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Discussion Starter #23
It won’t stay running now. Looking at a possible Immobilizer cause and reading about lots of money being spent at the dealership to get it right.

Someone has my key, so could they have done something to cause this?
 

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Typically, when the keys are programmed; all the keys you are going to be used, need to be added one by one. The keys left out; such, as your lost one; maybe erased from the system and no longer matched to the car ( thus not work).

If the immobilizer light is blinking and you have a start, then stall, die issue, it is probably the immobilizer (this will be confirmed by a trouble code).

17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer


More info here:


Every part of the immo system; needs to work correctly, for the system to work, even a low battery or charging problem, can cause the immo to kick on. If you have low voltage issues; have the battery and charging system test. Sometimes, the immo system gets "confused" and a hard reset of the ecu, can help (remove pos/negative cables; touch together and reinstall).

If the immo light isn't blinking; it maybe other problems, check for trouble codes, go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Ross-Tech says:
1. Gather all remotes to be matched
2. Insert one in ignition and turn it on
3. [select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] whichever is applicable to the car, as found: Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Vehicle Application Charts
[Adaptation - 10]
4. Enter channel “01”
[Read]
This will display the number of currently stored remotes in “Stored Value”
Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in “New Value”
[Test]
Verify that the number in “Test Value” is correct.
[Save]
Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you’re programming more than one fob, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.
 

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Is the immobilizer blinking; when you try to start the engine (starts for a moment; then dies)? Have you had the alarm issue before; if the alarm, is going off, when it shouldn't, the door lock mechanism might have bad microswitches (these sense; when the door is open or closed). Lock or Unlock with the key fob; should turn, the alarm off (press lock, unlock, etc).
 

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Ross-Tech says:
1. Gather all remotes to be matched
2. Insert one in ignition and turn it on
3. [select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] whichever is applicable to the car, as found: Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Vehicle Application Charts
[Adaptation - 10]
4. Enter channel “01”
[Read]
This will display the number of currently stored remotes in “Stored Value”
Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in “New Value”
[Test]
Verify that the number in “Test Value” is correct.
[Save]
Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you’re programming more than one fob, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.
That procedure is to match the remotes, not the immobilizer. I think the locksmith got your keys cut and the remotes matched, but probably didn't match the immobilizer. Those are two different procedures.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I was able to get the alarm to stop after following a video on YouTub where the key is inserted in the trunk to unlock it and shut the alarm off.
I can’t get the Ross-Tech to connect but one of the keys works now. I drove Marilyn down the street and she sounds like a blender knocking ice cubes around.
I tried to put 4 quarts of transmission fluid in but some of it ended up on the driveway.
The check engine light is on but OBD Fusion says it’s off but it does say this vehicle is not ready for emissions testing.
 

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Do you have a aftermarket stereo; installed on the vehicle? This can cause, obd II connectivity problems; also, is the cable a genuine licensed Ross Tech VCDS cable/software or a Chinese knockoff cable with VCDS Lite? Have you ever, had VCDS; work, on this vehicle?

Here is info; about the aftermarket stereo issue:


As to the one of the keys not working; I would contact your locksmith again and have him finish the programming job (you paid him for the work; things should work and programming issues resolved).

As to the drivability issues (e.g. "blender knocking ice cubes around"); I don't know, what that would mean, a misfire or hesitation problems? Are you able to get any trouble codes; in obd fusion? If none come up; you might look at "pending codes" and see, if anything is in there, just hasn't popped up yet.

As to the transmission fill; which one do you have? Auto 4 speed or 6 speed; then, there is the 5 speed manual gearbox. The auto transmissions: require a unique sequence of filling, at a specified fluid temps; inside the tranmission, otherwise, if it gets to hot or you do not use the correct filling technique, it will vomit, out allot of fluid on the ground (ask me, how I know!). So, getting the fluid levels correct; can be a challenge, if you do not follow the recommended procedures (kind of a pain but it can be done).

The emissions testing or "readiness" tests; showing a "not ready", may indicate a emissions system issue or you just haven't fulfilled the conditions, that test sequence requires. In VCDS, a readiness test; that doesn't pass, will normal indicate a "fail" warning. At that point, you would need; to do some testing and troubleshooting, look for trouble codes, that may indicate, why the test failed or what part of the emissions, is having a problem, the classic being a cat inefficiency code or P0420.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I do have an aftermarket stereo.

