Many problems, New Beetle

5509 Views 29 Replies 9 Participants Last post by pcdj64, Feb 24, 2013

wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · Jan 4, 2013 (Edited)

Hey newbeetle.org,

My girlfriend just purchased a 2001 1.8 Turbo and so far its been nothing but problems and i've only just started attempting to fix them. First, when the drivers side door is opened, the interior lights remain off. If she tries to adjust the side view mirrors they do not work however the lights for the controls are on. The windows switch on the drivers side also does not work the windows but the passenger window works fine using the passenger side switch. If the doors are locked using the key fob, only the passenger side locks. And no matter how the trunk is unlocked, by interior switch of key fob, it always locks itself after a few seconds. So I suspected after reading through many threads that it was the driver control module and door lock actuator. Am I correct in thinking this?

This is what does work :Sunroof, passenger side locks, passenger side window, gas cap switch, trunk switch (for a few seconds), exterior lights, and interior lights in any condition other than driver's side door being opened.

On a seperate note, I replaced each speaker in the car and after she drives for a few minutes, the volume dulls completely to the point where she has to turn the radio to max and only the rear 6.5's work. Please help i'm ready to set the damn thing on fire.

I've had the door apart to where the glass was the only thing left. I was ready to replace the lock actuator but the junkyard door lock actuator I got for 5$ looked so rusted and worn I just threw it out and the driver control module I "found" inside the car was actually from the passenger side and doesn't fit the window motor on my beetle. Im going to the junkyard to pick up a Comfort Control Module incase one of you say that may be the problem. Only 5$ right?

Thanks,
-MW

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jfoj

· #2 · Jan 4, 2013

Sounds like the driver door latch is bad, this is a VERY common problem.

This is why your light in the driver door does not come on.

Some people have been able to resolder some of the joint in the latch mechanism, but as big a PITA it is to replace the latch, probably suggest a new one, they are about $125 wholesale at the dealer. See if the dealer will give you decent pricing.

Not sure about how the comfort control modules work in these cars, but could be something with the control module or maybe the window motor?

Get ready to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pick up if the oil pressure light comes on, assuming someone has not spoofed it! Oil dipstick tube will also need to be replaced. Oil pan is easy, about a 2 hour job.

Also plan on a timing belt, tension and water pump. If you loose the timing belt, you will have bent valves.

If an automatic trans, wait for the valve body problems!

Good luck, these are DIY cars, otherwise they are not worth the money you would need to spend on them.

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Smileybug

· #3 · Jan 4, 2013

I'd start with the drivers side lock module/microswitch and see what all that solves. Here are some good threads on the subject:

VWVortex.com - MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!!

Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!! - TDIClub Forums

The trunk just needs to be adjusted. If you search around here, I know there are threads about it.

jfoj

· #4 · Jan 4, 2013

Forgot the trunk issue, I believe there is either an adjustment and/or a new part. My 2003 has a spring that pops the lid above the latch so you do not have the relock problem. The spring is rather stout, to the point the trunk can be tricky to close.

jfoj

· #5 · Jan 4, 2013

Update, you likely need a new driver door window motor AND a driver door latch assembly??

See this thread with very similar issues - http://newbeetle.org/forums/new-bee...-power-windows-door-locks-mirrors-issues.html

05yellowbeetle

· #6 · Jan 5, 2013

Good news, the fix for the rear hatch should be free, here is a thread with pictures, it may take a few turns to get the hatch to pop up enough.

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...new-beetle/40788-any-way-make-rear-hatch.html

wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 5, 2013 (Edited)

I figured as much and I'm going to replace them one at a time. Found a new replacement door lock actuator and its on its way here. Girlfriend is driving without a door panel

. Its a 5 speed manual BTW, so I shouldn't have valve issues? Im used to working on Trans Ams, and Camaro's and F150's. I had always believed Ford was the most retarded in their designing. IDK why VW produced some of these components the way they did. Building the door locks switches, side mirrors switches, windows switches all into one central component seems retarded. I don't shy away from a DIY but this car will definitely be pretty frustrating for me. Hopefully because it only has 60k miles i'll get lucky.

