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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't believe that it has been a nearly a year already since I bought Lucky. http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/60270-brief-introduction-few-questions.html

In that year, I have thoroughly enjoyed the experience of owning a New Beetle. The performance and efficiency have been better than expected, but what has surprised me the most is the solid reliability. My car should roll over to 100k miles sometime today and I would like to know what maintenance should be performed in order to keep this up. I just replaced the timing belt and all of the accessories such as the water pump and tensioners. What else needs to be done?
 

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My bug recently hit 100k and I asked the same question. Many mentioned checking vacuum hoses as they tend to weather poorly, brakes, cv boots, battery fuse box as they have overheating/melting issues, cabin air filter which can get ignored (be sure to vacuum out all debris in there). Some cleanings I recently did would be the MAF sensor and the throttle body, someone mentioned to me cleaning out the combi valve which i'm not sure where it is.
 

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cambi valve

My bug recently hit 100k and I asked the same question. Many mentioned checking vacuum hoses as they tend to weather poorly, brakes, cv boots, battery fuse box as they have overheating/melting issues, cabin air filter which can get ignored (be sure to vacuum out all debris in there). Some cleanings I recently did would be the MAF sensor and the throttle body, someone mentioned to me cleaning out the combi valve which i'm not sure where it is.
Cambi valve is right under the coolant manifold towards the fire wall, fallow the air hose from the SAI pump and you'll find it, you gotta remove the airbox out of the way. clean the diverter valve also. You might want to use plastic safe cleaner like the CRC mass air flow cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for that I will look into cleaning and changing those soon.

I have started making a short list of things that I think should be done. I am the second owner of this car I think that some things could have been neglected. Please feel free to add to it.

Change gear oil.
Change spark plugs.
Change both air filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As I am making my way through the list, I thought of a couple of things.

Can anyone suggest a good product to use on the leather seats? I have never used one before. The seats look to be the original grey material with little wear and no tears.

Is there maintenance involved with the power spoiler such as lubrication? According to the manual, it activates automatically at 93 mph (150 kph) which means that it is seldom used because I rarely turn it on manually.
 

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Also don't overlook simple things such as drive belts and the auto tensioner, if you live in a humid area or area that sees a lot of rain/moisture, I'd consider doing a brake fluid flush and refill, also take a peek at your power steering fluid, 100k's on factory fluids is when we would generally replace them at the dealer. And for the rear spoiler just try a bit of 3M silicone paste on the moveable surfaces and joints. I recommend 3m silicone paste because you do not want any grease that is petroleum based getting anywhere near rubber seals or gaskets! Because those petroleum based greases will eat away those rubber seals and gaskets causing them to dry out and crack.

The general 100k items for most cars these days is....

Timing belt, water pump, tensioner's, pulleys. Normally in a timing belt kit
Thermostat
Coolant flush, generally happens when timing belt/water pump service is done
Spark Plugs
Replace crankshaft and camshaft oil seals
Replace valve cover gasket (these are known to leak over time)
Gearbox fluid drain and fill
Engine oil and oil cooler drain and replace
Oil filter replacement
Serpentine drive belt inspect replace as needed
Drive belt tensioner inspect replace as needed
Air filter inspect replace as needed
Cabin filter inspect replace as needed
Inspect ball joints, CV Boots and wheel bearings
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brakes for uneven wear or warping replace as needed
Replace PCV valve
Inspect Diverter Valve Operation
Inspect and clean Combi valve
Inspect turbocharger for leaks on intake side, and exhaust side, inspect oil feed, drain and coolant lines into turbocharger.
Inspect intercooler, if slight oil residue is present clean, slight oil residue is normal
Inspect and clean throttle body replace gasket if unable to reuse do to rip or tear
Replace fuel filter element
Use silicone paste to lubricate window channels and door seals
Adjust parking brake
Inspect clutch operation
Inspect brake fluid replace as needed

That's typically the 100k check we would do at the dealer, not all those items would be performed as most customers didn't see the importance of lubricating seals or replacing seals that were not leaking.

