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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two questions, actually:
1) Both of my rear window regulators have broken again and I am sick and tired of fooling with them... Do they HAVE to drop part of the way for the power top to lower?

I am not sure why the windows drop at all when we lower the top....must be a reason... maybe it is necessary for the seal in the top to close tightly?

Can I disable the rear regulators and keep the rear windows all the up and still use the top or will some error occur? If an error occurs how would I work around it and fool the car into thinking the windows did drop, or would I risk causing damage to the top?

2) Assuming there is not a way to fool the car, and assuming that I can raise and lower the top manually with the rear windows up, is there a safe way to open and close the top manually every time? In other words just treat the top as a manual top.

If I have to repair the rear windows again (and again and again...this will be the third time) so that the power top work then I would be content to just manually raise and lower the top every time....and forget the convenience of a power top.

This is a 2003 with fairly high mileage and frankly the car is not worth the cost of repeated regulator repairs...and we have not even run into the other common and expensive problems yet. (knock on wood).

Thanks for any thoughts on the issue!!
 

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1 - The Roof Electronics needs to know that the windows are out of the way before it will start to operate the top. The reason is to prevent damage to the windows. If they didn't drop down out of the way, the top could push/pull on them in such a manner that could/would cause them to shatter. So yes, the windows must drop down.

2 - You can undo the petcock valve at the pump and get the flaps out of the way, thus manually open or close the top. But again, glass flexes only so much before it shatters. Not sure if you would get the Roof Electronics to lock the top in the open position this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Pencilneck for the advice...I guess I must repair the regulators once again. I wish that someone would come up with a permanent fix for these regulators, at least make that plastic cable joiner out of metal...

I know that some of the NBC's came with a manual top....I wonder how much trouble and expense it would be to convert my power top to a manual top. These tops are so complicated that given the age of our 2003 Beetle many problems with this power top are on the horizon. Sometimes I really miss the Miata that we had. Thanks for your thoughts and help!
 

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JJ Coolcat
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jj coolcat

The windows on my 2005 convertible stopped dropping down when the top is unlocked preventing the up down switch from working. Got roof to go down after lowering the windows with the switches then unlocking the roof but it won't latch open and the warning light and buzzer stay on open or closed. any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have been told that almost all power windows stop dropping or going up when the motor takes the window to it's end of travel and the motor instantly begins to overheat which throws a micro switch, then motor then resets. If that is true then a motor with a slightly defective (or mis-engineered) switch might pull and tugg on the cable longer than it is supposed to...which could, I surmise, cause all of these regulator failures. Anyone have any thoughts about that? I know I am weary of having these rear window regulators repaired!!!

jtcgraham....
I do not have clue as to how to answer your question, but I think that you have answered one of my questions. From what you state, apparently, unless the windows automatically drop the top will not go down properly, or at least leaves an error message.

Perhaps you should originate a new Thread with your question...you question may not get noticed here....I would love to better understand how this power top system works!
Slowdog
 

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The windows on my 2005 convertible stopped dropping down when the top is unlocked preventing the up down switch from working. Got roof to go down after lowering the windows with the switches then unlocking the roof but it won't latch open and the warning light and buzzer stay on open or closed. any ideas?
Two things I can think of that would cause the windows to not drop down when the top is unlatched... the F202 or wiring isn't correct, so the Roof Electronics doesn't know the top has been unlatched. VCDS by Ross Tech can give you live data for the top operation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWTrK8-BxpM

Or the Basic Settings for the power windows has been lost (battery disconnected for example). To perform the Basic Settings, just roll the windows up all the way, then pull up on each window switch for 3 seconds, 3 times in a row.

Another thing that I find annoying... Audi A8 owners that put in the cheapest battery they can find and then wonder why things aren't working. When you buy a car that cost way more than my first house, you can afford the correct battery. If you can't afford the correct battery, you have no business owning an A8. But this is a rant for another day.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I repaired my two rear regulators this week (using the cable repair kits). Oddly both snapped at the same time. The repair shop had installed a cable kit a year ago on the passenger side and it broke again.

When I installed the repair kit to that passenger side regulator I noticed that the previous mechanic had installed the plastic cable retainer (the part that usually fails) upside down. The plastic retainer still looked new but the cable had come off and wrapped around the motor and was thus ruined. I almost made the same mistake but I looked closely at the photos on this forum, the VW service bulletin and the shop manual and realized that the previous guy had it wrong. Would installing the plastic retainer upside down cause the cable to come off?

Now my new problem...I cannot get the rear passenger side panel to snap back tightly on the top front of the panel (just behind the front door). The clips are in place but the top clip does not seem to engage or hold. The panel appears to be in the correct place, just loose. I replaced that top clip (although it looked fine) but the panel still will not snap tight. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong?? The driver side panel went back fine...

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pencilneck, you are correct about the guides, but they line up fine and the panel will easily push up tight, it just will not snap and stay in place up on the top part of the panel. I thought that there may be some trick to it and that I just got lucky on the driver's side rear panel since it snapped up tight.

Although I replaced the upper clip perhaps the part that is made into the body (the female side) is bad, but I do not know how to replace that. I hate to do it but I guess I will have to use some silicone sealer and try to "glue" it up....in a manner that I can get it back off when that cable retainer breaks again. In fact, it is probably the removal of that panel so many times to repair that regulator that has worn the female clip down. Thanks for the input!! At least (due to the good help from you and others) both rear windows now work very smoothly...and I did not break anything...

To anyone electing to repair your rear regulators, just follow the step by step instructions provided on this forum and the videos....take your time and be careful and all will be well....and probably be repaired much better than a shop will do!
 
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