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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've got 2 nagging problems. First, the Monsoon stereo on my 03 Beetle TDI refuses to do anything with respect to controlling volume. Turn the volume knob..nothing happens and it's stuck at 3/4 volume.

The other thing is that the compressor clutch for the ac refuses to turn on. And yes, I checked that fuse, reseated it, continuity checked it etc. Did the fan on low check to be sure the radiator fans were coming on.

I also found out that you can't simply JUMPER the compressor clutch thru the wire harness plugs.

However, I'm on a semi vacation here in florida (I used my TDI to tow an 18 foot, 3000 pound boat up from Palmetto FL to Pensacola FL..she got 25mpg until we hit the rolling hills starting about an hour away from Pensacola on I-10. And she has 189k on her to boot!

But the lack of ac and being able to control radio volume is a huge irritant.

If anyone knows a trick to making the monsoon head unit behave (and no, Wyle E. Coyote style hammering on it isn't in the cards either, OR jumpering the compressor clutch to see if it works or I have to do something else, please let me know. I DID do all the troubleshooting as far as power getting down to the harness, however, as I mentioned earlier.

Also, what is the deal with the door panel vinyl inserts falling off the door panel.and the ease in which the glove box and interior door pulls (not the latch handles) break? I saw good door panels (matched set) going for 500 and up a pair on ebay last week.

I'm primarily a Mitsubishi guy. I race a pair of 1991 Galant VR4's, a 91 Talon TSI awd, and an 88 supercharged MR2, backed up by my venerable 85 vette.

I bought the TDI several years ago, but kept it here in florida so I could fly in, and have a car to drive vs renting one while I was househunting (which I'm still doing 7 years later).

I've been fairly impressed with the car..solid as a bank vault..no rattles or weird noises, but she's a bit rough when you first start her up. I was VERY impressed that the little TDI motor could haul that boat, however. I just wish they didn't put that half acre dashboard up there. It reminds me of the old AMC PACER..in a fishbowl..looking out.

One thing I am curious about, however. CAN you put a remote oil filter on this thing somewhere? I always took it to jiffy lube and never really even touched the oil filter.

However, after walking into wally world here in Pensacola and using their electronic filter look up book, I found that there isn't one listed. So I'm guessing it is either an OEM part, or it's a screen like the OBERG filters in the old beetles.

Thanks for the time and if I can get EITHER of these nagging problems taken care of I'll be a very happy guy!

After having driven this car for a while, I'm tempted to find a TDI engine with the harness and ecu etc and stick it in my 88 MR2, which only has a 1.6L supercharged engine in it The 4AGZE engine in the MR2 has loads of low end grunt, but needs a turbo for top end..and mine WAS taken to HKS Japan (I bought it new in Tokyo and it went in for the HKS stroker kit (to 1.8L and a turbo system that resembles the new VW "twincharger" setup. But I sold the MR2 to buy my first 1990 eclipse gsx..and got the car back in 2003 when the guy I sold it to wanted something newer. But all the HKS parts were long gone. But I think the combination of that fairly slippery MR2 body, with a mid engine arrangement would be pretty fun as a diesel.

Dave Beem
Beemer's Racing
Tabor IA, 51653
 

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5/23/10 <3
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One thing I am curious about, however. CAN you put a remote oil filter on this thing somewhere? I always took it to jiffy lube and never really even touched the oil filter.

However, after walking into wally world here in Pensacola and using their electronic filter look up book, I found that there isn't one listed. So I'm guessing it is either an OEM part, or it's a screen like the OBERG filters in the old beetles.
Can't really help with the AC or Monsoon problem but this is an easy one.


This picture I found online but number 9 is where the oil filter goes. Its just a filter element that goes in the housing covered by that black cap. Makes changing the oil very very easy to do yourself. Less mess removing the filter, and many people get a pump to get the oil out through the top rather than having to go under the car and make a huge mess. Be aware that you need to be running the proper VW spec oil in this car. Hopefully Jiffy Lube is using it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
oil type and dipstick tube

Well, I've been specifying 15w40, which is heavy duty oil when I go there (jiffy lube)and when I have to drain oil at home, I run Rotella T or DELO diesel oil (the same stuff I use in my 2 diesel trucks (97 GMC K3500 4 door longbed dually 4x4 6.5L turbodiesel, 84 K2500 (4x4) GMC Suburban 6.2L NA diesel) and that oil is certified for OTR semi truck engines (and that oil is specifically FOR diesels, and it has special additives to deal with something that gas burners never experience now...soot buildup in the oil, or oil thickening.

What is puzzling to me is that Fram, AC/Delco, Autolite (formerly Ford), and even O'Reilly house brand doesn't make an oil filter element for it.

Oh, and my damned dipstick pulls out of the block every time I check the oil..which is irritating as hell, since I know it's leaking oil where it goes into the block.

