VW Beetle Forum banner
161 - 178 of 178 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts

·
Registered
2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Yeah I changed the boot dang sure gonna need to order a better one. Pretty sure I got the cheap Chinese generic ones it was not a fun install. I was able to drive my car 25 miles last night it seemed decent between the clutch and the shift bushings it sure feels like a different car. I changed my sway bar link bolt for one that actually got tight (think that was the main isssue of the click). Y’all have been a huge help through this whole project I appreciate y’all’s time and effort to help me get my car going again.
 

·
Registered
2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #164 ·
I guess if I had one more question it would be to jarhead and that would be what do the bolts that hold the lines to the bottom of the transmission it’s almost like there was thread inserts that fall out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
I guess if I had one more question it would be to jarhead and that would be what do the bolts that hold the lines to the bottom of the transmission it’s almost like there was thread inserts that fall out.
The ones I've seen have a little clip that's threaded and the clip can be removed. The clip fits into and over a "slot" on the housing. A new clip may be in order, or someone may have jury rigged something to get by.
 

·
Registered
2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Is the clip on the line and the clip that is threaded the same or two different clips. Basically Is their a clip for the line and a clip for the spot on the transmission or is it all the same one.
 

·
Registered
2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #167 ·
it's almost been a month since the beetle of mine has been rolling on all 4s. Nearly 7000 miles. The shifting was great tell about a week ago. So I adjusted it using diesel geeks method. There is even a video where he shims the sphere with a piece of card stock paper so I tried to do that as welll. The paper didn't fit. After adjusting everything seemed fine again. Nearly 200 miles later and two blowouts. The shifter locked up. Couldn't get into any gear I pulled over adjusted again. Had a few gears but not all of them. Went further down the road to adjust them again adjusted them still couldn't find all the gears. I took off the shift tower where I found little oil And a m10 bolt (transmission was whinning but I thought it was my cv due to the Chinese boot). After adjusting and adding oil and reinstallling it. It seems like something is binding up the side to side motion of the gear shifter. Real easy to find 3and 4 but it's almost like it doesn't go far enough to find the others. Does this sound like a sychnizor,linkage,or a actually shift sphere problem. Also neutral is pretty low as compared to before. Even driving now if I can shoot the gear in the correct position it goes in smoothly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts
I had shifting issues and looseness in the shifter assembly over time; i had replaced some bushings with the DG versions but had problems adjusting things. It wasn’t until i did a full rebuild with stock VW replacement parts and DG bushings; that i was finally, able to easily adjust the shifter correctly, much easier then before and the shifting quality was restored, to like new.

Following DG’s advice, i tried to shim; the shifter ball bushing, it was ok at first and then, the shifter stick stuck when going into reverse and wouldn’t pop back out if in the push down mode, making getting into other gears a problem. This forced me to rebuild everything, double check the whole shifter system and replace the shifter stick, ball bushing, which DG, seems to just shim.

Replacing ALL the wear parts at once; made all the difference and I upgraded to the DG Sigma Shifter as well. I am convinced after 100k and into the 10+ year mark; the shifters are typically worn and need a refresh, to work correctly (now most of these era VW’s are in the 15-20+ year range).

To learn more, about the rebuild process; review this thread:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2003, new beetle, 2.0 avh,5speed
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #169 ·
I'm pretty tight on funds at the moment so with the information you provided and driving more I was able to determine 1st was pretty much were reverse should be so I pushed my shifter down as if i was going in 1st and then put the 7mm pen in the hole. Then readjusted the shifter and it seems to be on point so far Noticed my crank case seals were leaking was I supposed to use new bolts do you happen to know the thread pitch of them I looked the Volkswagen link that's in your post all it gives Is a part number I would venture to say they are m8x1.25 or m10x1.50
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts
I don’t know the part number you are referring to; you might google it and see if some sites list the size, thread pitch, etc.

Otherwise you could run down to your hardware or home improvement store; match up your bolt with their nuts or many have a display with a identification pitch and bolt size gauge, on a board, you can use.

You can also purchase a bolt size and pitch gauge for cheap, good thing to have on hand, to identify fasteners you are working with.

Below are some examples from Lowe’s



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts
I’ve used Felpro in the past on my 1.8T, from my local AutoZone and it was fine; still no leaks after years of use. Quality wise, Victor Reinz seems to be a bit better and then Elring, from what i have seen is top quality and rumor has it, they may supply seals, gaskets to VW.

Correct installation technique and following any supplier specific instructions; is crucial for a leak free seal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,285 Posts
Also, since you bought it from FCPEURO; you have a lifetime warranty and your next one is free, credited back, after the return is processed.

Lifetime Warranty return process:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
The Teflon seal does require a somewhat special procedure.

The seal comes with a plastic installation disk, do not remove that disk. Clean the end of the crank shaft with brake clean or dollar store rubbing alcohol so that the area where the seal contacts the crank is completely free of oil. If your oil pan is still on the car apply RTV along the bottom of the seal where it contacts the oil pan. Then orient the crank seal over the end of the crankshaft and push it firmly and quickly into place. The plastic disk will pop off at that time and the crank seal is perfectly installed.

Torque the seal bolts properly. Do not move the crankshaft for four hours, which is about the amount of time it takes to finish the clutch anyway. I often let mine set overnight.
 
161 - 178 of 178 Posts
Top