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Hi I was on the interstate and lost power misfire 2 & 3 cyc so I pulled the plugs and this is what they looked like I bought new plugs and now its just cyc 2 any ideas?
misfiring
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YIKES!! What kind of set up are you running? It looks like they just blew away the electrode. Forget a simple misfire, that is caused by some major detonation. When is the last time your timing belt and water pump were replaced? Since in your signature you are showing "Supercharged 2.0" I assume you are running a custom tune with that "Supercharger"?? Seems that tune isn't doing so well. Something is definitely out of whack. A few more of those explosions in your cylinders and your engine can turn into a doorstop pretty quick.
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Just did the timing belt in July and idk what or why but still missing in cyc 2 I'm lost
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WOW! What set up are you running? Just need a little info, to help with the diagnosis. Like products, programs, PSI output, ect.. My first hunch is you're running to low of octane fuel. Also, what fuel regulator are you using? Need to run a 4 bar, preferably on a S/C.
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No codes except misfire I'm running 36 lb injectors 4 bar regulator 3" maf united tune and I run 93 only nothing less
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Could be something wrong with your tune. Definitely running way lean and detonating at the rate of self destruction.
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How could the tune go bad? I have an lc1 innovate wide band and it reads like 14 when idling and goes to like 12.4 when I'm getting on it
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Well, something isn't working in your set up that causes your major detonation. If it's
not your tune then you have some other timing or fueling issue.
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How can I check to see if something is wrong with the fuel injector/s
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I am sure you can find that here by search above or google it. I would love to know how too
Ouch!
All I can say is you have some very severe conditions occurring regardless of what your wideband O2 sensor is telling you.
As for injector testing WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services is one company that does clean and flow test injectors.
I would say you really need to perform a compression & cylinder leakage test to rule out any major mechanical damage before you chase your tail too much on other components.
So most tunes under higher engine load and throttle angle revert to an open loop situaiton and use fixed fuel and timing maps. I do not know the 2.0L very well, but on most cars the only thing any tune can alter is fuel and timing, if the car has variable valve control, then this would be altered as well.
I would say your combustion temp pressures and temps are getting very high and you may also be having issues properly cooling the cylinder head as well? You likely need to be running cooler spark plugs rather than a stock OE type plug.
Also I would expect you should be changing your fuel filter every 25k and should also have either replaced and/or upgraded your fuel pump to assist with the higher demand for fuel delivery?
A wideband O2 monitor is a nice to have item, but it cannot tell you everything about your engine and other systems. Also you may be going slightly too lean on the high end for your setup? Most tuners error on the side of richer so when other things start to go bad you have a wider margin for error and do not run into self destruction.
You may need to somehow log data to see how your ignition timing is behaving as well.
All I can say is you have some very severe conditions occurring regardless of what your wideband O2 sensor is telling you.
As for injector testing WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services is one company that does clean and flow test injectors.
I would say you really need to perform a compression & cylinder leakage test to rule out any major mechanical damage before you chase your tail too much on other components.
So most tunes under higher engine load and throttle angle revert to an open loop situaiton and use fixed fuel and timing maps. I do not know the 2.0L very well, but on most cars the only thing any tune can alter is fuel and timing, if the car has variable valve control, then this would be altered as well.
I would say your combustion temp pressures and temps are getting very high and you may also be having issues properly cooling the cylinder head as well? You likely need to be running cooler spark plugs rather than a stock OE type plug.
Also I would expect you should be changing your fuel filter every 25k and should also have either replaced and/or upgraded your fuel pump to assist with the higher demand for fuel delivery?
A wideband O2 monitor is a nice to have item, but it cannot tell you everything about your engine and other systems. Also you may be going slightly too lean on the high end for your setup? Most tuners error on the side of richer so when other things start to go bad you have a wider margin for error and do not run into self destruction.
You may need to somehow log data to see how your ignition timing is behaving as well.
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Well compression test results are as follows.
Cyc1 180
Cyc2 30
Cyc3 160
Cyc4 180
Next step is check to see of the timing belt jumped I just put it on in July. Would this do this if the timing was off?
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Cyc1 180
Cyc2 30
Cyc3 160
Cyc4 180
Next step is check to see of the timing belt jumped I just put it on in July. Would this do this if the timing was off?
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2,101 Posts
Ouch. I'm sorry to hear that buddy. Your timing is probably okay,....
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I am guessing either burned/split exhaust valve or hole in the piston?
Cylinder leakage test will tell you more about pistons or valves.
I am guessing you went very lean due to fuel starvation or O2/MAF issues. If you put it back together, suggest you look to run much colder plugs as well.
If the pistons are fine, I would strongly recommend replacing all the exhaust valves due the heat they deal with as they can split/burn at higher mileage and it would be worth sorting out now if you have to pull the head.
Cylinder leakage test will tell you more about pistons or valves.
I am guessing you went very lean due to fuel starvation or O2/MAF issues. If you put it back together, suggest you look to run much colder plugs as well.
If the pistons are fine, I would strongly recommend replacing all the exhaust valves due the heat they deal with as they can split/burn at higher mileage and it would be worth sorting out now if you have to pull the head.
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Thanks really appreciate the help but for now cause I don't have another car to drive I'm going to pull the plug for injector 2 and the spark plug boot and run on 3 cylinders as I don't have much choice. I work 30 mins away.
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Again, cylinder leakage test and/or something like this may help determine what the piston and cylinder wall look like.
Wall & Pipe Inspection Camera with 2.4" Color LCD Monitor - Amazon.com
If you have a cylinder head issue, you can probably get a refurbished head on ebay and swap it over a busy weekend? If you can determine you have a piston or cylinder wall issue, it obviously makes the job a bit more difficult, BUT, at least you can should have full access to pull the oil pan if you need to pull just 1 piston, but this make a weekend repair much more involved and also assumes your cylinder walls are in decent shape.
Wall & Pipe Inspection Camera with 2.4" Color LCD Monitor - Amazon.com
If you have a cylinder head issue, you can probably get a refurbished head on ebay and swap it over a busy weekend? If you can determine you have a piston or cylinder wall issue, it obviously makes the job a bit more difficult, BUT, at least you can should have full access to pull the oil pan if you need to pull just 1 piston, but this make a weekend repair much more involved and also assumes your cylinder walls are in decent shape.
You could have the "upside down" piston ring problem. Apparently some 2000 and 2001 2.0's were built with the rings installed upside down on cylinder 2. Usually it leads to increased oil consumption. VW had a silent recall to rebuild engines when they had the ring problem and used more that 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles.
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