What I'm wondering, is IF there's a kit out there to basically do a sandwich between the oil filter currently on the car (stock) that allows you to use a remote filter as well. I used to have a BIG filter that, honest to god, used a roll of toilet paper as an element (the butt bark kind of paper, not the uber soft stuff, which disintegrates). THAT filter, however, proved to be TOO GOOD. Because it even filtered out the additives in the oil.

So for right now, since I'm down in Pensacola FL and not at home, is to find an oil filter cartridge/element so I CAN change the oil. What I don't remember is if this is a steel mesh filter like the OBERG filter screen I used in my old 73 Super Beetle (that had mechanical fuel injection)

Any ideas on finding one? That filter element has been in the car for a good 20,000 miles (Even though I have taken the element out and cleaned it as best I could by letting it soak in kerosene)

So if you know who carries an element, let me know. And also, if you know of a way to keep the damned dipstick in the hole that would be nice too.

That diagram was useful though..thanks for that. This is the problem with having cars stashed all over the country..out of sight, out of mind..and since my glove box only stays closed with a long screw thru the glove box lid into the dash itself, I can't really keep anything IN the glove box, because I don't want to auger out the screw hole by using it too much.

If you happen to know anyone who is parting out a new beetle and it has the grey glove box, please shoot it to me.
The one thing that has NOT broken is the power moonroof. Still seals and works like new, though in a very heavy rain it can leak a bit into the headliner (great idea, using that crappy foam backing. Odd how the old bugs rarely ate THEIR old wire hoop and fabric headliners compared to the new stuff.

Dave Beem
 

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5/23/10 <3
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You need to be running 5w40 synthetic on this car. Rotella T6 is good stuff to use, or Mobil 1 TDT. 15w40 is going to be conventional, which is not what this engine should be running. You need to get that switched over. We use the T6 in both of our diesels ('01 TDI and '84 Turbo Diesel).

The filter should be available at any auto parts store. Its showing up for me at Autozone online. And that was just a quick check. Its a paper filter element and should be replaced each change.

You also need to do the fuel filter every 20k. Not sure if that's been done or not. But it will help keep the TDI running in tip top shape.

Also, not sure how many miles you have on the car but I hope the timing belt has been replaced!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Synthetic?

So this engine actually calls for synthetic? I know the new Vette's do, but I wasn't aware of the TDI having a mandatory type of oil. I run Rotella T in everything from my K3500 down to my little 2800 watt diesel generator.

So Rotella synthetic would be ok then? I have some mobil 1 at home, (1500 miles away..lol)

One thing, however. Rotella T is not really a conventional oil, as it is specifically made for turbodiesel engines (hence the "T" in the name. It DOES meet all requirements for SF up to whatever the gas engine designator is today. But I won't run that in my race eclipse either.

I normally run 20w50 in it unless its wintertime. Reason being I usually have the bug loaded down to the max, since I use that as my cross country car.

I've got 189k on her right now, and a lot of that involved towing a trailer of some sort since there's about zero luggage space if you want to be able to recline the seats to take a nap at a rest stop. Towing that 18' boat was a "do or die" situation where I had to move it. I imagine that with this kind of mileage, it was changed at least once. I have timing belts due on both my Galant VR4 race cars..and those are VERY interference fit engines. Off one tooth on EITHER camshaft results in valves hitting pistons.

I did want to find out if the TDI diesel is an interference fit though. I thought the OLD vw diesels (like the venerable 1.5L that started it all in the early rabbit days) were able to spin over without banging valves. Not the case with the TDI motors then?

I'm surprised at that, since most SOHC 8 valve engines do not wind up grenading when a t-belt snaps. I know I snapped one in my 85 Celica supra turbo, and it just coasted to a stop..slapped a new belt on (which took me six hours in the rain on the side of the road) and I was on my way again.

Either way, I'm not the original owner, and I've sold it and then bought it back when whoever I sold it to was trying to trade it in and got offered an insulting 500 bucks for it.

Right now I'm trying to track down a diesel fuel smell I'm getting when standing next to the car while it's idling.

It's definitely fuel (I can smell antifreeze a mile away) and its not exhaust..but I can't find a leak anywhere, at least not yet. I'm guessing there's a pinhole leak somewhere?

So let me know if these are an interference fit engine. It WOULD suck to have to rebuild this thing too. (EVERY one of my Galants and eclipses have eaten a belt and killed a cylinder head..but it wasn't the belt's fault..they were nearly new. One, a harmonic balancer bolt head snapped off (I'd rebuilt the motor and I hadn't TOUCHED the bolt, since I did an in car re-ring and bearing job. Crank timing belt pulley shot out just as I touched the ignition switch (the bolt head had flown out and I thought I'd left the socket on the bolt head when I was turning it over by hand (this was a new engine from a previous new timing belt snapping at 7900 RPM in 4th gear on a road race course. THEN, after killing a second head, I went for #3. This time the little protrusion on the oil pump timing belt pulley (a step, I think it's called) shattered, and the pulley itself started wobbling horribly since it was now out of alignment with the rest of the pulleys on the timing belt circuit.

