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Certified Arcade Tech
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello campers.

Ok, Took a 3 hour drive and a 4 hour drive to find and purchase one. But we did it.

Here's the known issues so far:

Headlight bulb blown-low beam. Picked up the headlight and a Haynes manual so we know how to change it.

Drivers side door latch busted. To get into the car? One has to insert the key into the lock--turn key and wait, and then the drivers window goes down? (I was surprised--is that normal?) And then reach into the car to open the door.

I was told the Radio does not work. Also of interest? They only had one factory key--and the battery is missing from the key. Does anyone know what that number is? We tried a cr2025 (it's about the same diameter as the cr2032) and it wouldn't fit.

Now I've been reading about "Radio Codes" and the relationship to the keys? Or some such thing. (Okay, I'm tired from the trip and need some clarity)

And the fog light on the passenger side in the bumper is 1/2 full of brown water (eww).

Any helpful ideas are welcome.

The car also has an exhaust leak that we will check into tomorrow.

Thanks all!

S-
 

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You certainly have your work cut out for you.


The key opening the window is a great feature. It also will close the windows. Key turned towards front to open, key turned towards back, will close windows and sunroof. This is a nice thing when you leave the sunroof open, and you don't need to get in and start.

The rest, I will tell you, I'm no mechanic. But, you came to the right little corner of the world for help.


Good luck, and thanks for joining us!
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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Discussion Starter #3
You certainly have your work cut out for you.


The key opening the window is a great feature. It also will close the windows. Key turned towards front to open, key turned towards back, will close windows and sunroof. This is a nice thing when you leave the sunroof open, and you don't need to get in and start.

The rest, I will tell you, I'm no mechanic. But, you came to the right little corner of the world for help.


Good luck, and thanks for joining us!
I've often found forums a fantastic source of information. (I'm a very active member of Bronco forums--that's my daily driver. The beetle is the wife's ride--or it will be)

I'm very confused with the car 'key' we got. It's a VW key (factory) and the logo has the push button. The guy we bought it from wacked a large chuck off the asking price due to the distance we traveled....but clearly he attempted to change the battery in the only key--and lost the battery.

There's a local place in Syracuse that can cut the keys. I have to call them on Monday. The inside of the current key has something that looks like an IR beam emitter (Okay, so I'm an electronic tech for a video arcade company). I did not see any circuit boards within the key. Just a spring actuator and the little "Light Bulb" thing.

I think the car only came with key less entry. Sense the battery is missing in the key itself--and the car starts up and runs and moves around....It also disables the anti=theft bit with just turning the key in the lock.

Or am I mistaken?

Looking for some responses :) As this is my first venture in the land of the Beetle.

Thanks!!

S-
 

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Yay Yellow
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sidewinderkey.com

When I first got my bug someone here sent me there - great info on the different keys. In my case I learned I was able to replace the bad remote half of my keyfob easily and cheaply without hurting the key-ignition half. Sorry to say I'm pretty useless on the rest of it!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No worries :)

After checking it seems all the last owner had? Was the "Valet" key. Both the "Master Keys" are gone for good. As well the key code id tag.

Looks like I'll have to work with the dealership after a fashion, or a local firm in Syracuse that advertises they can make the replacement key(s) and program them at a much lower rate then the dealership.

S-
 

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Any reputable key shop can do it cheaper than the dealer.

While you're at it, find a reputable independent VW shop in your area. Stay away from dealer service.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Updates

Okay. Spent the afternoon ripping and tearing (no...not really, but it sounded good <G>)

We have the Beetle up to our 'barn' where I can work on things. Needless to say? The car has the following problems:

Rear Brakes are toasted. Front Brakes are NEW?? But the last owner never sprung for the rear brakes. (I have new rotors and pads, will install this week.)

Both front tires? Like Slicks. Worn to the wear bars... New tires tomorrow.

Now here's the stuff I need help on.