The cable is not a genuine licensed Ross Tech VCDS cable/software but a Chinese knockoff cable with VCDS Lite. I don’t remember if I have have ever had VCDS; work on this vehicle because I used to be 2005beetle but I crashed on the 118 and I let the insurance company steal it from me for only $900 when they’re supposed to give replacement cost.

The "blender knocking ice cubes around probably has something to do with the transmission because I just changed the fluid and filter.
I don’t get any trouble codes in obd fusion even though the check engine light is on. I couldn’t find “pending codes" to see, if anything is in there and just hasn't popped up yet.

Marilyn has a 6 speed transmission. I didn’t want to strain my brain with the unique sequence.

I drove down the street and turned around.
 

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You could try, disconnecting your aftermarket stereo; see, if it works then, although if the wireless dongle/obd fusion work, I would think the cable should work but with the Chinese knockoffs, there are no guarantees, it or the software will work.

For the tranmission fluid level check; the trans temp, could be checked with a infrared temp gun, if you cannot get VCDS to work.

For OBD Fusion: watch this video @1:00; he shows you the "pending codes", right below the regular trouble codes area.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
The check engine light is on, OBD Fusion says the number of stored codes is zero and no pending codes.
 

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Huh, that is odd; it would be nice, to be able to scan with VCDS. You might pull the stereo; disconnect it and see, if you are able to get it to do a full autoscan. Then, check for any results; post anything you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The VCDS might not be working because the OBD cable has a serial connection on the other end so I have another cable to convert it to USB to plug into my laptop.
 

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Yeah, getting the knockoff Chinese cables to work; can be a challenge in itself, adding a connection "adapter" can make it even harder or possibly less compatible or functional. The genuine Ross Tech cables/software; just work and I haven't had any issues using them. I have a older discontinued HEX-USB+CAN Intelligent Dual-K plus CAN cable; since 2007. I have had it on many different Windows based PC's; all have worked it is a solid diagnostic solution. While the typical $199 is a decent amount of money; it can pay for itself the first use, rather then taking it to a pro vw shop, as labor rates have in many cases, over $100 an hour.

The knock off Chinese cables i used, typically tended to work better on older windows versions or in compatibility mode; on the later Windows and beyond, operating systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The VCDS might not be working because the OBD cable has a serial connection on the other end so I have another cable to convert it to USB to plug into my laptop.

Here’s the blue OBD cable connected with a serial-to-USB cable.
250624
 

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Yeah, i dunno; anything is possible, look in the my computer area see id cable is recognized and the drivers are installed without errors, etc. Worst case scenario; just get a real genuine ross tech cable and be done with it. There are less expensive options; like OBDeleven or the many Cheap Chinese knock off "VAG" scanners but I have found; the Ross Tech VCDS solution, to be the best bang for the buck and most reliable, compatible VW/Audi scan tool to use.
 

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That blue cable doesn’t look like a vcds cable, is it a chinese pirated version? You won’t regret getting a vcds cable. Years ago I paid $249 for mine it’s the older unlimited vin cable. I could put it up for sale right now and get $150-200 out of it, total cost of having it 10 or so years about $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I had bought 2 more quarts of ATF G-055-025-31-DSP at the VW stealership for $66 then put those in and I have 2 more quarts of G-055-025-A2. Is it a big deal if I mix it?
250635
 

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Good question, did you ask; the parts people, at the VW dealership? VW tends to revise part #'s; from time to time and it maybe the part #, was superseded and the bottle color/label changed. They should be able to tell you; if they are compatible or just part #/label/container changes.

The G-055-025-A2 seems, to be listed; for the later six speed automatic.

This seems to be confirmed; by searching on VW's part site, this part #, is coming up as:


ATF OIL.

Part Number: G055025A2

"This product; is no longer available"



Specs online; for the part # G-055-025-31-DSP , seem to list the 09G/six speed, as being correct for this fluid. SO, both seem to be spec'd; for the 09G six speed, from what I can tell from info listed online.

Transmission oil
AUTOMATIC FLUID (1L) (No. 12)
Transmission oil VAG ATF 1L G055025A2
Trans oil VAG ATF 1L
Synthetic Gear Oil 1l - ATF
G055025A2_ gear oil (1L) EU! Automatic VAG ATF
TRANSMISSION OIL 1L

Automatic transmission oil VAG G055025A2 1L in automatic transmission 09G (Aisin)
VAG ATF G055025 Transmission Fluid, Automatic (Plastic / EU) (1L)
 
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