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Aaron_N
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, newbie here. This is my first NB ever a 2001 Beetle 2.0. I am an Air cooled VW aficionado and early water cooled VW owner as well ( first year 85 Golf daily driver).
Long story shortened as much as humanly (but detailed)possible:
Saw a craiglists ad for this car about 7 months ago. Guy said car was not running but was runnig when he bought it.
Told the wife, this would be a great car for her to use for work compared to your awesome but gas hungry bouncy as hell 05 Jeep Wrangler.
Wife amazingly agreed!( told her I can fix anything)
Guy had it listed for 1500 but said it was a fixer upper. Researched it, went to go see it. Car had a dead battery, shot carb cleaner in intake to make sure it ran, it did. Car was a repo and had some interior dash parts and both interior door panels missing and only one key, no remote fob.
Haggled him down to 1100. Got car home. Did oil change, changed spark plugs, checked timing belt, found fuel pump was fried and replaced intank fuel pump with new unit. Put a fresh battery. Alarm/anti theft kept going on at first.Searched online for tips to reset alarm. Found a tip where you locked doors but left rear hatch open, then crawl through to start. Had to try a few times but finally got car to start and run. Wife was happy we drove around alleys and around the block. At idle car was rough. Check engine light was on, Ran code tester, showed misfire on #1 injector po1237.
Looked at injector, connector looked like someone had allready messed with it. Put new injector just to be shure all was go. Now I can't start car because I cant reset anti theft. Keeps going off. Can't find original steps online that worked first time of course. Have seen and tried many different processes and last one I have done is disconnect battery and reconnect while having key turned to on position. Alarm is off but when I crank the car there is no current to the fuel pump. When I disconnect the battery again and do the regular locking of the car the alarm is activated again as soon as I try to start it by turning the key, opening hood, trunk or passenger door. Back to where I was.
Again car was working and driving before this routine maintenance and fuel injector replacement. The more I researched I came to the conclusion that my drivers door latch button actuator was bad because upon locking it, it would sometimes do a double locking action. My research said this is a big time problem and when it is not working right , the car thinks its locked even when it is open. Maybe I got lucky that first time i reset the alarm/anti theft because the car ran fine that first time.
I bought a brand new door lock actuator a couple weeks ago, installed it, does not do that double locking action and now am at the same point, either no current to fuel pump when I do the battery re connect but alarm off, btw when i do this all the dash components turn on fine and even the auxiliary fans turn on in on radiator. Just that when I crank I cannot hear the fuel pump priming ever. When I do the regular re-connect of the battery but key in door lock, alarm goes off everytime and car cranks but does not start because again no juice to fuel pump because it thinks car is getting [email protected]!!
I want to love this car and show my wife it is a good car but it's getting hard to believe this.
Yes there is spark because when I shoot carb cleaner into the intake the car starts but then sputters out when carb cleaner is burnt off.
I have checked the fuses per researching online as well.

Any and all tips, or resetting procedures will be greatly appreciated, I will try anything, car was running before!!! please help. Wife is going to make me get rid of it if I can make it work soon.
With thanks,
Aaron.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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11,171 Posts
Have you replaced the fuel pump relay?
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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416 Posts
Leaving the fuel off the table. Because I think Smiley has a good point with the relay.

If you turn the physical key in the lock to 'lock' twice. Does the car "Lock". If you turn the key to the 'unlock' position, turn it to 'unlock' and HOLD it in the unlock position---does the drivers window roll down?

These items are not related to the FOB or the chip in the key. (The chip in the key for the anti theft works with the ignition/computer)

You mentioned you replaced the door lock actuator. Which part does that entail? The lock cylinder....rod...?? The entire "guts"? (There's a reason I'm wondering)

S-
 

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Are you sure that it is the immobilizer? When the immobilizer is activated there is a key-shaped warning light that comes on on the dash. Also, the engine will start and run for 1 second before turning off. Sounds like you may have a different problem.
 

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Aaron_N
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Oh yes I forgot that I did buy and replaced the Fuel pump relay. It clicks wen you turn the key to on position. When I was first troubleshooting fuel problem when I first got it, that was the first thing I thought after researching, fuel pump relay, but once I bought and installed the new one I found it was the actual pump. I do have the old relay. Maybe I'll put that in just to be sure.

