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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 03 new beetle turbo is becoming a real scary car on the highway. I can be driving 60 mph and all of a sudden the car does not pull. I can press the accelerator to the floor but it only steady lose power. I made it off the highway safely after being scared out of my wits. I cut the car off and waited about 30 seconds and started it up again. It had all power again but that only lasted until I traveled about 2 more miles to a gas station. The car makes a sound that's in between a whine, a whistle, and a medium pitched moan when the car is moving. When I stop and then get off the brakes to go again the sound stops for a brief second. It sounds like its sucked up air. The EPC light is on so I had the car scanned. These are the codes it gave P0300, P0420, P0411, P02181, P0221, P0301, P0302, P0303 all in that order. I had my throttle body cleaned, changed temp sensor, thermostat, air and cabin filters changed. I don't know how much more of this I can take. Do you have any ideas of what is the problem anybody out there? all suggestions will be accepted.

Ms. rhondabug03
 

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Are the above trouble codes; before or after, all the work you just did? If you did the scan before the work; I would clear the codes and then, do a fresh scan. It would nice; to see a video, of the noise you are referring to; you could post it up to youtube and we could see/hear what you are referring to. I wonder, if you have a: vaccum leak, a bad diverter valve, a fuel delivery problem (fuel pressure), need to align the cleaned throttle body or a boost hose fell off.

Here are the definitions of your trouble codes you listed:

16684/P0300/000768 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16685/P0301/000769 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16686/P0302/000770 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16687/P0303/000771 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16605/P0221/000545 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18613/P2181/008577 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16795/P0411/001041 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16804/P0420/001056 - Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These are codes after the repairs. The mechanic said the vag com cleared all the codes except throttle body basic setting. The siren/howling noise started after the repairs. It was a faint sound at first but it gradually grew into a constant annoying noise. The car also wasn't losing power before the repairs.
 

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Can you make a video; of the noise? Failed diverter valves; make a unique sound, when they have a hole in them. Some have described it as a "honking" sound or a "flutter"; here is a video that has more of a flutter sound:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Lo7NIN78A0

Replacement part: Kayser 06A145710N

testing procedure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1z2N04P0PDk

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ection/charge_pressure_bypass_valve_checking/

https://www.google.com/search?q=06A...9i59l2j69i60j69i61l2&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Aside from that; you might check and see if you have a boost or vacuum leak; the vacuum hose, coming off the brake booster, commonly cracks and leaks, causing noise, rough idle, etc.

As for the trouble codes with the throttle body; after a cleaning, I would align the throttle body. If you continue, to get trouble codes; related to the throttle body, it maybe internal problem or the plug/wiring, have a intermittent connection issue. Here is a thread; where someone, had a similar problem and was able to fix the connection issue with the problems, clearing up after the repairs:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...-actuator-body-rough-idle-issue-resolved.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you guys for your input. I printed off the thread and will take it to my mechanic so he can read it and follow your suggestions. I will also make sure he checks for vacuum leaks, booster leaks, etc. Thanks again and I will let you know the outcome.

rhondabug03
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Billy I got some disturbing news from mechanic. He says my car has a 2.0 replacement engine in it instead of a 1.8 L Turbo. I know the cover plate over the engine was replaced with a cover from a 2.0 because the other cover was no good. Anyway, Im going to get a second opinion on that but these are the new codes: VAG 17947, 17949, 17950, 17951, 17952, 17953. Looks like I'm going from bad to worse !!!
 

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Hmm, that sounds bizarre and odd; can you take a picture of your engine and compartment? Does your New Beetle; have retracting wing, above the rear window? The Turbo models, all had the wings and the 1.9L diesel and 2.0L did not.

You have quite a few codes; bad fuel pump relays have caused allot of other codes to be thrown. You still have quite a few codes related to the throttle body.

17947 - Clutch Pedal Switch (F36): Implausible Signal

17949 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open Circuit

17950/P1542/005442 - Ross-Tech Wiki

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17951/P1543/005443

17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)

17953/P1545/005445 - Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes it has the wing above the rear window. I am going out and take a picture now. Its getting dark but I will get back with you in about 5 minutes.
 

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No need to worry; you have a 1.8 Turbo charged engine, presently installed in your car. Maybe your "mechanic"; got confused by the "20V" on the engine cover, which means 20 valves (e.g. 5 valves per cylinder x 4 = 20 valves). This guy, must really not know much about Volkswagens; the engine code and sticker on the front of the car should have made this pretty obvious.

