I have mine set to Number 5 on the Timing setting and agressive Boost at the Boost setting. I may try Number 6 Timing setting since that is the highest they recommend for 93 Octane. I pulled my plugs and they look perfect. I love the performance difference that the tune made. I was going to go with the APR tune myself since I have an APR shop right here in my city but they couldn't direct tune my 2000 1.8 beetle. They only have a chip that needs to be soldered to the ECU and I preferred to have it direct tuned.Tom, what settings do you recommend on your REVO for 93 octane?
Depends on your ECU/engine code. Usually, the additional programs cost extra. Quite a bit extra with APR. But they do have sales a few times a year and they give you a multitune for the regular price of a stage 1 tune or give you 100 dollars off the stage 1 tune. That said, depending on your ECU/engine code and model year you may not be able to use the Multitune by APR. You can always ask regarding your model years limitations. But to be honest once you have the Stage 1 set you probably will very seldomly change it. The only time I switch mine is if I take it to get it serviced and I put it in minimum valet mode so those idiots can't Hot Rod my ride.you guys know anything about the apr tunes? if i get stage one can i switch through programs like you guys are talking about or is that extra money?
1999-2000 Beetle: APHhow can i find my engine code lol. i guess you can say i am bug illiterate
I have to double check my SPS 3 switch but I set my Boost at maximum or Agressive Boost per the SPS 3 switch and the Timing at 5 or one below the maximum recommended for the 93 Octane gasoline. I didn't really mess with air/fuel mixture since I don't think our cars can be adjusted for it.Thanks for your response, Tom. In summary, what numbers do you recommed for a) Boost, b) Timing, and c) Fuel (based on 93 octane fuel use and REVO Stage 1 tuning).
If you are chipped you should run the highest Octane available in your state. Not sure what that is in New Hampshire where you are at. Just look the next time you go to your gas station and look at the pumps. The Premium gas should have a rating of 91/92 or 93 Octane. Some states like Michigan change to an Oxynated gas over the Winter months which is only 91 Octane but do have 93 in the summer. Once chipped you should run a minimum of 91 Octane. If your tune is for 93 Octane than you should run 93 Octane gas. The knock sensor will usually retard your timing if it starts to ping, however I would not risk running lower octane gas in your engine especially when it has been tuned.now whats the difference if i run the stage 1 apr on minimum ovtane and the next step up or whatever its supposed to be run on lol (sorry, i dont know the octane numbers at the gas station, havent had my license for a lil while X]
unless you can afford $4500 for a new engine I would replace the timing belt ASAP. ALL VW are very bad about timing belts. replace it now because if it breaks you will have all you can handle just getting it running again. I find it hard to believe that no one has suggested this already.hey everyone, i want to start modding my baby but i have no clue where to start. would love to toss around some ideas and pick everybody's minds. thanks for the help, Gino
The belt at 70k is like a ticking time bomb IMHO. They will even look new when they break. Not trying to scare you but the 1.8t is expensive to fix when the belt breaks. I would worry more about youre overheating issue on the other thread you posted. It is not normal for the hood to get that hot. Unless you really drive it hard or have jacked with the turbo to get more boost it should not get that hot.i checked the timing belt 20,000 miles ago and it was a brand new belt. my car has about mid 170k on it. think the belt was changed at around 100k though
Great price!The timing belt is a good idea. My car had it done at 79k miles and it's due once again. Most of the time it isn't really the timing belt failing but one or more of the associated parts like the tensioner freezing up and putting stress on the timing belt and therefore destroying it. Or the waterpump failing and again putting stress on the timing belt and eventually killing it. So paying 450 bucks now rather than 4000+ later is probably a very good suggestion. I was thinking of doing the timing belt myself but it's a lot of work and a big mess and with my luck I will break more than I am fixing. So I will let the guys at EPWerks handle the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, cams seals, thermostat, Accessory belt, etc. For the New Beetle it is far less than it was for my Audi TT. They only charge a total of $450 bucks including parts and labor. You can't beat that.