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Discussion Starter #21
So, I fixed everything aside from the boost hiss, and the car performs much better and the CEL is gone. But my gas mileage is complete trash. I'm at 240 miles when the gauge reaches the last quarter, which is ridiculous, because I used to get 325 by this point. I'm spending an extra 10 per gas fillup for 93 Octane due to the tune, so filling up more often is really not going to work. What should I be looking for that would cause such a drastic drop in mpg? I always get about 115 on the first quarter then it just tanks.
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What/where was the boost leak? What tune are you running (stage, 1, 2, 3., etc and what associated hardware upgrades)? Are there any current trouble codes and what are you fuel trim levels (this can help you determine; how well your engine is running)?
 

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I have a 2002 New Beetle Turbo S; there was quite a few years, I had running issues and poor gas milage, it took me really doing testing and a series, of parts replacements, to get things running well. Give us more info; about any codes, fuel trims, any parts you have replaced, repairs completed, how you feel the car runs currently and we can discuss more. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
My OBD Eleven doesn't want to let me find out the trim, but I caught that there's an intermittent P0030 code.

Currently my car is on a stage 1 tune, no upgraded parts. I have replaced the coil packs, spark plugs, air filter, B1S1 O2 sensor just two days ago, I've brought the car in a few times about the boost hiss and they said it was the intercooler pipe that goes into the intake manifold that was coming off. The car seems to lag at low speed, making going from full stop to up to speed sluggish. I hear lots of whistles on boost, so I think there may be more than one leak.

What else could cause this P0030? I don't have VAGCOM at all, nor can I really afford it at the moment, and I don't have a very easy way under my car to keep going under to test. I would assume my real issue is the boost/vaccuum leaks, but I tried testing specific spots and came up with nothing.
 

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Yeah, you need to fix your boost leaks FIRST; all kinds of issues, can stem from that and the car won't run right, until you do so. You might check out some of these videos; you can make your own boost tester with some pvc or soup can, to narrow down your problem. When under pressure, get a spray bottle with soapy water, spray all the joints, clamps, hoses down and look for bubbles, hissing sounds, indicating a leak. Smoke testing is another option; you can make your own smoke tester, as well, although a pressure tester looks to be less involved.

Lots of diy's and videos; going over the testing and pinpointing common leaking areas:


1.8T boost leak testing diy at DuckDuckGo




 

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Discussion Starter #27
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Here's some pictures of my foray into the engine today. The pink vacuum line I just put in today, I was hoping to replace all my vacuum lines today, but then I noticed that the leftmost line was 5mm, and also, i noticed two spots where an oily stuff was coming from lines. I get a sneaking suspicion these spots are my problems.

I also checked the big boost hoses, couldn't find any issues with them so I'll likely have to buy a boost pressure tester. I'll probably need a vacuum line tester too, like you recommended, but I want to know whats up with these oily leak spots. I know that's not normal, and they line up with where I'm hearing hissing and screeching on acceleration.

Thanks!
 

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Yeah, the hoses, under the intake manifold and near the oil dipstick tube, are typically DONE, after all these years. The various boost and pcv valves; are most likely, sticky, worn out or need replaced. As part of my attempt to get my 1.8T running right; I would through, each valve, check them as best I could and replaced them, one by one. Each new valve and bad hose replaced; tended, to improve the boost and running of my 1.8T

Many hoses, tend to get gooey from the oily fumes in the pcv system; or vacuum hoses, dry out, crack and sometimes just break off.

Here is a diy, going over the install of new hoses, in this case; upgraded silicone hoses, which are more durable.

In my case, I found; a number of suppliers, for hoses and used a combination of aftermarket silicone upgraded hoses. from, 034 Motorsports, Eurojet Racing and some, I even found from Gates. The silicone pcv upgraded hoses, can be gotten from a number of suppliers or pick/choose, like I did, to find a combo you like to save money or just go all in, replace, everything with the better quality, more durable silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
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What is that part thats oily right there? I'll need to replace that along with all the hoses for the crankcase breather.

Also, where is a good site to buy these parts? I see a kit on Amazon/Ebay but I dont want to do the same job twice.

