my fuses to see if the main engine ones are getting 12v thru them and they are. Me and my friend decided to take the plug and wire out and see if we are getting any spark and its not. This lead me to try and diagnose the coil pack, I noticed very faint hairline fractures on the back (cant wet test it since car wont start) I tested the harness not hooked into coil and the #2 plug is getting 12v. When I hook the plug back into the coil its not getting any readings at all across the 4 points (no volt readings at all). Ive heard the 2.0 coils are rare when they fail and almost never would make the car not start. Theres zero codes and the rpm gauge is moving slightly so its not the crank sensor.

Im truly calling all gurus here to help me diagnose her cuz shes really running out of time and her time is coming fast when shes gonna get crushed. Plzzzzzz Plzzzzzzz help a fellow dubber!
 

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wasn't there a recall on the coil packs?
Assume this is the recall you're refering to as it is the only one I know of
Coil Pack “Recall”
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/52462-ignition-coils-2003-beetle-keep-going-out.html#post756835
But guess what still wont gd turn over.
IT won't turn over or it won't fire? I think you mean it's cranking (turning over), but won't fire.
Me and my friend decided to take the plug and wire out and see if we are getting any spark and its not. This lead me to try and diagnose the coil pack, I noticed very faint hairline fractures on the back (cant wet test it since car wont start) I tested the harness not hooked into coil and the #2 plug is getting 12v. When I hook the plug back into the coil its not getting any readings at all across the 4 points (no volt readings at all). Ive heard the 2.0 coils are rare when they fail and almost never would make the car not start. Theres zero codes and the rpm gauge is moving slightly so its not the crank sensor.

Im truly calling all gurus here to help me diagnose her cuz shes really running out of time and her time is coming fast when shes gonna get crushed. Plzzzzzz Plzzzzzzz help a fellow dubber!
Have no clue what your talking about about getting 12v at plug #2. You test a coil pack by measuring resistance. Here's the basic test -
How to Check Coil Packs With a Voltage Meter | eHow.com

What made you think those other components were bad, diagnostic tests, or are you doing diagnostics by trial and miss replacemnt? Frustrating (as you are) and expensive. Was this done simply to try to get it to fire, or were there other issues, prior to the not firing? Not sure how you tested the fuel pressure without the proper diagnostic equipment. It seems if you had the proper equipment and knowledge you wouldn't be asking the questions your asking. Not that asking is a bad thing, it's not, that's what the forums are for. Proper pressure testing can also determine if the fuel rail or fuel injector seals are leaking. Seems what you have done, may be premature to having the coil operating properly, and it sounds as if it's toast. But again, test it, don't simply replace it, hoping that's what it is.

MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Assume this is the recall you're refering to as it is the only one I know of
Coil Pack “Recall”
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/52462-ignition-coils-2003-beetle-keep-going-out.html#post756835

IT won't turn over or it won't fire? I think you mean it's cranking (turning over), but won't fire.

Have no clue what your talking about about getting 12v at plug #2. You test a coil pack by measuring resistance. Here's the basic test -
How to Check Coil Packs With a Voltage Meter | eHow.com

MORAV

wont fire sorry, shes cranking all day long but wont fire. I was testing to make sure the coil was getting any voltage to the harness to see if it wasnt a wire that was bad somewhere else. Ill do the coil test to see tomorrow morning and go from there. Also the reason i replaced the tb was do to codes it was throwing, fuel pump needed to replace since it was dead, i had the fuel pressure tester hooked up today and its up to par, its getting fuel and air just no spark to turn it over. That why i was thinking its possible coil pack, lol and ya i def just dont throw money at it thats for sure, its just when one thing gets fixed i find another. Basically this all started per my friend when it just stop firing up 1 day, would crank but not start. Ran codes on it and everything pointed to the tb so we put a new one on and no codes anymore, then we noticed the pump wasnt priming and no fuel was being delivered along with the fuel pump fuse blowing. So new pump and now no more fuses blown and getting fuel and proper pressure up front. Thats when we tried to see if it was sparking and sure enough no spark on any of the plugs. Ive just never heard of a coil causing the whole gd car to not start thats why im so stumped. Ill do the actual resistance test tomorrow on the coil pack and go from there. Def not gonna just buy stuff with hopes of it being that.
 

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Hope my post helps. I didn't realize you were on the thread and I may have added to it after you read it.

