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Im Just Me
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok i was looking at the air pump's from ecs tuning.Their are 3 of them for our 1.8T one is 209,other 2 are like 339.00+ All state all fit the 1.8T Any thought's on witch one to buy?? I would like to get the one for 209.00 but not sure i should.Any help would be great please .Yes my pump is on the way out check eng light is on and the pump sound's like a jet making a landing when car is cold.:D
 

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Premium Member
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Damn, Buddy, keep on, you'll have a new car! (lol) Not a clue.

But then, that might not be so bad...
 

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If yours is an APH engine there is one which says 'just for aph' but they are a LOT cheaper on eBay...

I ordered one delivered for under $150, new part not re-con or used...

Kate
 

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Im Just Me
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thank you kate yes your right.After going back and reading more yes lol aph and non aph again ty:D
 

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Hey Matt, before you order, does your SAIP, have rivets? If so, you can fix the pump yourself. You're basically drilling (gingerly) out the rivets, and replacing them with machine bolts and nuts. That's all it takes. My nB had that jet sound too, and I did the aforementioned repair- problem solved.

Here's a brief writeup on the fix that I found on the Tex....

Diagnosis: Loud whine on cold start or when ever the secondary air injection pump turns on. You should be able to get under the car and look at the pump and you can physically see the aluminum rivets holding the fan housing coming apart. Sometimes it is not that obvious so look closely.

Solution: Replace the pump which is hundreds for a new one or buy a used one that will likely have the same problem eventually . . . or rebuild the one you have and make it better.

Required:
8mm allen socket with a short and long extension
10mm box wrench (ratcheting even better)
Drill and set of drill bits
Scratch awl
Flash light
6x 8-32 1 1/2" long non-corrosive pan head machine screws with self locking nuts (I found some SS ones at a local hardware store)


Removing the pump


(1) Jack up the car and remove the belly plate. From above reach down and remove the two hoses coming from the inlet and outlet of the air pump. They will be a pain in the a$$ if you have never removed them before. They clip on two sides and you must pinch between the clips to force them out. Hard to explain but fairly obvious if you look at any of the other hose fittings through out the engine bay. I added a little grease when I reassembled to help if I ever had to remove them again.

(2) from under neath the car disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the pump (facing the driver's side of the car on the transverse 1.8t)

(3) using the box wrench loosen the three 10mm nuts holding the rubber bushings to the steel mounting ring. There are two that are easy to get at but the third is on top. I was able to get at it with the wrench just feel around till you find it. The mounts are just rubber bonded so be careful not to tear them.

(4) From above use the flashlight to find the first of three socket head bolts holding the steel mounting ring to the front of the block. Easiest way to find it is to look directly past the oil dipstick tube. Get in there with the 8mm allen socket and the long extension and remove the bolt.

(5) From underneath you look between the pump and the oil pan to find the remaining two bolts with 8mm allen and the short extension. With the pump loose in the ring it is easier to get at those two bolts. Once removed the pump and support ring will easily come out.

Rebuilding the pump

As long as the pump has not failed it can easily be rebuilt in a few minutes. The "whiny" pump is caused by the failure of the 6 aluminum rivets holding the fan housing together.

(1) To clean the pump plug the inlet and outlet of the pump with a silicone plug (or something similar) and spray the housing of the pump down with a little simple green. Scrub on it a bit and gently rinse. Be careful and try not to get water into the pump through the inlet or outlet or where the housing is coming apart.

(2) Remove the 6 aluminum rivets by inserting the scratch awl into one end the rivet and using a drill bit to remove the head on the other side. Switch sides to remove both heads of the rivet. You can also remove one side and try and push it out.

(3) Insert the 8-32 pan head machine screw through the holes and secure with the lock nuts. If you want to make sure it never loosens up add a little bit of high temp thread lock.

Admire your work and then reinstall reverse of removal. If you want to test it hook up some repair wires to a 12v source. Power wire is usually striped, ground is usually solid brown.



One note on this repair. I removed my SAIP from the top of the car, and not underneath.
 

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We tried that on mine, we opened it up and found it seized, a can of liquid wrench freed it up but it was only a temp repair as the fault's come back pretty quickly :(

Kate
 
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