I also took a driver control module off the driver's window motor of a Jetta but it didn't fit the Beetle's driver side window motor, but strangely the passenger one fits? I'm assuming its not going to work but im going to try it anyway.

Anyone have any clues as to why the stereo cuts out? I haven't replaced that yet. But its next once these issues are resolved.

Thanks everybody,
-MW

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IndyTom

· #8 · Jan 5, 2013

wagnerm672 said:
I don't shy away from a DIY but this car will definitely be pretty frustrating for me. Hopefully because it only has 60k miles i'll get lucky.

Thanks everybody,
-MW

I wouldn't count on it. These Beetle's are very High Maintanence and a Tinkerers dream

The mileage rarely has anything to do with it. You have to consider the age as well. BTW, if you haven't had the timing belt and water pump service done yet I would plan on that fairly soon. Like yesterday. Sure the mileage doesn't seem to be that high but the car is over 12 years old. Especially on a Turbo where heat is an issue. I wouldn't trust my engine to a 12 year old dry rotted rubber band, would you?

Once that timing belt goes it's bye bye head. It's an interference engine which means the valves and pistons will collide and then you will need to remove the head and have it rebuilt. Not cheap in these 20 valve engines. Plus the original water pump had "plastic" impellars which have been known to break into a thousand pieces and clog the cooling system and then there is the tensioner. If it locks up your timing belt will jump a few teeth which has the same results as it snapping. So do yourself and your girl friend a favor and have the timing belt service done ASAP. You can probably do it yourself and save some money. But take your time. One mistake and it's lights out.

Here is a complete timing belt kit with all the parts you need including new motor mount bolts and coolant.

Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Search > Timing Belt > ES#5954 ECS Tuning Timing Belt Kit - Ultimate Plus - 06B198479 V2WAF

Good Luck!

PS: If you don't want to do it yourself look for a VW shop in your area. (not the stealer) Expect to pay around $750-$800 for the service not including the Thermostat. Most places will charge you extra for the installation of the Thermostat because you have to take the Alternator off. There are ways around it but it's a lot easier if you do. Anyway, Most places will charge another $150 labor to install the Thermostat.
The dealer will typically charge between $1300-$1700 for the timing belt/water pump service.

So if you can do it yourself you can save a bundle. I did it in my garage. It took me 3 days. A VW expert with the proper equiptment can do it in 4 hours. So don't pay more than $400 in labor if you have it done plus Parts.

Good Luck.

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wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 5, 2013

IndyTom said:
I wouldn't count on it. These Beetle's are very High Maintanence and a Tinkerers dream

The mileage rarely has anything to do with it. You have to consider the age as well. BTW, if you haven't had the timing belt and water pump service done yet I would plan on that fairly soon. Like yesterday. Sure the mileage doesn't seem to be that high but the car is over 12 years old. Especially on a Turbo where heat is an issue. I wouldn't trust my engine to a 12 year old dry rotted rubber band, would you?

Once that timing belt goes it's bye bye head. It's an interference engine which means the valves and pistons will collide and then you will need to remove the head and have it rebuilt. Not cheap in these 20 valve engines. Plus the original water pump had "plastic" impellars which have been known to break into a thousand pieces and clog the cooling system and then there is the tensioner. If it locks up your timing belt will jump a few teeth which has the same results as it snapping. So do yourself and your girl friend a favor and have the timing belt service done ASAP. You can probably do it yourself and save some money. But take your time. One mistake and it's lights out.

Here is a complete timing belt kit with all the parts you need including new motor mount bolts and coolant.

Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Search > Timing Belt > ES#5954 ECS Tuning Timing Belt Kit - Ultimate Plus - 06B198479 V2WAF

Good Luck!