M.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hope my post helps. I didn't realize you were on the thread and I may have added to it after you read it.

M.
lol all good was just letting you know what ive done so far, im just so used to working on american cars that are a hell of alot easier to fix than these german cars, i really wanna get this thing going and drive the hell out of it!

Also ref the coil pack testing i remember i actually did that, I took the actual top of the pack off and individually tested the spark plug prongs to the actual 3 female inserts (tested them all) got no readings for resistance on any of them, maybe i was doing it wrong which could have happened since i was tired and mad (things always mess up when you get mad) but if things are not getting reading could it be a bad coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm trying to find you a little more VW 2.0 specific coil testing.

A real ggod read here, over on the Vortex, in the OPer's original post here -
VWVortex.com - VW Coil Pack/Ignition Coil Guide (Post #1)

And another down the thread, here -
VWVortex.com - VW Coil Pack/Ignition Coil Guide (Post #17)

Haven't read through the entire thread, but you might want to.

M.
lol read that page much earlier today when googling around, its were i got my 2.0 coil pack rare breaking, i did notice 4 hairline fractures on the back though
 

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I think you have to look at the percentages. I usually do that and find that I am routinely correct. If you feel you need to replace something run it by us and well give you our thoughts. Sometimes the burden of knowledge can steer you in the wrong direction.

Since you're not getting spark I would focus on the ignition coil, go to a junk yard and grab one for 5$ just to see if it works then you can run from there. You might also want to check your crank angle sensor although im not sure if you would get spark if that went kaput (damn I need to stop posting when im so tired :) )

Whenever I cant get power I check the battery terminals (your turning so it probably isn't that although it could be) Make sure your battery is working properly.

Since you just replaced something I then check for ground, there is a diagram with grounding points floating around here somewhere.


When I FIRST got my beetle the ECU died and it did something similar but I don't know if it got spark or not, I wasn't terribly knowledgeable about cars then.
 

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The 2.0 liters (AEG) also have a coil control module; it might be the control module is bad or there is a problem with the wire harness.

To test the wire harness disconnect the coil control module and check the voltage on pins 2 and 4 with a multi-meter, it should read 12 volts. If the voltage test fails, check the wire harness; using the multi-meter connect pin 2 to fuse 29 (in the fuse panel). It should read no more than 1.5 ohms.

There are tests to check the module itself, but if the tests above pass, then the problem is with the control module, not a cheap part I know; if it were me I would replace the coil and control module.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well tested coil and she works and getting spark now the sob isn't getting fuel to rail, this is what I get for letting friend test pressure. Question is now that I know fuel is going to rail ( I took off line and fed into bucket and it filled up so fuel is getting to rail but then stopping there. Wtf is going on
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just tested the fuse panel for the injector. Fuse 32 and one side is getting voltage of about 10-11 when cranking the other side is only getting 3v. Wy isn't the fuse panel getting equal volts on each side and could that be a cause and my rpm gauge doesn't fluctuate at all when trying to start.

I just looked at the rpm gauge again and it goes to the first . And barely barely moves when cranking uggg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I doubt the RPM needle will register anything during the crank/start process. With the difficulty that you are having the CEL light should be on. Can your NB be scanned for codes?
No codes are showing at all, cel doesn't come on until after I stop cranking
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Lmfao omfg well I said fuk it and dug into the ignition well 1 wire the power ignition wire was melted exposed nasty looking so into it now trying to fix woot hopefully it will work

could the infamous red wire thats always known to melt really cause the switch to possibly all together go bad and not start the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
lol well for 25 bucks for a oem isnt to bad, it was wierd i kinda macguyver it and i heard the fuel pump relay and the 37 relay next to it start clicking when i tiuch the wire back to it. wtf is that notorious red wire #30 below the #75 pin run for this thing to melt or what not, the fuse box on the battery which is connected to it is a lil burnt but not bad and still reading 12v on the other side of the box. That fuse box is a lil pricey and dont want to get that if i dont have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So guys i decided to buy a oem ignition, oem plug and oem crank shaft position sensor. Did the crank shaft sensor since i figured lets order it and if its not needed ill send it back, better to have something and not need it rather than need it and not have it. hopefully she will come back to life!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hi there
before you started did you remove the battery ?
battery was dead so had to, the battery wont trip the key up and if it did it would have started and immediately shut off so i know the key isnt the problem.
 
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