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Discussion Starter #1
It have noticed a rash of questions on vacuum lines or at least questions about other issues that bring the question of vacuum lines up.

So I have decided to make an official post on this in here.

The stock 4mm vacuum lines on all of our engines are natural rubber wrapped in cotten. While this was seriously high-tech back in the 60's it is outdated garbage now. It does not with stand heat well and dryrots. Thusly cracking and causing many vacuum leaks which result in poor ideling, loss of power, drop in mpg etc.

There is however a simple and inexspensive solution. Replace it with a quality silicone tubing. Silicone withstands heat, does not dryrot and will stand up to much more abuse. The kicker is that the thin wall junk sold at autozone etc isnt worth putting in our cars because it collapses. You need to make sure to get the "Good" stuff.

So here are the locations that I have found that carry the best silicone tubing.

www.hosetechnique.com

This is what I have on Pomelo but its a pain to order from them direct.

http://www.samcosport.com/us/vaccum.asp

just order about 6 feet of 4mm and that will cover all of your lines :)

www.ecstuning.com

They carry the hosetechnique under thier own name ;)


Now I'm sure you are wondering which lines to replace. Well on the 1.8T I can make that very easy for you simply by showing you a picture of my engine with the el cheapo autozone kit on it. The hoses are blue so they stand out. However they couldnt handle the heat and collapsed after the car warmed up. I have had no such issues with the hosetechnique.

Oh ya and don't forget the one going from the N75 valve to the turbo actuater on the back of the engine like I did. I just found that today and it was in appalling shape.... DOH!! :lol:
 

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Beetle Cup racer
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Excelent idea for a thread FOWVAY !!!

And super clean engine bay......!!!

now using the same pic Ill add more info....


Very often you will get a "secondary air pump incorrect flow" 0411 the secondary air pump is the green thing marked with a 4 check the hoses for leaks and very important check the RED hose that go over the top of the engine and goes down to the side and attaches to a silver part the size and shape of a mini cup cake (that one is very often the bad one) NUMBER 1
The yellow one marked with 2 is the vacuum valve check if this one fails the car will not accelerate as before or will brake badly or BOTH.
Number 3 is the N75 that in that place cooks its hoses to oblivion in 2 or 3 years, change the hoses before thay fail.

There is a guy in Mexico name "el CHAPO" Guzman a very dangerous drug dealer who has escaped twice from jail and one from a High security jail, he is the master of "leaks"
My Bug has been named "the chapo" for the same reason, those hoses cook themselves to oblivion and more so in turbo engines....

BTW, great wheels FOWVAY!!!
 

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Twizzler
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You mention 4mm hose but the ECS site only mentions 3.5mm did you mean 3.5 or is it 4 but ECS does not sell it?? Also how do you get the y connections, are they sold that way, I only see straight bulk tubing sold by the foot. Just to be sure, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
fohveh said:
You mention 4mm hose but the ECS site only mentions 3.5mm did you mean 3.5 or is it 4 but ECS does not sell it?? Also how do you get the y connections, are they sold that way, I only see straight bulk tubing sold by the foot. Just to be sure, thanks.
3.5mm works just as well and doesnt require any clamps since it fits more snugly on the nipple.. mmmm that sounded dirty :)

The Y's are created with T-fittings I suggest replacing those as well. I just tonight snapped one (while changing plugs) and thankfully had aa spare in the garage. They get quite brittle with age.
 

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Ill add a ot more info on this since the main problem with Vw seems to be the hoses and small troubles caused by them,
Instead of making another thread Why dont we change this thread title to Problem with Beetle READ THIS FIRST?

well lets get to it.

My bug has had all kinds of mini troubles, not the ones that leave you stranded by the road but lots of small Cel (check engine) lights events that drive you nutz so after another one I decided to dismantle the hole thing and find out the problems.

To understand a lot of troubles let see the main parts of the hose forest on a 1.8 turbo:

1 diverter valve In thi scase is an aftermarket one the original is black.
2.-Air intake Hose Red but the original is also black.
3.-Diverter valve presure hose.
4. N75 valve or turbo-wastegate valve actuator (has 2 small hoses going and its plugged to the intake hose.
5.-Fuel presure regulator.
6.-Boost/vacuum chck valve.
7.- N710 hose
8.-N710 valve
9.-MAF (mass airflow sensor)
10.- Seconday airpump return hose.
 

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Lets start with the easy ones today and Ill add a lot more later.

Sometimes yor Bug looses power, it feels lethargic and not as fast and crispy as before, but you dont have a check engine light NOTHING. The car is slower and wont accelerate as before..... YOU HAVE A LEAK SOMEWHERE.

The problem with our engines is that at full throttle they push 10 to 12 psi and if you are chipped you go somewhere bewteen 12 and 19 PSI thats a lot of pressure!!! so our tiny hoses go the way of the dodo, they crack and have small holes and then presure drops and the turbo fun stops...:(

In my case the hose from the top of the turbo steel tube had a BIG BROKEN PART and the pressure was leaking and the presure would never pass 5 psi you can see that in the picture...
 

