VW Beetle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Grand daughters 2002 Turbo S, 264258 miles on the odometer just arrived in my garage, is now my new project, has much to be done.
RH heated mirror glass gone, rear hatch can hear it run sometimes but does not release, (switch and latch assy?)
need to un lower and rebuild suspension, paint clear coat has gone somewhere. B pillar seat belt height adjuster stuck and short people need it LOW.
To the Plus I had the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, Tstat and serpentine belt and both front axels with cv joints replaced at a German auto repair shop in Salem, about 18000 miles ago.
These wet vw's are new to me, some familiarity with air cooled as I spent a lot of time with Gene Berg in Renton WA during the mid 60's. Will probably get a scanner, no codes now but it is old (like me) and has lots of miles. any input as to good parts suppliers and shop in the Albany/Salem Oregon area would be appreciated. Gary W7TZS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,579 Posts
Welcome, you chose, probably the best performance new beetle for the USA market, basically a Mark IV Golf GTI 20th anniversary spec New Beetle; i have the same exact vehicle! :)Consider investing in the top tier vw factory level scan tool; vcds by ross tech and fcpeuro is excellent for high quality parts, they offer a lifetime warranty, on everything they sell.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome, you chose, probably the best performance new beetle for the USA market, basically a Mark IV Golf GTI 20th anniversary spec New Beetle; i have the same exact vehicle! :)Consider investing in the top tier vw factory level scan tool; vcds by ross tech and fcpeuro is excellent for high quality parts, they offer a lifetime warranty, on everything they sell.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info, just got in from the bone yard, scored the mirror and trunk latch assy. This is going to be interesting, noted as the car sits in the garage that the grill was laying loose in the front bumper, someone zip tied the license plate to it blocking some air flow. Will be moving the plate up to the bumper and re installing the grill, less the fog lights which are missing.
bottom of bumper has crack from hitting speed bumps, repair or replace? Think this will be a never ending project but what else is there to do except.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome...and goodluck with your Turbo S New Beetle!:)
Thank you, Turbo is going to be a long slow process, now chasing lack of power to trunk latch motor, next will be...
beats sawing up ice storm trees and stacking brush in this hot weather
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Is it definitely a VW New Beetle Turbo S (with six-speed manual transmission)...as the one in this video is?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, 1.8L 20 valve, 6 speed manual (grand daughter loved that) same interior, paint color is black, rear badge faded to white/gray, only access to trunk via electric (I am adding a manual panic/dead latch system over ride), Monsoon with 6 disk, don't know if the cd works but will find out, radio sensitivity is way low but that may be the wrong antenna, part of the vw resurrection. Will have way more into it than what it's worth but isn't that the way of all projects.
At the same time reviving 3 different ham 1950/70's ham radio and one ww2 transmitter & receiver system.
Front plate is zip tied to the grill (which fell out), going to re mount plate above grill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, 1.8L 20 valve, 6 speed manual (grand daughter loved that) same interior, paint color is black, rear badge faded to white/gray, only access to trunk via electric (I am adding a manual panic/dead latch system over ride), Monsoon with 6 disk, don't know if the cd works but will find out, radio sensitivity is way low but that may be the wrong antenna, part of the vw resurrection. Will have way more into it than what it's worth but isn't that the way of all projects.
At the same time reviving 3 different ham 1950/70's ham radio and one ww2 transmitter & receiver system.
Front plate is zip tied to the grill (which fell out), going to re mount plate above grill.
oh yes, I havent pulled the plastic cover off the motor but I seem to remember from time back that it is an AWP motor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
All the VW New Beetle models with a factory fitted 1.8T engine had the electric rear spoiler...even if not a Turbo S model.

If you reach under the drivers side dash...you should find a button/switch to manually deploy or lower the electric rear spoiler.

I find this feature handy when washing the car...just always make sure no-ones fingers are near it when it gets lowered.

It was only the New Beetle Turbo S that had a six-speed transmission fitted to it's 1.8T engine though.

You (and other members on here such as 'dnyed' and 'billymade' for some examples) are very lucky to own a New Beetle Turbo S
in my opinion...as I live in a country (Australia) that never had them available.
We only got the regular 1.8T New Beetle version here unfortunately (from 2001-2005 only) in either 4-speed automatic or
five-speed manual.

The engine code for my car (AWU) is on a metal tag or a paper decal or something in the trunk area near the spare
wheel from memory...I didn't know it's also on the engine?

Anyway...all the best - and here are some old television commercials for the New Beetle Turbo S that I hope you find fun
or interesting! :)


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
good video's
still chasing "trunk" latch fail. motor is good, proved by substitution and applying external 12v to it. Lights flash when keyfob is used, no power to latch. Does the power go through the door switch as in a two position switch (SPDT) when the fob is used? Just putting off taking the door apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,579 Posts
Check the wiring harness flex area; from the body to the hatch, wires tend to break eventually (killing power to the hatch). This can be repaired; using heat shrink, adhesive lined butt connectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Check the wiring harness flex area; from the body to the hatch, wires tend to break eventually (killing power to the hatch). This can be repaired; using heat shrink, adhesive lined butt connectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thanks, will do that. in the meantime am putting in a mechanical emergency opening pull wire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I have a problem with my hatch also...you hear it click when you hit the button on the drivers door - but it's only half open when you go to the
back to open it.

Although...If you push the button on the door then dart fast to the rear you can open it - but if you're slow it's only half open when you get
there.

If I hold the key in one hand and have the other ready at the bottom of the hatch - then grab it as soon as it pops it opens...but if you take to
long it's not open properly and only half released.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
Ok If your hatch unlocks with the door switch or key fob but then re-locks before you can get to it, you need to adjust the preload bolts Two 8mm bolts in the lid support hinge mechanism. I moved my daughters preload bolts as though I was unscrewing them and here hatch works fine now. Here is a thread that discusses this issue.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Ok If your hatch unlocks with the door switch or key fob but then re-locks before you can get to it, you need to adjust the preload bolts Two 8mm bolts in the lid support hinge mechanism. I moved my daughters preload bolts as though I was unscrewing them and here hatch works fine now. Here is a thread that discusses this issue.

OMG...so awesome - and I really hope that this is the simple issue I only have.
I love it when a problem can be solved by just an easy adjustment...and not with me having to open my wallet! :)

My car is in the carport with a blown head gasket and flat battery at the moment...but I look forward to trying this out when I start working at getting it back on the road
sometime in the coming months.

Thanks so much!(y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok If your hatch unlocks with the door switch or key fob but then re-locks before you can get to it, you need to adjust the preload bolts Two 8mm bolts in the lid support hinge mechanism. I moved my daughters preload bolts as though I was unscrewing them and here hatch works fine now. Here is a thread that discusses this issue.

does not unlock, hence the mechanical pull wire I installed
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top