PS: If you don't want to do it yourself look for a VW shop in your area. (not the stealer) Expect to pay around $750-$800 for the service not including the Thermostat. Most places will charge you extra for the installation of the Thermostat because you have to take the Alternator off. There are ways around it but it's a lot easier if you do. Anyway, Most places will charge another $150 labor to install the Thermostat.
The dealer will typically charge between $1300-$1700 for the timing belt/water pump service.

So if you can do it yourself you can save a bundle. I did it in my garage. It took me 3 days. A VW expert with the proper equiptment can do it in 4 hours. So don't pay more than $400 in labor if you have it done plus Parts.

She is going to college and there is no way in hell she could afford that amount. Maybe down the road. For now, would it be cheaper for her to just do the belt and tensioner and later have the waterpump and thermostat put in? I understand it's preventative maintenance and the cost to repair if only ONE of those things break is immense. It's just not doable right now. I can get the belt and tensioner for a little over 20$. But let me guess, the belt won't just slip off and on like a nice V8?

P.S. You guys are great, some of the guys on the Pontiac forums can be *******s after i've become frustrated with a project and tell me to just google and keep searching. They never include links to the exact thing i'm trying to locate. Thank God my next car is a Cadillac hehehe.

IndyTom

· #10 · Jan 5, 2013 (Edited)

wagnerm672;822405 She is going to college and there is no way in hell she could afford that amount. Maybe down the road. For now said:
Timing belt and timing belt tensioner for 20 bucks?? Are we talking about the same belt?? Most V8 Pontiacs that I have worked on have timing chains not belts. Perhaps you are talking about the accessory belt!?

Either way, it would not be logical to just replace the timing belt without changing out the water pump. Besides, you would have to do the same thing over again once the pump goes and believe me it will. I am amazed it has lasted as long as it did. Those plastic impellars are well beyond their prime and definitely need to be replaced with a new metal impellar water pump. And no you can't just slip off the timing belt LOL
You will need to take the passenger motor mount off and the crank pulley and make sure you mark the belt and crank pulley properly or the timing will be way off. There is a lot more to swapping the timing belt then meets the eye. The water pump is easy and it would be totally insane not to do it when you change the "timing belt". I have a attached a PDF file with a DIY so you know what is involved in changing the timing belt. The accessory belt is cake and yes it does just slip off after taking the tension off but the timing belt is a totally different story.

If it were me and didn't have the money to keep up this beetle I would sell the car and get something more reliable for her to drive. This car will cost her a lot more if the maintenance isn't followed. Those few hundred dollars for the timing belt service will go into the thousands of dollars if the timing belt breaks and she need to get the head reworked.

jfoj

· #11 · Jan 5, 2013

Manual trans takes one major issue out of the running!

The water pump is only 3-4 bolts once you get to the timing belt and the timing belt drives the water pump, kind of a must do.

The problem is if the belt breaks, it is almost time to scrap the car due to the cost and time, or sell it as it for a BIG loss.

My attitude is of the belt breaks you have to replace the belt anyway, plus pull the head and spend money on the machine shop and deal with the down time.

If you can do a timing chain in an American V8 you can do a belt on one of these cars. The motor mount is a PITA, however, the rest of the job is fairly painless. For a novice taking their time, assume 6-7 hours, a pro who knows exactly what to expect can do the job in about 4 hours. I found some shops that specialize in VW that had the job figured out and had a firm quote of around $550 as I recall??

I almost said what the heck, let them do the job, but it was a 3 hour drive for me. So I just went ahead and did the work.

I was BIG nervous until I replaced the belt and I only had 72k on the car at the time.

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wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 5, 2013

IndyTom said:
Timing belt and timing belt tensioner for 20 bucks?? Are we talking about the same belt?? Most V8 Pontiacs that I have worked on have timing chains not belts. Perhaps you are talking about the accessory belt!?

