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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This DIY is for replacing the Clutch Master Cylinder; which I chose to do after replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder did not fix the problem.

The Slave Cylinder DIY Thread is here ...

TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY covers model years 98 thru 05, excluding the Turbo S. Bleeding the Master/Slave Cylinder(s) can be a pain staking process and there are a few different methods to get it done, the steps noted in this DIY are from the Bentley Manual; however this Audi Link has some other ways that you can bleed the system.

DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together or use a cutting torch to get the bad part out and are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong ... AGREED?

These instructions were developed using the following NB...

1) 2000 1.8T liter, 5 speed

As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author (D2Beetle) when you tell all of your BUG buddies!!

TIME NEEDED: Four hours.

ITEMS NEEDED: A eBahn Bentley DVD or Haynes manual. You will need Brake Fluid.

TOOLS NEEDED: One swivel, Two 12" extensions, one 6" extension, one 3" and a deep well 10mm socket; this is needed to get the three bolts loose that hold the ABS Unit in place. The third one is a PITA! :banghead:

PROJECT COST: (German Auto Parts dot Com):
Master Cylinder $ 57.96
Master Clip $ 2.80 (These are plastic)
Note: Some Master Cylinders come with the clip and some do not; this one did, but I got another one just in case I break one.

Shipping $ 12.50
Total Cost $ 73.26

1 Liter of Brake Fluid $ 13.50 - I purchased the Brake Fluid when I ordered the Slave Cylinder that is why it is not totaled into the parts cost of this project.

SPECIAL TOOLS: T10005 Pliers; for disconnecting the Master Cylinder rod from the clutch pedal. It turns out that I DID NOT use this tool, so depending on your NB's Model Year, you to may not need this tool.

WARNINGS: There are different ABS Modules, each with its own removal procedure. Improper removal will render it inoperative. This DIY shows the removal for ABS Module Mark 20 IE through Revision 09.00. VW Brake Fluid is a type of Mineral Oil, so DO NOT get it on anything rubber as it will start to dissolve it.

CAUTIONS: You will have to bleed the brakes and the Clutch Master/Slave Cylinders.

So let’s begin...
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The Clutch Master Cylinder is a two part process...

Part one is to disconnect the brake fluid line and the Slave Cylinder Line; which is done in the engine bay.

Part two is to remove the master cylinder; which is done in the interior. Although is it not required, I removed the drivers seat so I could take pics; however it is easier to do the work if the seat is not their. If you want to remove the seat, here is the DIY for that.

PART ONE

Perform Steps One through Four in the Clutch Slave Cylinder DIY. You need to remove the engine cover and air intake box/filter.

Step Five: Remove the relay box [CMC DIY 001]. Simply unsnap the clips and slide it out. Pic [CMC DIY 002] shows you the brake line tube and hose that has to be disconnected. There is not room to work so the ABS (if your NB has has that option) module/pump has to be removed.

Step Six: Disconnect the brake fluid sensor and move the wires out of the way [CMC DIY 003].

Step Seven: Remove the ABS Module/Pump. Pic [CMC DIY 004] shows you what has to be disconnected to get the module/pump out. Take note of item 004-3; this bolt (hidden behind the wire harness tray) is a :rant2: PITA :banghead: to get out. The removal of the bolt [CMC DIY 005] is done by feel only. You will need a 3/8 or 1/4 drive ratchet, 10mm deep well socket, swivel and six inch extension.

Technical Note: the ABS mounting bolts do not come out of the mounting bracket; as you loosen the bolts the ABS module/pump will drop down.

WARNING: Do not separate the ABS module from the base or YOU WILL be buying another one!

Disconnect the brake fluid lines, one at a time; pic [CMC DIY 004] yellow square. Be sure and mark the in/out tubes from the brake reservoir so you will re-connect them correctly; I forgot, but I can refer to my pics to do it. I used vacuum hose caps [CMC DY 006] and tie-tie straps to protect the tube ends and prevent the brake fluid from draining out of the tube. I also put a basting pan under the car in case any brake fluid was spilled.

Once you get all of the brake line tubes disconnected, it should look like pic [CMC DIY 007].

Disconnect the wire harness from ABS Module [CMC DIY 008]. Pull the slide lock out; grab both front corners and pull gently and then pry up.

CAUTION: Do not get any brake fluid on the ABS Module connector pins.

Remove the three ABS mounting bolts starting with #3 [CMC DIY 009]. Pic [CMC DIY 011] shows you where the three ABS mounting bolts are.

Set the ABS module/pump aside on a flat surface; it will leak brake fluid so you will need to plug the brake line hose connections. Be sure not to get any dirt/grime in the brake line connections.

Step Eight: Disconnect the Brake Reservoir hose and the Slave Cylinder Tube [CMC DIY 012 & 013]. Disconnecting the Slave Cylinder tube is easy; using a small flat head jewelers screwdriver. Slide it up behind the clip and pull outward [CMC DIY 012] and the clip will slide out.

CAUTION: The Brake reservoir hose is not very flexible and you do not want to brake or crack the plastic hose connector on the reservoir; I could not get mine off so I cut it off.


