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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday my SRS/Airbag light came on. I figured it was the wires in the drivers seat because the car wasn't able to sense when I wasn't buckled in. Then I realized the button to open the boot wasn't working. This morning, the ABS light and the ASR light came on. I checked the brakes to make sure ABS was still working, and it was, but when I braked the EPC light came on. I don't believe these problems are actually problems with the individual systems and more an electrical problem but I don't know how to check. (And I don't.know what that problem might be)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You’ll need to scan your car with vcds. CDs is capable of accessing all the control modules on your car.

For a vw there is no better system.

thank you. Are there any handheld scanners that will work with a 2001 model and be able to assess/clear multiple systems? I don't have a laptop to use with VCDS unfortunately and I can't afford to purchase their entire hardware system :(
 

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Obdeleven I’ve heard will work it’s less money, however you get what you pay for, I’ve never used it but I’ve read about some who have. It will probably point you in the right direction but not as close as vcds.

Sams club has cheap laptops at less than $250, just sayin.
 

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Hi Thejarhead, I got ahold of a more basic scanner and I have a more expensive one on the way. I came up with a lot of codes and I'm trying to figure out how to narrow down the issues from here. The car starts and runs fine so there's no immobilizer issue like one of the codes states. I'm confused how I can get a code for both seat belt tensioner igniters being both too great and too small. Super frustrating and not sure if I'm safe to drive ...

01314 - 045 Engine control module sporadic 013 check DTC memory

00287 - 108 ABS wheel speed sensor rear right sporadic

16524 - 035 oxygen (lamda) sensor

16725 - 163 camshaft position sensor

17978 - 163 Engine start blocked by immobilizer

16955 - 035 brake switch F implausible signal

00532 - 135 Supply voltage B+ sporadic - signal too low (found this in the SRS/seatbelt system)

00654 - 160 seat belt tensioner igniter driver side - resistance too great

00654 - 161 seat belt tensioner igniter driver side- resistance too small

00655 - 160 seat belt tensioner igniter passenger side - resistance too great

00655 - 161 seat belt tensioner igniter passenger side - resistance too small


Thanks for your time!!
 

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Did your battery run low? The seat belt code looks like a low voltage code, which happens when the battery runs low while the ignition is on. You should be able to just clear it.


Since you’ve recorded the codes clear them and see what comes back.

Whatever code reader you’re using is speaking VW and communicating with the various modules so that’s good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not sure if the battery ran low - how can I tell?

I cleared the codes and started the car again and was left with the light on still and these codes remaining:

00654 - 032 seat belt tensioner igniter: driver side (N153) static - value of resistance too great

00655 - 160 seat belt tensioner igniter: passenger side (N154) sporadic - value of resistance too great

0655 - 161 seat belt tensioner igniter: passenger side (N154) sporadic - value of resistance too small

I'm at a loss here. 🤯
 

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I had something like this happen several years ago, if you remove the plastic trim on the door pillar down next to the bottom where the seat belt attaches you will find a connector that goes to the seat belt retractor. Unplug that connector and spray it with electrical cleaner, then plug and unplug it a couple of times.

Make absolutely sure you disconnect the battery before you begin playing with the srs system. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this then you should probably take it to a dealer or other car professional.
 

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Those other codes may return after you drive your vehicle. Hopefully not. Just a question did you clear the srs module itself? Just clearing the engine codes will not clear the srs codes, you will need to specifically go into that module.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you I'll try that!! Yes I cleared the SRS module, I was hoping that they were intermittent but they came back immediately. I'm wondering if the camshaft sensor one is telling me I need a new timing belt. Will see tomorrow if the engine codes come back.
 

