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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It seems like everytime I am on here, it is for MAF issues! Ugh, and looking at problems I am sure to have later. :)

So here's the deal. Have had long term MAF problems, been replaced 2 times in the last 4 years. About 4 months ago it started stalling randomly, more so on hot days, and at stops or idling. Oh and een more frequently when using the A/C (florida so all the time recently). Replaced the vacuum hoses b/c of a big leak - fixed some of the stalling but not all.

There is still a tiny leak somewhere, i can hear it but haven't found it yet. Car was running (not well, but running) until today. The thing made it all the way to gainesville and then didn't want to come back home. Cranked it, started, dead. repeat 3 times. Cranked it, started, hit the gas, made bad-sounding noises, rough idle until gas let go then idle for a second then dead. If I held the gas for about 30 seconds it would stay on but not "go"; it would not exceed 2000 RPM in any gear. I assume it put itself in limp mode.

I reset it with an OBDII 3 times (in between attempts to get it running). Then, I let it be for 5 minutes while I called a friend to ask advice about it but when I came back the CEL (which has been on for 4 years off and on with this MAF problem) was off. I couldn't believe my eyes. Ran great till the next time I stopped.

Repeat entire scenario. For kicks, I unplugged the MAF and let it sit for 2-3 minutes off. Started like a champ and has made it 137 miles with OUT the CEL coming back on. How is this possible?! I thought the CEL would come back and tell me something about the MAF being unplugged but it didn't. It didn't stall once, idles beautifully and honestly is running better than it has in 6 months.

Is there any way it is NOT my MAF because nothing really improves when I change it out. help? I am so clueless at this point, I feel like I have tried everything.

Codes BEFORE I unplugged it but after the first stall and reset - P0103 and P1127
99 NB. AEG 5 speed with 90k mi. I DO NOT have the computer/engine that locks everything and limp modes everything when I unplug the battery or the battery dies. ALSO, I can program my own keyfobs. I include this information in case it means I have an early version of the programming.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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5,634 Posts
I find it hard to believe that you have had that many issues and it still be the part going bad.

If it were me I would look into the following parts ...

MAF (just to be sure)
Coil and Coil control module
Wire and Plugs (I use OEM/stock only)
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Pump

... and all of the connectors for these parts and find the tiny vacuum leak that you mentioned. Oh, if you can hear it, it is not tiny.

A P01127 is the EVAP Canister Regulator Valve and/or Fuel Pressure Regulator
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Okay, posting about it must have jinxed it because on the way home from work today Ruby threw two codes: P0102 and P0112. I assume these codes are from the MAF being unplugged but it certainly took it awhile to figure it out.

Thanks so much for the reply, I definitely agree that there is something else going on but none of the repair people seem to agree. I fix the thing myself 99% of the time but it got to the point where it was dangerous to drive due to the stalling so I took it in. They said MAF needs to be changed out despite my case that it had to be something else, so I left.

Fixed the major vacuum leak and it is now safe to drive just frustrating.

"MAF (just to be sure)
Coil and Coil control module
Wire and Plugs (I use OEM/stock only)
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Pump"
  1. My neighbor suggested that it may be the connector for the MAF and that is like $7 to replace so I will order that tonight before ordering a new MAF.
  2. Coil and Coil control module: I changed out the coil pack (is that the same thing?) about 11k miles ago but did not change out the control module.
  3. Wires and Plugs, replaced with OEM at the same time.
  4. Fuel injectors, this is a new one for me. I'll do some research on that.
  5. Fuel pump, had crossed my mind but I am unsure how to diagnose that. I'll look into it.
I think the most frustrating thing is how beautifully it runs sometimes. I feel like it cannot be a major problem with anything that actually runs the engine but something that tells those items how to run... And the vacuum leak. I guess I meant tiny in comparison to small wind tunnel I had before :D. I am definitely working on that issue.

Thanks so much for the new ideas, if you or anyone else has more to say I am all ears. I am so desperate for this thing to work.
 

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I'm at the dealer right now having my connector to the MAF replaced. They are charging me $200 to do it. 2001 AVH engine.

They say the MAF is bad too, but I can replace that myself. I swapped it with a non-OEM one and immediately swapped it back because it ran worse with it than the stock - probably because the stock liked the failing connector better.

Have you bought new genuine Bosch OEM replacements (not refurbed?
 

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Ruby's master mechanic
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
$200?! OMG, I'm amazed that I haven't been told to fix that yet. I was planning on switching it out because my neighbor used to be a VW mechanic and said it used to be a common problem he saw and that he'll help me fix it if I buy the part.

As for the MAF, I have done both. I did a refurb the first time but when it "died" so quickly I replaced it with an OEM MAF.

So, an update: I have purchased all new vacuum line, heavy duty silicone lines. Thinking maybe my "tiny" leak is due to low-quality wrapped lines. I have also bought the MAF connector and new wires, just waiting on them to be delivered. MAF is still unplugged and the car is driving wonderfully. I know it isn't the best way to run my car but its my daily driver and I have no choice until I figure this out.

As always, thanks to all who have replied and to anyone who may throw in their two cents in the future. All help is greatly appreciated.
 

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$200?! OMG, I'm amazed that I haven't been told to fix that yet. I was planning on switching it out because my neighbor used to be a VW mechanic and said it used to be a common problem he saw and that he'll help me fix it if I buy the part.

As for the MAF, I have done both. I did a refurb the first time but when it "died" so quickly I replaced it with an OEM MAF.

So, an update: I have purchased all new vacuum line, heavy duty silicone lines. Thinking maybe my "tiny" leak is due to low-quality wrapped lines. I have also bought the MAF connector and new wires, just waiting on them to be delivered. MAF is still unplugged and the car is driving wonderfully. I know it isn't the best way to run my car but its my daily driver and I have no choice until I figure this out.

As always, thanks to all who have replied and to anyone who may throw in their two cents in the future. All help is greatly appreciated.
I know $200 was WAY overpaying for what they did (really simple fix) and I know I could have done it, but I was really paying for them to hook it up to their scanners and tell me live data since I don't have a scanner that reads VWs.

But I got to quiz him for free about all the following: why my airbag light is on, how to fix my passenger door that is sticky, confirmed how to get to side marker that is under the mirror on the passenger side, told me the cheesy yellow electrical tape fix was done by a dealer (thought it was lameness of the previous owner), pulled a spark plug to see if it was due for change, how to fix seat release, and washed my car.

I only drove it about 15 miles after the connector fix, but it seemed to be running much much smoother. Fingers crossed.
 
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