The 2.0L non turbo; looks totally different: (note: the intake manifold; going over the top and valve cover).

https://www.google.com/search?q=2.0...rODNAhUEz2MKHe9ADyMQ_AUICSgC&biw=1247&bih=877
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Billy, Whew !! That's real good to know. Okay Im going to have my granddaughter upload the sound its making to youtube and then to this forum. You know the young people can do stuff like this with their eyes closed. On the other hand, me myself would have to learn how to do it.
 

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Too sad but funny.

Yes the car has a 1.8t, the 2.0l has the intake cross over the valve cover, not in front of the engine like the l.8t.

Forgot about the 20 Valve reference on the engine cover!

Need to be VERY careful working with the shop if they have no idea hot to determine the 1.8t vs the 2.0l.

Even a simple Internet Image search is all the stupid shop would have needed of they had any questions.

Additionally, the data from an OBDII tool may give the engine info, but it could be confirmed with a visual inspection.

Fourtitude.com - 2001 Beetle 2.0L GL Spark Plug and Air Filter DIY Replacement

http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/45387-how-replace-your-air-filter-1-8t.html
 

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From the video, I have a few comments.

1. I cannot believe you have a 2003 with the small original check black and white check valves on top of the valve cover. I think I changed mine about 6 years in to the cars age! The white part of the check valve basically disintegrates on the bottom of the valve.

2. This sounds lime some soft of hose air leak? Would have been nice to hear the noise under load. I would suggest smoke testing the intake air path. Any leaks will be very obvious. Since the engine is a turbo, you may want/need to use a bit more pressure than a few PSI, but start low.

Here is one way to use a cheap fluid transfer pump from the local parts store and a cheap $2 cigar from the local gas station/convenience store, and a rubber glove.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The car sounds the same under load. Once the car heats up to a certain temperature this is the sound. It stays at one volume continuously. It only stops for a second or 2 when I apply the brakes and then it sounds like air being sucked in. I will be changing mechanics as soon as I can find one in the area. I live in Central Florida and locally here the choices are slim to none. I had a very well known shop here tell me that I needed an oil cooler one time and it would cost me 600.00 to fix. My problem turned out to be that a crack in the coolant tank had been sealed and the sealant turned the coolant brown. Once I find a real vw mechanic here in Winter Haven I will let you know what they say is going on. Thanks again Billy and other members for your input.

rhondabug03
 

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If you believe; that the sound is related to your brakes, there maybe some valves/hoses, that could be a problem, have failed or one of the related hoses could be split, leaking, etc. There is a 45 degree plastic part; that connects to the hose, inserts into the brake booster and at the other end, a small rubber hose that connects to the metal vacuum line on the engine.

This particular hose; is a classic failure problem, it is a flexible plastic hose and it splits, as the heat makes it brittle over time. If it is really bad; it will cause a vacuum leak, a high pitched sound and if a significant loss of vacuum, rough idle. I've seen this; on a number of different VW's (Jetta, Golf, Beetle); the split hose is usually right at the connection on the brake booster and there is a high pitched... "weeeeeeeeee" sound, to the vacuum leak.

Small Vacuum Hose
For brake booster vacuum
Volkswagen Part # 1C0612041AA

https://www.google.com/search?q=1C0...j69i59j69i60l2j69i61&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Off of the brake booster; there is a hose that connects to vacuum. I have also heard of the "Vacuum Suction Pump" VW part # 058133753B; cracking, breaking, splitting or causing allot of noise.

https://www.google.com/search?q=058...i60l2j69i61.2754j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

In both of these cases; as the car is running, you could grab the related hoses and parts, see if the pitch or sound changes. If you don't get anywhere; you could start disconnecting various vacuum hoses and see if the sound goes away; that could pinpoint which related hose and components are where the noise is coming from.

Smoke testing; would be the pro tech's way to diagnose the problem. The grab, wiggle and pull off things; would be another way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am willing to try it all. I don't know where the sound is coming from so it could as well be from my brakes. When I had my oil changed the shop gave me a picture showing that my cv boot has a tear in it so I don't know. Every now and again my brakes will squeal and scrub a little after the car has not been driven for a couple of days. I will have the car smoke tested and print out your suggestions and take them with me to the mechanic once I find one. Again Thanks Billy for everything.

rhondabug03
 
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