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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent many hours today fitting a an ebay special window regulator assembly, multiple times. Old cable was chewed and the connector had broken. The cable is too long even after setting it to the taughtest it could get it. Didn't get the job finished will have to get an OEM regulator kit. Buy cheap buy twice.

I'm not sure why the roof wont go back up. Maybe it needs resetting. I couldn't operate it manually though as the flap on the side that i was not working on, is now stuck down. I didn't have the brains to disconnect the ball arm when it was up. Now the roof is stuck down, i don't have a garage and i'm in England, so it's proably going to piss down with rain at some point soon. I have the semblance of a cover over it for now.

I would be grateful if anyone could let me know if there is a way out of this pickle?

2004 model, right hand drive, right hand side rear panel removed, regulator connected and working.

Can the stuck (down) flap be lifted manually without breaking it i.e. can the ball joint doofer be unclipped while the flap is down? That would enable me to get roof up manually at least.

I have a cheap code reader, not a proper VW one. It shows live data but i'm not sure to what extent. Last time the roof got stuck down, closing it manually reset it successfully but i can't do that this time.

I presume the inner rear panel being off does not stop the roof working either?

Thanks in advance...
 

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The best solution, best quality and cost effective route; is the genuine vw window regulator “repair kit”, less expensive, which requires some work to get on the pulleys but is doable. There are some videos on youtube; that give some tips on the cable (which can be very tight), getting them on the pulley.


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As to getting the top closed, you might try the workaround procedure, shown in the ross tech youtube video; when the system has a fault in the system and stops working.

 

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Some, have also; had luck, doing a “hard reset” of the ecu, (remove + and - battery cable terminal ends; touch them together, reinstall on the battery). This maybe a temporary fix, if there are still faults in the convertible top control system; a diagnosis pinpointing the specific cause of the problem, may require using a vw factory level scan tool, to read the trouble codes.

There are a number of popular scanners, vcds by ross tech, OBDEleven and many cheaper knock off “vag” code readers, scan tools sold on Amazon and eBay.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
in case this is of interest to anyone, the reason that the Ebay repair kit initially failed was because the plastic connector that joins the 2 cables was installed upside down. Flipping it added the additional tension to the cable required for the reg repair job to be a good'un.

Thanks to all posters on this thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
As to getting the top closed, you might try the workaround procedure, shown in the ross tech youtube video; when the system has a fault in the system and stops working.

(Long post warning: tedious meandering narrative preceding a simple request for: removal of inner windshield-trim advice)

Thanks for linking this video @billymade, i've watched it quite a few times now and although i haven't bought any diagnostic VCDS tackle yet, I've decided to go ahead and swap out the most likley culprit failed microswitch, the F171 located above the passenger side windshield US / driver side UK. I've seen a few YT's suggest sometimes fettling with the switch can coax it back to life. I'm thinking a blast of contact cleaner wouldn't go amiss. And for 25-quid i have an ebay special on the way as a back up arriving this weekend.

To confirm: I have tried the 'roadside workaround' of lifting the right hand side (looking straight at it from behind) and activating the swich multiple times. I've also tried the 'hard reset' removed battery contacts for 15-minutes twice, and it didn't work (one time connecting them via a ratched extension bar (if that actually counts as touching them together)) I've also tried lifting the roof 'manually' by untwisting the hydraulics pressure doofer in the boot, but, the roof flap is down one side and you need to be able to access the red pull cord underneath it to release the roof lock to continue with the 'manual' method. There is no pull cord that side either, been gone long time.

The F202 / F171 combined microswitch (please confirm if it's not combined, that's how i interpret the video above) being the most common fault, i'm going to try that first and hope that and maybe another battery disconnection for good measure, might spur it into life.

I have spent quite a time searching for information online on how to (successfully) remove the inner plastic panels around the top of the windshield. I can't find anthing to tell me where to start and how to remove them without unnecessary breakages or losses of molded plastic mounting pieces. I don't have a repair manual right now either. I have also searched on this forum and can't find anything, i'm using the wrong search terms. Anyway I would be grateful if you could give me any steer.

I managed to repair the rear window reg without losing or breaking anything, hoping to repeat same for works to get the microswitch removed and refitted.
 

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For a overall understanding of the top design and sensor locations; download the self study program:

Self Study Program 281 – The New Beetle Cabriolet PDF.


A VW scan tool; would enable you to read the trouble code and pinpoint the sensor, causing the problem.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For a overall understanding of the top design and sensor locations; download the self study program:

Self Study Program 281 – The New Beetle Cabriolet PDF.


A VW scan tool; would enable you to read the trouble code and pinpoint the sensor, causing the problem.


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@billymade you little beauty you've got me right out of trouble again mate I owe you a good few pints now. Manual flap operation is explained in that PDF, i haven't seen if before. nice work, thanks for taking the time to post that link. That buys me more time to much about with it. Next purchase is the scan tool.
 

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Here is a online service manual; not the same year but i would think would be similar:



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@billymade many thanks again mate for all the information you posted above, i am genuinely grateful mucker. If you're ever in London there's a few pints with your name on waiting for you.

I got me a black market VCDS reader and i have the following for the roof that i would also be grateful for a kick in the right direction on (from anyone):

Address 26: Auto Roof Labels: 1Y0-959-255-HYD.lbl
Part No: 1Y0 959 255
Component: VSG NBC 2604
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 7DF14CF327F16763A8-515A

3 Faults Found:
02000 - Switch Position
008 - Implausible Signal
02461 - Position Sensor for Right Linkage Flap Position Sensor (G443)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent


Regarding fault 02000 i will first try changing the F171 microswitch which, according to Rosstech, is the most likely culprit.

Fault 02461, the flap is currently removed, i'm guessing this is not a showstopper for the electric roof function, it is simply acknowledging the flap is open/removed.

Fault 01334 - I don't understand this, there is no 'rear right' door control module....any thoughts?

I have other faults shown for the 'Central Conv', i think this is a different issue, i will start another thread for this.

Cheers

MM
 
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