There is a raised lip on that gear that keeps the belt from flying off the sprocket. THAT lip shredded the timing belt when it started wobbling. I had just noticed that the oil pressure was bouncing around like mad, and I'd JUST hit the interstate off ramp leading to my house when Pushed in the clutch to coast up the off ramp and then stop to see what the hell was wrong THIS time. The belt snapped right when I pushed the clutch in. It was a pinky finger width at that point.. So, engine #4. Everything fires up perfectly. Ran great for about 200 miles. I'd sold it to my best friend (NEVER EVER sell a car to a friend. Even if every single part in the car is brand new, it will self destruct instantly.)

I was running up to the sheriff's office to do a vin check (transferring title from Iowa to Nebraska has a mandatory vin check with the Nebraska highway patrol or the sheriff)

My best friend was following me in his anemic 240SX he bought new in 89. So of course I nailed it on the off ramp (cloverleaf) and promptly blew the oil control ring on the hot side of the turbocharger. Instant mosquito fogger!

So I limp it home (30 miles ate 3.5 quarts out of 5.5), and off comes the turbo. My best friend buys a big 16G from Forced Performance, we install it and again the engine fires right up and purrs like a kitten. 45 seconds later, the ECU ****s itself, fires all 4 plugs at once and dies. The resulting massive backfire blew 2 roller rockers right out from under the intake camshaft and four exhaust valves got bent. So you can guess that I can R&R a 4G63T head in record time.

I do NOT want to have this chain of events repeated. So when is the tbelt due on these? I figured 60k since that's what mitsu says for theirs (and they should have said 40k...)

Thanks for the info.. I REALLY need to change that oil tomorrow before I start my trip up to New Bern, NC (If I'd known we were doing a "BUG IN" as they were called when I was a kid, I'd have been able to delay leaving Pensacola for a few days until everyone showed up and we built us a convoy)

Thanks again

Dave
 

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Yes, it calls for synthetic. All conventional turbo engines do to my knowledge. So get the Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT and you'll be good to go.

And yes, the TDI is very much an interference engine. It relies on high compression to run, so the tolerances are extremely tight. The timing belt is a very important job to have done, and have done correctly. All components must be changed out and done properly (rollers, motor mount bolts, tensioner, etc.). In general, the common interval followed is every 60-80k or every 5 years, whichever comes first. They do make 100k kits, but I wouldn't push it that far, especially since it would take me 10+ years to get to that point.

Head over to TDIClub and do some reading. It seems you have something to learn about modern diesels. They have a great FAQ section over there that will tell you all you need to know about them and their maintenance. I'd also suggest looking at the suggested TDI mechanics list for a "guru" (as they tend to be called) near you. They know these engines inside and out and can do the work on them very well. Worth taking the car to one of those guys and get them to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Timing Belt change

I'll do that. Both the oil change and checking out that website. I'm one of the "gurus" on GalantVR4.Org and DSM.Org as well for the 4G63 Mitsubishi engines. (since I've broken every unbreakable part..lol, but I also race hard, and thru trial and error you find the stuff that works and the stuff that's all hype and still leaves you stranded.)

My 2 diesel trucks are both IDI, but they both run 21:1 compression. I also have a 6.2 diesel in one of my boats and might be putting one in my 85 vette. But now I want to see if I can stab a TDI motor into my 88 MR2..considering the size of that engine, it certainly would fit.just making the bellhousing adapter and doing the rewiring, I'd think. First, however, I have to find a complete TDI motor. Guess I should head over to the police auction more often now eh?

Thanks for all the info, and you're right. I've been around old IDI engines and even more ancient marine diesels for quite a long time. (If you want to see a REAL primitive diesel, check out a Universal Atomic 4 cyl diesel..a far cry from a TDI to be sure.just shows you how far we've progressed in the past 30 years (Moyer Marine has a lot of info on them too)

thanks!

Dave

PS, Mitsu 4G63 engines also get the complete refresh when you do a T-belt, including a water pump. If you're in there, might as well do it. I see too many people who cheap out and don't get the water pump done, only to see it shell out 5k miles later. I ALWAYS replace EVERYTHING I can when I change a belt, even if it is the result of FOD damage (there's one oil pan bolt shorter than all the rest of them on the mitsu motors, and if you put it back in the wrong place, you'll grind a ditch in the Tbelt almost instantly. I've seen tensioners go on STARTUP when idiot owners didn't replace them..and if course they blame the mechanic (usually me) and I simply say "See, this is YOUR signature stating you FORGO ANY WARRANTY CLAIM resulting from this repair because you REFUSED to replace everything recommended by not on the mfr, but your mechanic too!"

And I won't trust ANY belt for more than 40-50k miles,.they make a kevlar belt for my mitsus as well and kevlar breaks just like fiberglass does. However, if I'm on the road when that time comes, I at least can get home before changing it.

Too bad god makes more idiots every single day,.lol

Dave
 
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