Either way, it would not be logical to just replace the timing belt without changing out the water pump. Besides, you would have to do the same thing over again once the pump goes and believe me it will. I am amazed it has lasted as long as it did. Those plastic impellars are well beyond their prime and definitely need to be replaced with a new metal impellar water pump. And no you can't just slip off the timing belt LOL
You will need to take the passenger motor mount off and the crank pulley and make sure you mark the belt and crank pulley properly or the timing will be way off. There is a lot more to swapping the timing belt then meets the eye. The water pump is easy and it would be totally insane not to do it when you change the "timing belt". I have a attached a PDF file with a DIY so you know what is involved in changing the timing belt. The accessory belt is cake and yes it does just slip off after taking the tension off but the timing belt is a totally different story.

If it were me and didn't have the money to keep up this beetle I would sell the car and get something more reliable for her to drive. This car will cost her a lot more if the maintenance isn't followed. Those few hundred dollars for the timing belt service will go into the thousands of dollars if the timing belt breaks and she need to get the head reworked.

No Pontiac Trans Am's, the LT1 and LS1 models both had timing belts. LS2 and later engines come with timing chains. Rockauto.com has a metal impeller pump for $24.97, a timing belt for $9. and a belt tensioner for around $40. I would have no problem doing this. Its not me its her, she works full time 6 days a week. There's no way I can leave her car in my garage for days at a time while I do this. I suppose I have no alternative and this will be a summer time project. It's going to have to be.

Is there any way to check if the pump has been replaced short of taking everything apart?

Smileybug

· #13 · Jan 5, 2013

Good luck. With that many years on the belt, I wouldn't wait until summer. I'd get it done ASAP. It can certainly be done in a day.

And I think you are looking at the wrong belt at Rock Auto. The serp belt is listed around $9. Timing belt is more like $20+ for a good brand. You'll also need motor mount bolts and if you do the water pump you'll need the proper coolant (G12 from VW). The kits really are the best deal rather than piecing them together. Something like this Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Engine > Timing > Timing Belt Kit > ES#5954 ECS Tuning Timing Belt Kit - Ultimate Plus - 06B198479 V2WAF

wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 5, 2013

Smileybug said:
Good luck. With that many years on the belt, I wouldn't wait until summer. I'd get it done ASAP. It can certainly be done in a day.

And I think you are looking at the wrong belt at Rock Auto. The serp belt is listed around $9. Timing belt is more like $20+ for a good brand. You'll also need motor mount bolts and if you do the water pump you'll need the proper coolant (G12 from VW). The kits really are the best deal rather than piecing them together. Something like this Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Engine > Timing > Timing Belt Kit > ES#5954 ECS Tuning Timing Belt Kit - Ultimate Plus - 06B198479 V2WAF

I've got no choice. I'm also in college and definitely don't have the cash to shell out.Its possible it could've been replaced already and ill luck out. Any way to determine that? I can't take it off to inspect the ribs.

IndyTom

· #15 · Jan 5, 2013

wagnerm672 said:
I've got no choice. I'm also in college and definitely don't have the cash to shell out.Its possible it could've been replaced already and ill luck out. Any way to determine that? I can't take it off to inspect the ribs.

Very unlikely the timing belt service has already been done on that car. Seems with all the other issues the previous owner didn't really take very good care of his or her car. More than likely they got rid of it because these major maintenance items came due. Happens way to often.
If you or her can't afford the maintenance on this car why not sell it and get something that will be a tad more reliable that wont self destruct any second now.

wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 5, 2013

IndyTom said:
Very unlikely the timing belt service has already been done on that car. Seems with all the other issues the previous owner didn't really take very good care of his or her car. More than likely they got rid of it because these major maintenance items came due. Happens way to often.
If you or her can't afford the maintenance on this car why not sell it and get something that will be a tad more reliable that wont self destruct any second now.

Easier said than done good sir.

the female gender can be quite persuasive and stubborn.

jfoj

· #17 · Jan 6, 2013

A weekly rental car would be far cheaper than the money spent and down time for a cylinder head rework!

These are all choices we all have to make, unfortunately sometimes these are very bitter pills to swallow.