Hope this information helps you out good luck! And congrats on 100k it's just starting to break in ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know that the gear oil needs to be gl 4 75w90, but does it matter what brand? I am confused because I have read conflicting accounts of nearly every brand including oem. What have you all used and how has it worked out?
 

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I know that the gear oil needs to be gl 4 75w90, but does it matter what brand? I am confused because I have read conflicting accounts of nearly every brand including oem. What have you all used and how has it worked out?
To be honest in all of my vehicles I use only OEM fluids and filters unless it has something installed like a aftermarket intake or the engine is built with forged internals and race bearings.

Other than that I just use OEM fluids and filters, you have to think if those fluids, filters and parts got you this far why change it up now? I just stand by the motto "you get what you pay for" when it comes to cars and the parts used and the quality of the parts.

OEM fluids gets my vote and has been working well for me :) good luck with your decision :goodjob:
 

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gear oil

I know that the gear oil needs to be gl 4 75w90, but does it matter what brand? I am confused because I have read conflicting accounts of nearly every brand including oem. What have you all used and how has it worked out?
haven't changed it still have the original Tranny oil and have no issues so far after 193k miles (knock on wood):p I read that folks around here are using redline, it's good stuff I hear.
 

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haven't changed it still have the original Tranny oil and have no issues so far after 193k miles (knock on wood):p I read that folks around here are using redline, it's good stuff I hear.
Redline is pretty decent, I've used it in my Evo and I know Snap-On uses it in there Air Tools, the one oil brand I shy away from is Mobil 1, there is a extensive thread about it almost 450 pages long on the NASIOC Subaru forum that's interesting I can share the link if anyone is interested, it has details of a study that blackstone laboratories did and they are an oil analysis company. Really an eye opener.
 

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Used Redline when I changed my gear oil and have had a great experience with it. Work the money in my book.
 

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What else needs to be done?
Control arm bushings
Ball joints
Tie rods
Struts (while you are there, extra 15 minutes)

You wont know what new is until you have changed these...

Oils: Lubro/Liqui Moly. Stick with synthetic whatever oil. Sorry guys.. I'm at 180k miles and my valves and valve stems are spotless. Inside oil tray, spotless. Valve cover, spotless.

Oil pick-up tube and windage tray (its plastic)


OH, Change the flower in the stupid vase next to the steering wheel.

last but not least... When something breaks, fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you all for the information. One thing that bothers me is the gear oil. I am probably going with Amsoil, but I wanted to go with an oem fluid because the transmission is in really good shape with it. It never grinds nor is notchy even when cold. The problem with that is I have no idea which one or even if it matters. It seems that there are a few basic versions and then beneath those designations there are even more variants. Im confused.:confused:
 

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Thank you all for the information. One thing that bothers me is the gear oil. I am probably going with Amsoil, but I wanted to go with an oem fluid because the transmission is in really good shape with it. It never grinds nor is notchy even when cold. The problem with that is I have no idea which one or even if it matters. It seems that there are a few basic versions and then beneath those designations there are even more variants. Im confused.:confused:
To add to your confusion,

Lubro Moly 2019 gear treatment & Lubro Moly 2048 gear oil.

Enjoy the confusion. I use it in my BMW's as gear oil of choice.
 

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Thank you all for the information. One thing that bothers me is the gear oil. I am probably going with Amsoil, but I wanted to go with an oem fluid because the transmission is in really good shape with it. It never grinds nor is notchy even when cold. The problem with that is I have no idea which one or even if it matters. It seems that there are a few basic versions and then beneath those designations there are even more variants. Im confused.:confused:
I got over 300,000 miles on my '98 and it has Amsoil in the gearbox. I still average 25-30 mpg in mixed driving. The wife's turbo is using Redline MT90.
 
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