After I replace these obvious issues, I'll be doing those pressure tests and vacuum leak tests, and follow up from there.
 

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ETKA and the vw parts site; are the best way to research things or clean off the part itself, the vw part # will be on there.

#9 here:

1.8 LITER. COUPE. Regulator valve. 1.8 LITER. 1.8 LITER 180 HORSEPOWER 2000-02. 1.8 LITER 225 HORSEPOWER. 1.8 LITER TURBO. 4 CYLINDER. A component which prevents an overpressure condition in a turbocharged engine. Engine Crankcase Vent Valve. PRESSURE REGULAR. Pressure regulator. Pressure valve. Regulator valve. Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve.
$59.80
MSRP
034129101B



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ETKA, can provide; more clear exploded views but can also, be confusing at times, always confirm the part with the old part and that way, you should be ok:

more here:





Look through more diagrams here:

 

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As to brands of hoses and types of hoses (e.g. rubber, upgraded silicone, etc.); that is a decision you need to make, balanced with what is available. As noted, there are genuine VW; the most expensive, aftermarket from brands like CRP/REIN, Gates with their lifetime warranty, upgraded silicone hoses form 034 Motorsports, Samco, Forge and many others. Discuss more, what you want to do and we can, go through what is available. Lately, I have been buying parts; from FCPEURO, as they offer oem parts and a lifetime warranty, on everything they sell, as noted, Gates is another lifetime warranty supplier.
 

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To get a sense, of the oem parts and prices from FCPEURO, the vent valve is sold here: ($17 compared to $60 from the VW dealer and a lifetime warranty):

Audi VW Crankcase Vent Valve - OE Supplier 034129101B
A4, A4 Quattro, Beetle, Golf, Jetta, Passat

Price each: $17.19

  • SKU: OEM-034129101B
  • FCP Euro ID: 95805
  • Made in Germany
  • Quality: OEM

Also known as a breather valve and oil separator
This valve is responsible for venting crankcase vapor into the intake manifold so the engine can burn it. Over time this valve can become clogged or can crack.


 

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Discussion Starter #34
I haven't fixed the piping issues yet, but now I have a new issue. My compressor isn't engaging. It happened randomly, i hear the engine surge every couple seconds, and no AC at all. Any ideas? The fans all run.
 

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Check, the fuse; on top of the battery, it typically gets hot and the plastic holder melt, which can cause a intermittent power connection issue.

I don't recommend his fix but this video, shows the common problem, which kills power to the a/c compressor:


Typically, you can remove the fuse; clean the contacts, bend them a bit, to make the contact better or worse case scenario. a new fuse box, maybe in order.

Otherwise, there can be other power issues or the clutch, can be getting worn out, losing it's ability to grab, kick on the compressor and then, your AC coil could be failing or failed .


Beyond that, you will probably need to hook up some a/c gauges and check the psi on high/low side, to diagnose what is going on.

If you find the psi levels; on the high/low side are close, you might have a internal vavle failures, outlines in this video: (this happend on my 2002 new beetle turbo s and vavle replacement, new seals, gasket and refill, fixed it!):


Here is a great thread; for troubleshooting tips and ideas:


Let us know, if any of these tips; end up helping you and if you end up finding any info, hooking up some a/c gauges. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey, so I did a lot of diagnostics, and found the Compressor Clutch coil was at .003 Ohms. Im not sure exactly what that means but, i do know its way out of the 3-4Ohms range. Where would I find a new coil? I'm sure they exist at Pick n Pulls but, i don't want to go through the procedure only to have to repeat it later. Thanks!

As for the boost leak, I just got a pressure tester in, and im gonna finally be able to figure that out should all go well. I also got the PCV hoses and parts in that you recommended from FCP Euro, so im on my way to attempt a fix.
 

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When i repaired my a/c compressor; i had to identify the compressor model and brand, in my case Sanden. I used my phone to take a photo of the sticker; which had Sanden and vw part numbers on it. Then searched online and found the part numbers for the parts i needed and was able to get the parts through mu local AutoZone (special order). There are places online that specialize in a/c repair parts or order locally.
 
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