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2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Ahh got it, so the other side of the disk has been shredded and the oil/grease looking stuff is the clutch material?

If the other side of the disk is shredded and the pressure plate has clutch material all over it, was the clutch disk in backward?
Looking back I’m pretty sure the clutch disc was installed backwards or im about to install mine backwards, but I defiantly have the disc flywheel side on the flywheel. So my guess is they did a clutch replacement right before I bought the car and didn’t change the pivot ball and installed the clutch backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
so I have yet to install my clutch Im ready to but the more I think about it the more I’m confused. I believe the manual and the clutch actually say two different things.unless the manual says in a beat around the bush way to install them the same on both dmf and smf. I will attach pictures of the page in the manual and also my clutch against my flywheel on the flywheel side
Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle tire Motor vehicle

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The flywheel and pressure plate; can only go on one way; the orientation of the disc, would be marked on the disc itself and that, confirms which side is correct.

What are you questioning; at this point?


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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
The book made it seem like there were two different ways so I was just making sure. Where exactly does the assembly bolt go that holds the clutch release lever while installing transmission. I don’t think I have that bolt. So can I just put the transmission in without the slave on then once I have the transmission bolted up to the engine I can install slave. Is that correct.
 

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  • 1: Gearbox
  • 2: Ball stud, 25 Nm
    • ◆ Lubricate with MoS2 grease
  • 3: Input shaft oil seal
    • ◆ Renewing
  • 4: Guide sleeve
    • ◆ With vulcanised or bonded O-ring
    • ◆ If damaged or loose, replace guide sleeve and O-ring together
    • ◆ Lubricate guide sleeve in area of release bearing with MoS2 grease
  • 5: Retaining spring
    • ◆ Secure to clutch release lever

  • 6: Securing bolt, 20 Nm
  • 7: Clutch release lever
    • ◆ Remove and install together with release bearing => fig.1 and fig.2
    • ◆ Lubricate contact surface of ball stud with MoS2 grease
  • 8: Release bearing
    • ◆ Do not wash-out bearing, only wipe
    • ◆ Renew noisy bearings
    • ◆ Lubricate surfaces which contact release lever with MoS2 grease
  • 9: Securing bolt, 20 Nm
  • 10: Slave cylinder
    • ◆ Removing and installing
      => Page 30-11
  • 11: Plunger
    • ◆ Grease end of plunger with MoS2 grease

  • 12: Assembly bolt
    • ◆ Secures the clutch release lever when installing gearbox
    • ◆ Unscrew after gearbox has been installed
Note:
If the assembly bolt (Item12 ) is not available, an M 8 x 35 bolt can be used.



I'm not clear, as to what "bolts" you are referring to; in relation to the 02J clutch release lever? What are you missing?

Here is the service manual pages; showing the exploded view of the parts and install info:


You should be able to get any missing parts from your local VW dealer or fcpeuro, etc.

www.parts.vw.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
number 12. Assembly bolt. Says to secure the release lever while installing gear box then remove once gear box is installed. Wouldn’t it be difficult if not impossible to take a securing bolt off the release lever after the gearbox has been installed.
 

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I haven’t worked with that particular 02J transmission; I’m not clear where the bolt goes or what it is supposed to do. Maybe somebody else that has worked with the 02J; can comment, on this issue like jarhead?


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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
well it’s back together I had it running and the used cooling fans I got with my radiator didn’t turn so I switched them out for the original ones and now it doesn’t even try to start. I don’t have a multimeter to test the battery im bout to go get it tested it’s a fairly new battery so I’m not sure if that’s my problem I even tried jumping it off with no luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I was actually looking ar that earlier. It’s not my battery it tested good so no I’m going to buy a multimeter and go through check all the main sensors and clean all my grounds. Also bought new battery terminals for the third time.
 

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I haven’t worked with that particular 02J transmission; I’m not clear where the bolt goes or what it is supposed to do. Maybe somebody else that has worked with the 02J; can comment, on this issue like jarhead?


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Sorry billy I just saw this, I have never used nor seen an “assembly bolt” and while I’m not an expert I don’t see how once the transmission was installed you’d be able to get it out either.

I’ve looked over that diagram and while I don’t have an 02j sitting in front of me i don’t remember anyplace for a bolt as described. Nor do I remember any talk of that “assembly bolt” over at tdiclub.

Put your transmission together without it if you haven’t already done so, one word of caution make absolutely sure that the end of the clutch arm is secured to the pivot ball by that clip. Which is done by pushing/snapping the arm with the clip in place onto that pivot ball and the clip stays in place because it’s secured behind the “hat” that is on the pivot ball.
 

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This is the first I have heard of it as well; the 02M six speed. doesn't have anything related to that either but in that case, the throwout bearing is a different hydraulic design setup.

I wonder, if it somehow; secures, the clutch release lever together with the throwout bearing, spring, pivot bolt, so it doesn't come apart, during assembly? Go figure?

NOTE: it says this for the bolt:


  • 12: Assembly bolt
    • ◆ Secures the clutch release lever when installing gearbox
    • ◆ Unscrew after gearbox has been installed
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
I used a Allen wrench to hold the release fork in place while installing. My fans were not kicking in with my ac cause I had my ac lines off so no refridgate in them. During the test drive it ticks almost like my cv axle is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
So while installing my cv axles the boot on the inner side tore. I’ve never really messed with cv axles before is the boot necessary. Could it make a noise that fast I don’t experience this click before the clutch went out
 

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If the boot is torn/ripped then it needs replacing. I just bought an inner boot kit from autozone which included the boot, cork cv gasket, axle nut, circlip, and I think a tie rod end nut. Made by Rein. It seems to be an actual rubber boot and not the cheap chinese plastic crap. If left the axle will fail, or rather the joint will fail.
 

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If the CV joint is clicking, you may want to inspect the inner cv joint parts for damage, wear or if the joints popped out and it’s not inserted correctly.

Here is a good cv axle tech bulletin guide, from GKN; the oem for vw, it covers boot replacement and joint inspection, etc.


GKN sells replacement cv joint and replacement boot kits; sold under their parts line; in the, GKN, Spidan and Loebro brands.

Repairing a OEM stock VW axle may be a better long term solution; than buying a cheap Chinese knock off axle from a local auto parts store. Many of the cheaper axles are not balanced well, not made the same specs and can cause vibration or premature failure, many just don’t last long and you end up replacing them again or out of frustration, upgrade to genuine VW or oem GKN axles. A quality OEMCV axle should last a substantial amount of time and if caught early you can replace boots before requiring a full replacement.


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