Drivers side outside door handle is still broken. We're planning on a trip to pick and pull salvage and hopefully get a new one. Any help or advice on how this comes out?

Engine starts a bit odd. If I had to guess? The starter needs to be removed and given some oil on the bushings to the bendix. It starts fine--but has a couple of seconds of a high pitched "Whine" after it starts. Kinda like if you held the key to 'start' for a few moments to long. It might be just from sitting to long---

Exhaust: Flex Pipe is shot. The steel mesh is good, but the inner pipe is busted. Due to this idiot state adopting "CARB" rules? (FYI, only NYS and CA has this nonsense) The replacement part will now cost about $400.00 (cost plus tax and shipping average) if the local muffler shop can't remove and replace the flex pipe. Plus the added bonus? The "CARB" listed ones? Appear to only have the 6 bolt flange to the exhaust manifold. (the 2 pipe design) This car? Has a single down pipe with a 4 bolt flange. (The leak is NOT severe enough to cause the next issue--which happens while the engine is still in "open loop" operation (aka--it's not warmed up enough to read the O2 sensor)

Engine:

Has recent maintenance of the timing belt changed last month (according to the last owner) Has "Auto Lite" spark plug wires. I think it had to have had a tune up done not to long ago, but impossible to tell at this point. Air cleaner is also extremely clean. So I'm sure the car did get basic work at some point.

At any rate: Engine when cold (it's not on the road yet...so a road test is out) When cold--the engine is very sluggish. There are no CEL's. The car was on the road as of last month. (The new front brakes...very very limited surface rust from siting...)

I drove the car up a slight hill and up on the ramps to see the exhaust. It didn't like the hill, and the ramps? The poor ol' thing coughed, bogged down and sputtered badly. Not enough to trip the CEL--but it just ran extremely rough under load.

We'll run some injector cleaner through the system--and I hope that helps clear it. Any other ideas Please share :)

I'm considering replacing the spark plugs (suggestions?) and wires (NGK?). I didn't hear any "Snapping" from ignition shorting out. (Our Tiburon did that several times, the coil pack failed and it set a code for miss fire and you could hear the electrical arc.) This one has NO CEL's...so I'm at a bit of a loss to the cause of the stumbling and coughing.

We're a few weeks out from putting it on the road, but I'd like to get the 'bugs' out before I take it on longer driving.

Thanks!!

S-




Please let me know any ideas.
 

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new car

Well congrats on the new car and welcome to the club. I believe the high pitched "Whine" you were referring to is the secondary air pump, it comes on and off at random especially in cold starts for the first time. If you plan on buying the OEM original from VW make sure you're sitting down when you ask about the price. LOL :p. You can always get one off ebay and works the same, I did.$100 Good luck man. These little cars are notorious for requiring lots of maintenance, but sounds like you are taking this in stride.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
LOL.

I'm glad I was sitting down when the local stealership quoted me for just one key.

Yes that makes sense for the air pump. It does not help the upper rubber mount is busted and the pump is kinda off at a very slight angle.

I'm not entirely sure what the dealerships problem was? But my god--what a bunch of snotty people they have working the parts counter.

It's a sure bet they are not used to dealing with someone that can repair a lot of issues without spending a fortune at their shop for labor. The shop also services BMW and Audi cars. So it's a safe bet they are used to having the car dropped off with the words "Fix" and the total line left like a blank check.

Ah well. I'll do some independent postings about other questions. And yes, we found the fuel filter. It looks like the one from my Bronco II.

Thanks!

S-
 

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ebay

LOL.

I'm glad I was sitting down when the local stealership quoted me for just one key.

Yes that makes sense for the air pump. It does not help the upper rubber mount is busted and the pump is kinda off at a very slight angle.

I'm not entirely sure what the dealerships problem was? But my god--what a bunch of snotty people they have working the parts counter.