Just wait until here car leaves her stranded, then we will see how her attitude is!!

This is the ONLY saving grace about my Beetle, it has NEVER left anyone stranded. It cost me a pretty penny to get all the issues sorted and it runs and drives quite well now.

Do not forget things like the fuel filter, cheap and easy to do, screw driver or nut driver is the only tool needed. Just be VERY careful you fully understand how the fuel lines release, no tools needed, they are tricky and if you break the plastic ends, you are in TROUBLE!!

MrsBeetle

· #18 · Jan 6, 2013

Greetings and welcome

I'm a new "New" Beetle owner too and came to this forum a little over a month ago now (I think) with a 2005 NBC 1.8L Turbo GLS with 85k miles on her, and she'd been sorely neglected.

I'm going to chime in here because these guys saved my butt--or should I say Mrs Beetle's butt. I strongly urge you to buy that $240 something ECS timing belt/water pump kit because that's the one I bought--it has EVERYTHING you need including the fluid and the thermostadt & housing--such a bargain--and none of the parts are made in China. Remember to also use only distilled water, not tap water. You are blessed that you can do the labor yourself. I had to pay a mechanic nearly $600 to do the labor.

I owned VWs before, prior to the 80s, and these New Beetles are not the same. I would compare them to the BMWs. I had a 5 Series Touring Wagon and the New Beetle reminds me of this high performance driving machine in many ways. The costs to maintain are a lot. The Beetle has many issues, big and small. I did think I was buying a Volkswagen of back in the day; however, I've learned quickly they are not the same.

I know it's incredibly difficult (and costly) to turn around and sell something once you've bought it, but unless you LOVE this Beetle with a crazy passion and LOVE to tinker, you might want to plot and scheme of how to be rid of it.

I do urge you to do that timing belt/water pump service asap. And she needs synthetic oil. And she needs premium fuel. And on and on.

You might catch the bug and fall in love with her, and then you'll be in here a lot like the rest of us

hee hee!

I will help you as I can although I'm sure I won't be of that much help. IndyTom and the others on this thread of yours are incredible people and so wise and helpful. A most gracious group of very family oriented people.

All the best to you and please keep us updated!
--Mistress to Mrs Beetle

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wagnerm672

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 27, 2013

So back to the problem at hand. I replaced the door lock actuator and that seems in working order. I then found a guy parting our a 2001 new beetle turbo and bought the driver control module and installed it. So now I think that part he sold me is bad. The drivers side window goes up but I can't lower or raise the passenger. The keyfob still doesn't lock or unlock the drivers side and the power windows don't work. The drivers side door lock switch will lock the drivers side but not the passenger..... What do you think?

red99

· #20 · Jan 27, 2013

wagnerm672 said:
So back to the problem at hand. I replaced the door lock actuator and that seems in working order. I then found a guy parting our a 2001 new beetle turbo and bought the driver control module and installed it. So now I think that part he sold me is bad. The drivers side window goes up but I can't lower or raise the passenger. The keyfob still doesn't lock or unlock the drivers side and the power windows don't work. The drivers side door lock switch will lock the drivers side but not the passenger..... What do you think?

The door modules are supposed to communicate with the central module via CAN-bus. Sounds like the driver's side isn't doing that. That could be part of your original problem as well. The gas filler and rear hatch have direct connections so they wouldn't be affected. Does the mirror adjuster work on either side right now?

If you hook up a VAG-COM scanner it will tell you if any modules are not communicating properly. You can also see all the inputs from the various switches and controls to verify them. The cheapest option that I know is VCDS-Lite:

Ross-Tech: VCDS: Function Table

I'm not sure if the shareware version will do what you need. I know the registered version will. You can use a $10 generic OBDII-USB cable from ebay.

Your problem could be in the wiring. You should double check all the connectors. It could be a frayed wire near the boot where the wires feed from the door into the door frame. Have you had the connectors apart that are under the lower A-pillar panel?

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