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Certified Arcade Tech
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Having fought with the car for several hours today? We finally changed out the thermostat for a factory one. It was changed at some point. It had a rubber seal type that wraps around the thermostat, not the factory thermostat goes in first and then a big o-ring goes in 2nd.

At any rate. We flushed out all the old green ****. And the radiator hoses where factory and due for replacement.

After we had clear running water out of the car? I drained it again by pulling the hose to the rad (it was getting replaced anyway) and put in a quart of G13 in the overflow. (I rarely dilute the first quart, as that mixes with the distilled water still in the block and heater/lines.) I prepped a mix of 50/50 and topped off the 'orb' and we started it up. It sucked it down pretty well, and I refilled it again using the 50/50. We then let it run for about 15 minutes. It made it to temp and the upper radiator hose went from "peewarm" to HOT. The hose going to the thermostat was running 'warm'.

As a side bar: I'm used to the waterpumps pushing fluid OUT of the thermostat housing and not drawing it 'IN' as seems to be the case here. So that did throw me a bit. Seems I have to remember there are cars that have 'stats' in the lower hoses.

At any rate. We got the "Boiling" action in the 'orb'. The heater hoses are both flippen HOT!! So I was expecting the usual fantastic heat from the car! We had nadda. Zero heat and the heater hoses are about as hot as the sun!

So two questions: (I didn't see it answered under the other thread regarding this issue)

Is that boiling action actually normal? Kinda looked like an old style tea kettle.

The small line going into the 'orb'? It's not blocked, I blew into it after the flush out and I did hear the 'bubbling', so I know it's not blocked up.

Is there any tricks to getting the heat back into this thing? It had great heat going into the garage, flush and change out the hoses and thermostat and no heat?

I figure we probably have a huge air pocket in the heater core..and probably only have flow through the end cap of the core.

So the two questions:

Boiling Coolant in the 'orb'

Tricks to burp out/get the heat working again!

We fought with it for quite a while...and ran out of day light and patience LOL.

Thanks in advance!!

S-
 

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Sometimes you have luck when the car cools down again and you restart the engine for the 2nd warm up.

Might try removing the top to the expansion tank and squeezing the lower radiator hose to see of you can burp the engine a bit.

Also what is the history on the water pump? Plastics impellers crack on the shaft and/or blades break off. Did you put your finger in the thermostat hole and check the pump blades and make sure the impeller did not spin?
 

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The air escaping from the larger of the hoses connecting to the expansion tank is not normal. I think it happens when the smaller hose is not allowing the air to escape, leaving just the other hose. You don't seem to have flow through that smaller hose to the back of the expansion tank yet.

You need to follow the correct procedure when filling the tank. Never fill the expansion tank above the full mark, about half way up. Add coolant slowly to allow time for air to escape. Tighten the cap before starting the engine. If the coolant drops too low, shut off the engine, remove the cap, add coolant and repeat. The cap needs to be on to pressurize the system which aids in purging the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, we will give everything a shot on Tuesday my next day off.

In regards to the water pump? I did shove my finger into the thermostat hole and couldn't feel anything at all. Then again it was about 10 degrees and my fingers where frozen and sore. I probably didn't have my fingers extended far enough into the hole-or at the right angle. Given the fact the car had kick-a&& heat before we did all this? I think the problem is more simpler then the water pump.

The small hose on the top of the expansion tank...It does seem a bit wimpy with the flow. Upon pulling the hose out with the engine running? At idle there isn't much flow unless one drops the level of the hose down slightly--then it starts to flow out (By drop the level, if I remove it with the engine running and still cold of course--If I hold the hose above the port on the expansion tank? We get no flow unless we rev the engine a bit--and even then it's wimpy) If I reconnect the hose to the expansion tank? I can see it drain into the expansion tank. Note I said "Drain" because it does not seem to be under pressure. More or less an even slow flow.

I take it that our "Tea Kettle" action is the air back flushing through the larger hose?

I'll be back at it on Tuesday afternoon. I honestly wish I knew more of the history of the water pump. The only thing I know for sure is the timing belt was changed last year. But all things considered? We had outstanding heat before we drained the green and changed the thermostat, the engine never seemed to overheat or have any issues that would point to a bad pump? (As shown by the VCDS check I did twice, and found the engine was in fact running to cold)

Right now it's a bit of a mystery. Short of sucking down on the tube like the other gentleman did that got his working? (And I would rather not find out first hand the taste of G13). Then again? If that's what it would take to purge the rest of the air from the system? I can rig up a device using our suction pump.

:dunno: Just odd this one...

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Discussion Starter #5
Did some research before I have to head into an early day. I think I'll try something unique. Maybe a transfer pump on the small return hose to really "pull" the coolant and hopefully get that air pocket pulled out of the system.

It's a cheap possible solution, and what the heck? I'm ready to try anything <G>

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You should be able to get this same design pump from your local parts store?

3-in-1 Hand Pump Siphon Gas Oil Liquid Air : Amazon.com : Automotive

Connect to the small return line and see if you can pull or push through the small hose and use the expansion tank and/or additional coolant 50/50 mix as an addition source.

Or use low pressure compressed air (10 PSI) to fill the expansion tank with the small hose disconnected and the nipple blocked off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
jfoj:

The pump and a lot of "massaging" the radiator hose did the trick!

I ran that transfer pump for about 15 minutes and had decent 'flow' after a fashion. I then had the wife start the car after a big "Burp" happened..no change :confused: So I massaged the upper hose again with the car running---Hooked the transfer pump at the same time the engine is running and went to town.. Then had the wife kick the RPM up one last time..

Next thing I know she's banging on the windshield yelling "It works!"

That was the biggest PITA I've ever had purging air from a cooling system! On the flip side? I picked up the extra gallon of coolant from the dealership. I think I'll mix it up with the distilled and have 2 1/2 gallons of ready mix for the car's next coolant related adventure.

Of course the car had to once again say "Feed ME Seymore". (fans of the Little Shop of Horrors will know the reference)

Went to pull out of the "Barn/Garage" and noted a rear brake dragging sound. Trouble seems to be the parking brake cable itself. Removed the cable from the caliper and while the caliper return spring for the parking brake lever is very "Blah"? The cable itself has a couple of spots where it's dragging internally. Thankfully that part is pretty cheap.

The other money eater? The drivers side seat adjust cable froze in the unlatched position. And of course? I manage to break it off the plastic clip under the seat. I'll be removing it in a day or so and cleaning the gunk and re-epoxy the plastic back together.

Never ending ball of FUN with this car!! So we're driving it on 1/2 a parking brake system..and a pair of needle nose vice grips holding the seat adjust in place.

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Glad you have things working for now, but something is wrong if you have to go through all of that to purge air out of the system?

Not the first time someone has had issues with the 2.0l.

Good luck with the other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think the issue was just my silly dumb luck.

That and the fact when I flushed things out? I failed to notice the oil cooler. So I have a feeling some more of that "Green" stuff is still lurking around. Or it may be that an air pocket was hanging around and I just didn't follow correct procedure.

Lesson learned :) And my thanks for the help in getting it sorted out. I'll give that transfer pump a lot of credit. As cheapo as a tool goes? It's pretty cheap. It also worked pretty darn well! Normally stuff from Harbor Freight tends to break pretty quick for anything plastic.

Ah well. On to the next big issue LOL

S-
 
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