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Just got the Beetle TDI a fiew weeks ago. It came with only one key fob. This is the older style with 2-1620 batteries and without transponder chip (no immobilizer).
I bought a spare complete fob with uncut key blade.

Here is my question:
The new remote needs to be "Matched" which seems quite simple. Problem is,I have 3 different versions of the procedure.

#1) Turn on ignition with "working" key. Use "New" key to lock door, hold for 10 sec, release and push any button. Wait 2 sec and puch same button again. Done.

#2) Turn on ignition with "New" key .... use "working" key to lock door, etc. etc.

#3) Turn on ignition with "one" key .... use "other" key to lock door, etc. etc.

I also red that any privious code on the new key will be erased. Don't know if this referres to the transponder chip or the remote.
So, which version is correct or does it matter.
 

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Put working key in ignition, turn to on -- do not start
take new key and lock driver door with it
Press unlock, wait a second or to, press unlock again - key #1 is coded.

You have to press the button the number of times that this key coordinates to the remote space -- so if you have NO remotes the first will be one press, remote two two presses, three will be three and four will be four -- you press it 4 times wait 2 seconds then press it 4 times again (if doing remote #4, replace #4 with the number for the remote).

Make sense?
 

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My 99 GLS came with only one key and the remote didn't work. I put new batteries in and still no workie. Any suggestions? I didn't get an owners manual either. :-(
 

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Related to this, our key fobs work terrible, new battery or not, the fobs are so useless now after 14 years that I don't even have mine on the keychain now.

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the new style of flip out key built into the remote fob would work for my old '98 bug?

Would you suggest going to the dealership to get these cut, or would a key cutting shop have the ability to do that if I got the key/fob online?
 

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My 99 GLS came with only one key and the remote didn't work. I put new batteries in and still no workie. Any suggestions? I didn't get an owners manual either. :-(
The remote (fob) transmitter could be bad, when you chaned the batteries did you look closely at the circuit board for the transmitter? Clean and sharp in appearance? Possible corrosion of contacts in the microswitches that operate it? Etc, etc. This might sound like a stupid question, but are you using the right batteries? By the book, not by what was in it. Are they installed with the correct side up?

The alarm, lock, unlock functions are controled by the comfort control module (CCM). The CCM can be checked, but requires a VAG-COM. Could be the wire antenna for the comfort control module (alarm system remote).

The CCM aside, which you can not check yourself, I might also suggest you check the following fuses, S111, S114, S5, S6, S237, S238 (see below for locations). While the charts don't specifically identify them as remote related, they are involved in the system to more of an extent than is indicated, and all need to be checked.

M.
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Related to this, our key fobs work terrible, new battery or not, the fobs are so useless now after 14 years that I don't even have mine on the keychain now.

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the new style of flip out key built into the remote fob would work for my old '98 bug?

Would you suggest going to the dealership to get these cut, or would a key cutting shop have the ability to do that if I got the key/fob online?
No, the new style flip key fob will not work with the old style key. That fob came into use with the advent of the immobilzer system where the need to add a chip into the fob is required. You're problem is probably degradation of the electronics in the remote, e.g. moisture, dropping vibration, etc. While you still have the remote working (it's needed to program a new one I believe) you would do best to get a new remote and key. See my Post #2 above for a resource and more information on understanding your remote and how to progam it.

M.
 

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OMG MORAV... I can't believe you said that.

The 98 uses the same alarm system as the 99-2000 model. So yes, a flip key from a 99-00 model WILL work on a 98. I've made one, two others have made them. But the dealer will not help you.

If you want to know what you have to collect to make this happen, PM me and I'll be glad to help you.

Key shops cannot cut german steel, you need nickel metal/nickel copper key blanks to have most shops copy them. Keep that in mind.
 

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Damn, $99 for one remote. I think since I have to walk up to the car in order to get inside and drive that I'll just live with inserting the key to turn the lock and get inside.
 

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OMG MORAV... I can't believe you said that.

The 98 uses the same alarm system as the 99-2000 model. So yes, a flip key from a 99-00 model WILL work on a 98. I've made one, two others have made them. But the dealer will not help you.

If you want to know what you have to collect to make this happen, PM me and I'll be glad to help you.

Key shops cannot cut german steel, you need nickel metal/nickel copper key blanks to have most shops copy them. Keep that in mind.
Shut my mouth, I thought the flip key remote started with the advent of the immobilizer system. Didn't know there was a flip key fob without the chip. Need to go to the same site I link ppl to and do some reading I guess. I stand corrected, thank you! :bowdown: I believe you, because your the key wizard around here! :D Learned something today, here, since Blugg has been of absolutely no help this fine day. He doesn't even know what a mosque looks like (another thread)!
 

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Foxie is right. The '98 was the only year that came with the "banjo" style remote. The flip keys started in '99...I had one :) (still do actually...my keys stayed with me when Copart took the car! :p)
 

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A 2000's remote and switchblade will still work on a non-immo car; the chip is literally a grain of rice like glass tube that rattles around next to the rotator mechanism that moves the key blade. It can be removed but it won't do any harm if your car is non immo and the key was immo coded... the blade is all that matters on 98-99 models. 00+ you have to worry with programming that RFID chip in the key head.
 

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Oh I know he's right, never misses when it comes to these stupid keys and remotes. I'm thinking he might have been either a locksmith or an auto thief in a previous life! :D
 

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Neither. I'm absent minded, and have lost these before. I also know there was nothing different between 98 and 99 other than the new key, and knew immo wasn't a concern till 2000. There was no real reason, other than Volkswagen Dealers said, that I couldn't have a siwtchblade for my 98. So I made it happen.

I just like to make things happen. It's why I'm so good at my job :)
 

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Thanks Morav. The info you provided is a big help in more ways than one. Circuit board looks good with no signs of corrosion or other damage. Batteries were and are in correctly. I replaced them with what was in originally since I don't have a book to tell me otherwise. All fuses are good but some seemed loose so I want to look into that when I have time. Remote functions still do not work so I'll try to get it checked with the tool you mentioned when I can. Thanks again for your help; I have other issues with the car so I'll most likely BUG you again. : > )
 
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