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Yesterday my SRS/Airbag light came on. I figured it was the wires in the drivers seat because the car wasn't able to sense when I wasn't buckled in. Then I realized the button to open the boot wasn't working. This morning, the ABS light and the ASR light came on. I checked the brakes to make sure ABS was still working, and it was, but when I braked the EPC light came on. I don't believe these problems are actually problems with the individual systems and more an electrical problem but I don't know how to check. (And I don't.know what that problem might be)
I had a similar situation on my 2015 1.8t automatic. I had almost all the lights on in the dash. After some research. I found several places that said that it was possible that a abs speed sensor was out. Shortly after that I had to go to the dealership. When they had it. They did a scan on it and told me that that was the error. But they wouldn't tell me which one. I had to pay for that information. I wasn't going to pay $145 to get the answer. So after more research. I found a simple way to check to see which one it was by using an ohm meter. I didn't have to pull the tires off. You just carefully pull out each sensor and disconnect it and check the ohm's. I believe that it's between like 600-1000. The one that's bad will either read low or in my case nothing. The sensor was cheaper online than the parts store. After I replaced it, all my lights went away. While I had lights on. The car ran fine, no issue with it. Just those lights. As I've been told by several people on here that know. They suggested that I get a scanner that's for VW. Basically for European cars that check all the systems in the car. The ones at the parts store only check engine codes and they don't do a very good job with Volkswagen's at all. Mainly American cars. I hope that this was helpful.
 

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I had a similar situation on my 2015 1.8t automatic. I had almost all the lights on in the dash. After some research. I found several places that said that it was possible that a abs speed sensor was out. Shortly after that I had to go to the dealership. When they had it. They did a scan on it and told me that that was the error. But they wouldn't tell me which one. I had to pay for that information. I wasn't going to pay $145 to get the answer. So after more research. I found a simple way to check to see which one it was by using an ohm meter. I didn't have to pull the tires off. You just carefully pull out each sensor and disconnect it and check the ohm's. I believe that it's between like 600-1000. The one that's bad will either read low or in my case nothing. The sensor was cheaper online than the parts store. After I replaced it, all my lights went away. While I had lights on. The car ran fine, no issue with it. Just those lights. As I've been told by several people on here that know. They suggested that I get a scanner that's for VW. Basically for European cars that check all the systems in the car. The ones at the parts store only check engine codes and they don't do a very good job with Volkswagen's at all. Mainly American cars. I hope that this was helpful.
O. After reading everyone else. I'm sure this isn't your problem. You would of had a code for it. Sorry. That's what I get for not reading everything. These guys know way way more than I do as I'm fairly new with the new beetles. I have owned old one's and mainly American cars. But I love Bugs and I had to get one. These guys are full of knowledge and have a great help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
O. After reading everyone else. I'm sure this isn't your problem. You would of had a code for it. Sorry. That's what I get for not reading everything. These guys know way way more than I do as I'm fairly new with the new beetles. I have owned old one's and mainly American cars. But I love Bugs and I had to get one. These guys are full of knowledge and have a great help.
Actually you are right I did have the code for "ABS wheel speed sensor rear right sporadic". Did you change the ABS sensor yourself? I have never done anything like that and I'm wondering how it's done.

Unfortunately for my airbag light what I've found is that my sneaking suspicion of damage from rodents was correct and I'm sure they've done some of this damage. They have urinated inside the seatbelt panel area so I'm having to replace them entirely, just waiting on the parts.

I'm not sure what's going on with the engine and EPC still. The engine light turned off by itself after originally coming back on after I cleared the codes. It's possible I'm having the issue you had concerning these lights but I'm not sure, I'm going to attempt to see what codes I've got just now.
 

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Replacing the abs speed sensor is not hard at all. It shouldn't take you long to do it at all. I'm disabled. Bad back and stuff. So if I can do it, you can. You can take the wheel off if you want. Just take care when you pull out the old one. It may be a little tight. Just disconnect it before you start. Before I put the new one in. I cleaned the area and cleaned the hole best I could. I also put some grease, very little, to help the new one go in. Just a very little. Take your time putting the new one in as to not damage the sensor. It's really easy.
 

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O. Be careful and try not to let stuff fall into the hole. And don't use spray cleaner if you have it out. Don't need anything else to cause issues. Really, it's easy. When I changed mine. My lights went off without having to clear them. I hope this helps 😊
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quick question: How do I know if I need an inductive or passive sensor? Those are the two options coming up for wheel speed sensors for my car. Mine is a manual 2001 1.6. :)
 

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I don’t see that designation here in the states or a 1.6 either.


Taking those sensors out can be problematic depending on the amount of road salt it’s been exposed to and the length of time it’s been in the hub. I normally disconnect the wire and use a hammer , punch, drill and a round file to clean up the hole. Some anti seize around the barrel of the sensor to hopefully keep that whole process from happening again.

They are virtually impossible to remove intact.
 
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