This ends PART ONE ...
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
- Part Two -

Technical Note: I removed the drivers seat to give me room to work and take pics; although it is not required you might want to consider it. If you choose to remove the drivers seat, here is the DIY for that.

Step Nine: Remove the dash protective cover [CMC DIY 020]. Remove the three torq screws and pull the cover down.

Technical Note: For those that have the speed sensitive spoiler, you will have a switch to disconnect (Green Square) [CMC DIY 021]; so do not pull down on the cover until you have disconnected it.

Step Ten: Remove the Steering column foot cover [CMC DIY 022]. The screws here are plastic; so take care removing them. Picture [CMC DIY 023] Shows you the Clutch Master Cylinder; purple rectangle.

Step Eleven: Remove the Clutch (#3) and Brake Switches (#4) [CMC DIY 024]. Disconnect the wire harness from both switches (#1 & #2); squeeze the connectors and gently pull. To remove the switch, twist the switch a 1/4 or 1/2 (model year specific - mine were a 1/4 turn) turn to the left and gently pull.

Step Twelve: Remove the retaining bracket [CMC DIY 025] bolts and another clutch switch (#3). It is not necessary to disconnect the wire harness from this switch; the wire is long enough to get it out of the way.

Step Thirteen: (Appropriate Step Number) There are three bolts that hold the Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly in place and the first bolt [CMC DIY 026] is a :banghead: PITA :banghead: to get to. There are two ways to do it; from the right side inside the bracket [CMC DIY 027] or over the top of the bracket [CMC DIY 028]. I used the inside to get it out and the top side to get it back on. The remaining two bolts [CMC DIY 029] are a piece of cake and lastly there is a plastic stop (#3) to remove; turn it to the left 1/4 turn and pull. I had removed mine before taking the picture, so it is not there.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Picture [CMC DIY 030] shows you what it looks like with the Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly removed. Picture [CMC DIY 031] shows you the Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly.

Step Fourteen: Remove the Clutch Master Cylinder [CMC DIY 032]. There is a plastic clip (white) that attaches the push rod to the foot pedal (#1); push the clip ends in while pulling down on the push rod. It is not necessary to get the rod to go all the way down; only enough to get the push rod clip disconnected. Once the clip is disconnected, pull the cylinder end out away from the spring, to release the spring clip (#2).

That is it you are done!!! :D

Assembly is reverse of removal.

The Master/Slve Cylinder Bleed procedure can be found in this DIY Thread Post.

Technical Note: Bleeding the Master/Slave Cylinder(s) can be a pain staking process and there are a few different methods to get it done, the steps noted in this DIY are from the Bentley Manual; however this Audi Link has some other ways that you can bleed the system.

Do not connect any brake fluid lines to the clutch master cylinder until you are done with all interior work or you will spray brake fluid every where.

Re-Assembly Technical Note: Picture [CMC DIY 034] shows you the Clutch Pedal Switch (Step Eleven); when you put the master cylinder assembly back in you might need to adjust the switch; to adjust the switch you gently pull out or push in and it will make a ratchet sound. What I did was pull it out one click at a time; install it, then release the clutch pedal and if I did not hear a click from the clutch pedal pushing the switch back in, I would repeat the process until I did hear the "click".

Re-Assembly Warning: Do not do the above procedure to the Brake Pedal Switch or you will spray brake fluid every where.
 

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Nice DYI, Man I swear these cars are Germanys revenge. Who would design a slave cylinder location where you have to disassemby most of the car to change the stupid thing.
 

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I replace mine without doing the DIY step 004. I'm sure it cut out a bit of frustration but you DO need to be careful as you will be able to see back there and you will be able to put a hand or two back there... but not both. Step DIY27 the top nut is a PITA to get off like mentioned. I didn't put mine back on and it works fine.
The only other thing I've noticed is my clutch sensor for the cruise control doesn't reach the clutch pedal anymore. I'm going to have to find a way to fix this.
 

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I replace mine without doing the DIY step 004. I'm sure it cut out a bit of frustration but you DO need to be careful as you will be able to see back there and you will be able to put a hand or two back there... but not both. Step DIY27 the top nut is a PITA to get off like mentioned. I didn't put mine back on and it works fine.
The only other thing I've noticed is my clutch sensor for the cruise control doesn't reach the clutch pedal anymore. I'm going to have to find a way to fix this.
I too was able to work around the ABS pump to disconnect/connect the supply lines- removing it once was a pain, and I didn't want another repeat performance. Even so, you do need patience to work your hands around the pump. I had a small straight pick tool to unclip the supply line clip. The supply line pops out and back in relatively easy.

Thanks again Frank for such an awesome DIY. Your work has made my work easier :bigthumb:
 

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So this is an amazing DYI for the regular guy, however, i have a question, how would you know its the cylinders and not in fact the clutch, throwout bearing, or pressure plate that needs replacing, is there a sure way to know without pulling everything apart?
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #12
So this is an amazing DYI for the regular guy, however, i have a question, how would you know its the cylinders and not in fact the clutch, throwout bearing, or pressure plate that needs replacing, is there a sure way to know without pulling everything apart?
I am sure there are some specific symptoms to identify a faulty Master Cylinder; however in my case the symptoms were so generic I just did not want to believe it was the clutch itself. Trying to avoid the inevitable.
 
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