It's a sure bet they are not used to dealing with someone that can repair a lot of issues without spending a fortune at their shop for labor. The shop also services BMW and Audi cars. So it's a safe bet they are used to having the car dropped off with the words "Fix" and the total line left like a blank check.

Ah well. I'll do some independent postings about other questions. And yes, we found the fuel filter. It looks like the one from my Bronco II.

Thanks!

S-
You can get those rubber bumper screws on ebay too. If you want to know about expensive keys, I once paid $250 for one key to my Toyota Tacoma I think it's the programming that makes It costly and The dealer was the only one that could do that job so I had to pay it..UURRGG LOL :D
 

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The whine, was there any "grind" to the sound?

My starter died on me and before it went it would occasionally make a whine/grind sound for a second or two after starting the car. It was loud and distinctive, like a homeless barista snuck under the hood and started grinding coffee.
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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Discussion Starter #14
nope. Not really any grinding sounds. More like a loud higher pitched "WEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllll" sound. We could not get it to repeat after we drove it into the "Barn" where I work on stuff. (and yes, I do have several shade trees..as in shade tree mechanic)

I was under the car and the wife started it several times. Each time quiet after the first couple of whirrs...

**shrug** One of those times we'll have to wait until it presents itself.

S-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Honest question. Why would you drive seven hours to buy a car with all these issues?
We've been looking for one of these cars for about a month. There where several used car dealerships in the area that did list them, but at a premium high price.

The local salvage yard had 2 of them for $2200 each. Both had power steering rack leaks/Line leaks and they refused to sell local--wholesale to the dealerships only. I talked to them and inspected the cars--One Diesel with 300000 miles on it, and one 2.0 gas. Both had severe interior problems (head liners both down---leaks---) They just reduced them both to $1500 each. We passed on both of them due to the restrictions, and I would have to have my cousin broker the sale (at another surcharge)

So we kept looking. None in the area, except a 2000 that I posted here regarding a laundry list of CEL codes. It was an auto--so we where told unless really cheap? Stay away, to many wildcards.

After another week of looking? We found the blue one in Albany. The last owner was fairly upfront. I've verified a lot of maintenance was done before it was pulled off the road. (timing belt, 2 fairly new tires in the back, brakes in the front very very recent...) And he dropped the price quite a bit to help move the car--and to help us with the expense of renting a car transport and fuel tolls.

Basically it was the only one we could find in a 300 mile radius that wasn't severely overpriced, and had a solid footing to finish the repairs.

There is a couple of them local, but according to KBB and Edmunds? Even using the "Excellent" condition? These people tacked on an extra $2000 and $2500 to the cars blue book value.

We have a set budget for the car itself. I'm a former automotive tech. So I can supply the blood, sweat, and tears to get this car back to 100%. I use forums for ideas and hints when it's not something I normally work with.

Yes the car has had several issues that I wish we knew about prior. But it's all very repairable so far. Kinda pricey..But it's fixable.

As for our other transport? I drive an 89' Bronco II that I rebuilt the top half of the engine, and have replaced and serviced the transmission. Repaired several issues with the E
EC-4 system. And the car we retired? Rebuilt the rear suspension, chased down several CEL codes.. had it running like a scalded dog--and then some idiot backed his ford into the front end causing $1800+ in damages. The car still had rust issues pending--So we decided to part company with it and sold it for a huge loss. We used the insurance money and the sale money to fund this Beetle.

So in short? Nope, I'm not stupid--maybe a bit crazy. But I see a diamond in the rough here. Just need to do a lot of polishing!

Thanks for asking the question. Hopefully everyone can kinda understand my thought process now.

S-
 

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Assuming the car is a manual? If so it sounds like it might be clutch residue in the starter. A common MKIV problem. The good news is it's usually fixable without having to buy a new starter. This MKIV Thread is very useful.
 

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Yes the car has had several issues that I wish we knew about prior. But it's all very repairable so far. Kinda pricey..But it's fixable. But I see a diamond in the rough here. Just need to do a lot of polishing!