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Leaks in this part are difficult to spot and to repair because some of them are not visible, just under the presure of the turbo they open up and fail.

For leaks of this kind check:

Both hoses that go into the Diverter valve (see pic how my hose looks as if it went on a trip to Afganisthan!), check the hoses going to the N75, a broken hose here or a failing hose will throw a cel or will make the car a slowpoke., also check the small hose that goes to the top of the diverterr valve and the hoses going into the intake hose (the big red one in my pic, the big black one.
If posible change them to silicone hoses, most places like pep boys carry them in weird wacky colors, dont just change the bad ones, if posible buy buy some yards of the hoses and change everything and SECURE them properly with metal ties ...

tomorrow Ill deal with check engine codes 0411 and such...good luck!
 

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Thanks to you Pulgamovil (and Tom Fowvay) I just found my problem! The pic with number 6 (6.-Boost/vacuum chck valve) showed me where to look. The rubber hose just to the left of #6 has a 2 inch gash on the underside. Wrapped it with tape to test...hard braking gone, idle back to butter smooth. I'll get a new hose tomorrow and put it in.

Btw, how do you remove those nasty little OEM clamps?

130,000 miles on my 1.8T hot rod!

Later, Rich
 

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A quick update after going to the stealership:
- #6 referenced as "Boost/vacuum chck valve", $36 w/tax.
- The short hose to the left of #6, $38 w/tax!

Thanks to the Org or I would've paid to have it diagnosed, as well.

I'll break out the dremel tool tonight and replace the hose and then return #6 (unless it too is bad).

Later, Rich
 

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What happened to the rest of this thread? i have a few hoses i need to replace but the dealer wants TOO much for those things, can i just get any other hose from like autozone with the same diameter and replace them? if so, do you guys know the hoses diameter?

the main hose i need is the Secondary air pump return (attaches to the intake box, also i need the small one that plugs to the side of the intake manifold and drops down into a valve like?

Thanks!
 

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What happened to the rest of this thread? i have a few hoses i need to replace but the dealer wants TOO much for those things, can i just get any other hose from like autozone with the same diameter and replace them? if so, do you guys know the hoses diameter?

the main hose i need is the Secondary air pump return (attaches to the intake box, also i need the small one that plugs to the side of the intake manifold and drops down into a valve like?

Thanks!
I've done the same thing you're about to do, and yes you can get regular coolant hose from your auto part store and clamp it on to the SAI. As memory serves me I got about 2.5 feet for good measure and cut it to size. I can't recall the diameter- i'm thinking around 3/4", but you should be able to measure and be fine.

Please note that since you'll be using regular auto tubing vs. the flex tubing that the bends won't be as fluid as the OEM, but you'll be able to flex to fit with no restriction of air flow to the SAI. I'm sure there's some flex tubing out there somewhere to replace what you have, but at the time of my fix all I had accessible to do the job was auto coolant tubing and i'm well pleased with the results.

Sorry again for me not having the proper lengths and diameters- that's an org DIY violation and I won't fail you good folks again. But like I said, simple measurements will get you where you need to go. All the best:)
 

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Catch me riding s00ty!
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Catch me riding s00ty!
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It have noticed a rash of questions on vacuum lines or at least questions about other issues that bring the question of vacuum lines up.

So I have decided to make an official post on this in here.

The stock 4mm vacuum lines on all of our engines are natural rubber wrapped in cotten. While this was seriously high-tech back in the 60's it is outdated garbage now. It does not with stand heat well and dryrots. Thusly cracking and causing many vacuum leaks which result in poor ideling, loss of power, drop in mpg etc.

There is however a simple and inexspensive solution. Replace it with a quality silicone tubing. Silicone withstands heat, does not dryrot and will stand up to much more abuse. The kicker is that the thin wall junk sold at autozone etc isnt worth putting in our cars because it collapses. You need to make sure to get the "Good" stuff.

So here are the locations that I have found that carry the best silicone tubing.

Welcome to hosetechnique.com - Search Results for "hosetechnique.com"

This is what I have on Pomelo but its a pain to order from them direct.

http://www.samcosport.com/us/vaccum.asp

just order about 6 feet of 4mm and that will cover all of your lines :)

OEM / Performance Parts for Volkswagen, Audi, and BMW - ECS Tuning

They carry the hosetechnique under thier own name ;)


Now I'm sure you are wondering which lines to replace. Well on the 1.8T I can make that very easy for you simply by showing you a picture of my engine with the el cheapo autozone kit on it. The hoses are blue so they stand out. However they couldnt handle the heat and collapsed after the car warmed up. I have had no such issues with the hosetechnique.

Oh ya and don't forget the one going from the N75 valve to the turbo actuater on the back of the engine like I did. I just found that today and it was in appalling shape.... DOH!! :lol:
I'm doing some ordering now. Question. About how many clamps is that? I was going to order some, but i don't want to get too few...
 

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Just ordered 6 feet of bluse silicon hose in 3.5mm. I'll get the clamps when they get here.

Hopefully i get my boost back soon!
 
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