As far as immobilizer Icon on dash. Hmm? Let me check that tomorrow.
Yeah in my research I did see that some people would post that car would run for about a second or so when immobilizer was activer. My car does not do that. There is just no current to the fuel pump or at least the fuel pump is not on. I will actually check current tomorrow with my multimeter at fuel pump.

Again what sucks is the car was running and driving.

I took the long route to take plugs off by removing intake, so I did disconnect MAF, and other items but I am pretty sure I reconnected everything.

I even read a post where you leave the key in the ignition so that the rfid sensor and sensor in ingnition switch "remember" each other for a few days while having a battery charger on it.
I know that people just start making up stuff at some point right?
I have tried just about everything. But like I said I can't remember exactly what I did originally. I just know I climbed through the trunk.
As far as the key rolling the window down. Yes when I disconnect the battery and do the locking from the drivers door, a few times when I turned the alarm off by unlocking it twice and holding it in the turned to unlock it did lower the window. But right now I have it where disconnected the battery and re-connected with the key on on position. It will not do the up window thing this way.

Also I remember that orignally you could see the the little red led on the door lock button blinking showing alarm was armed. In this mode it never turns on.
What do you think?
Thanks.
Aaron
 

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Aaron_N
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
As far as the new actuator it was the whole internal part, new switch and new latch attached together. I kept the same key tumbler.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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11,171 Posts
Where did you get the relay? Autozone, etc. relays have been known to not work properly.
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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416 Posts
As far as the new actuator it was the whole internal part, new switch and new latch attached together. I kept the same key tumbler.
The problem I was considering shouldn't be the issue then. VW door latches have a small board that gets bad solder joints that causes the lock system not to function. Basically your car will physically unlock--but the computer will think the car is still lock--door opens--and the system won't go into 'ready' mode. Hence the questions about the door electronic operational part with the windows and such.

If you open the door first thing in the morning (or anytime after a short delay...) You should hear the fuel pump prime itself. Normally that process takes place when you first turn the key to the 'on/run' position.(at least it does on a 'normal' car..VW seems to be one of the unique ones)..pump runs for about 3-5 seconds to prime. If the electronic part of the door lock is working the electronics correctly, you should hear it prime when you first open the door.

So I'm back thinking fuel pump relay, fuse, wiring,....It's going to take some detective work to figure it out.

S-
 

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I believe the ECU needs to see a signal from the cam sensor and/or rpm sensor in order to energize the fuel pump relay. (A safety thing to shut off fuel in case of an accident.) You might check and make sure those connectors are OK after removing the intake. The rpm (aka "crank shaft position") sensor connector is near the dipstick funnel. The cam sensor connector is on the front of the cylinder head near the timing belt end of the engine.

Here is a video showing how the car behaves if the immobilizer is activated:

Immobilizer 2 and 3 Key Adaptation - YouTube
 

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Aaron_N
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You guys are awesome.
Fuel pump Relay was bought from Oreilly's so I am sure it is the same aftermarket you can buy at Autozone. Will try to put on the old one.

Yes will check all connections for sensors under the hood again.
Might be one or the other or both. Just going to have to back track.

Yes actuator on door should not be a problem at this point being new.

Fuel pump does not prime when I open the door.

So should I do a disconnect of the battery and do a regular locking of the doors so the alarm will arm again? This is how I originally got the car started and running. Again currently I have it where I did the reset by having the key on "on" position and the alarm seems "off". Which way should i go on this part?

Let me know guys.
Thanks again.

Aaron
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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416 Posts
I know first thing in the morning when we open the door to the beetle we hear the pump 'run' for about 3-5 seconds to prime. From that point forward it does need the computer to tell it to continue to run, using the engine inputs so it knows enough to shut off in case of accident. (Also done via an inertia switch on older cars/trucks---pretty sure all cars have some such switch.) (It only primes once however---so if you open the door first thing in the morning and it primes? It won't do it again for a while)

Heck, I'd just as soon pull the access for the fuel pump under the back seat and hook a multimeter to it and see what--if any voltage it's getting.

This is an oddball one to be sure.

S-

edit: I can't help much on the bypass key thingie....It's not something I'm familiar with
 
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