S-
So glad you're giving this lump of coal a chance to shine like a diamond. Good to see any beetle rescued. Sounds like it was a process that was already started which makes it even easier to finish.

You never said what engine you have? My Iggy is an '01 also, 1.8t engine. Also curious if it is a manual or an automatic?

My app keeps crashing and it took me several restarts and find my place again openings to read your thread, so forgive me if I miss anything or repeat info and sorry it's so long-winded...lol. Here goes:

Key-My Iggy came with only a valet key too. I was able to get a new alarm fob/flip key cut and programmed at a local locksmith for a little over $200 (which was still 1/2 the cost of the dealer). You just have to find one that can do the sidewinder cut and VW programming. I did not have the code tag or anything either. They did it all by computer. Of note, I've read that with beetles it's common for the air bag cel to be turned on when certain readers/computers interact with them. Sure enough, after they programmed my key, the air bag cel was lit. My mechanic friend read/reset it and no actual problem with the air bags. Just the locksmith's programmer activated the cel.

Rear brakes-If they did the brakes themselves, that's probably why they did just the front. I learned when I took mine apart to paint the calipers that the rear calipers have two pistons for the pads that have to be turned out in opposite directions at the same time to spread them out for the new pad placement. I imagine without the specialty tool for that its a PITA.

Fog light-You're lucky it's an '01. I think that's the first year you can get to those without removing the entire front "bumper" piece. (Old way was an impossibly poor design on VW's part). I snapped out my grille and surround pretty easily (for painting) without removing anything else. Fog lights were easy to get to.

Whine on start-Could be the secondary air pump. Mine whines; but works (not that it's necessary for car to run. I drove with mine pulled out completely for 3 days while I made some repairs on some missing rivets...lol). Plus the whine goes away pretty quickly since it only runs on startup anyway. Incidentally, I replaced all three of my rubber bumpers on that while I had it out just because its such a PITA to get at and they looked like they were getting quite dry rotted. Got them on EBay.

Runs rough, no CELs-Do you have a reader for it? My Iggy seems to be an oddball on the whole "always shows a CEL" thing. I've rarely had one on; but I have a reader and have had multiple codes pop up. My check engine light did not come on until I was on my way home from work the 3rd day I was driving around without my secondary air pump in at all. I was beginning to think the bulb was blown or something...lol. (Of course all the codes for that were about a secondary air leak...ya think? Lol). Other than that I've had codes for secondary air leak (due to those rivets I had to replace), turbo overboost, throttle body issues, etc without ever showing a CEL. All were permanent faults until I fixed the problems and reset them too.



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Discussion Starter #19
Still trying to find a decent code reader that does not cost 5 arms and 3 legs. LOL

This one has the 2.0 'k'(5th vin) engine. It's a manual transmission.

I think it's not the sport model, as the piston for the rear brake is a 1 piston type. thankfully I still have the tool in the box from my mechanics days.

I'll have to post more updates as we go along. Gotta run to Monro for a couple of tires. Tried to find a good matched pair used. (I've had excellent luck with used tires..just gotta know what to look for) But that tire size isn't quite a standard for this area.

S-
 

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Good thing you still have that tool if you had needed it. I borrow my mechanic's; but would like to just get my own so I don't have to bother him. His shop upgraded to dealer specs a few years back so they gave me their old system so I wouldn't come to them every time I needed a read...lol. It's a Programascan system that runs around $3-5000. I totally lucked out. I was just gonna get one of the cheap readers off eBay and mentioned that to them. They said, "oh, we have one of them we never use anymore you can have." I had no clue it wasn't the cheaply one I was looking for. Only problem it has is the laptop needs a new battery; but works fine plugged in. I have all the software and numbers so I could just put it on another computer if I wanted. Ask here, I think you can find a cheap one for like $25-30 that'll just do simple read and reset. Can't wait to see how it all goes, and of course...pictures!!! Lol


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