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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New DV, new fuel filter, checked for vacuum leaks, intercooler piping is on tight. My car feels like a regular 4 cylinder with about 90 hp. I have tried unhooking the MAF, no change in the way the car behaves. I then unhooked the negative terminal on the battery to clear out any fault codes, the car runs great again! But then the car warms up, and reverts back to crap mode...Could this be a coolant sensor(mine has the green top) problem? I'm grasping at straws here. The goofy thing is, I can't always duplicate these results by unhooking the battery. BTW the car only has 52,000 miles. I love this car, and am addicted to the zippiness! Right now it's like driving a can of caffeine free diet coke, when you know it really should be red bull!:mad: :mad: :mad:
 

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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
something is obviously throwing a code because it goes away when I unplug the battery. Could the MAF sensor still be bad even if my power doesn't come back when I unplug it?
 

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Premium Member
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11,013 Posts
This was happening to me too. Lagging power at 3000rpm. The wastegate wasn't working properly and the engine would go to safe mode. I replaced the wastegate and bam! he's running great again. Hopefully this helps you.
 

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The part from the dealer was $82. They were the ones to diagnose it for me because the hubby tried for two months without success. Total bill from them was $250. He could have done it had he known the part was bad. I don't know how to post pictures so I can't point it out to you. Maybe someone else can do that? I hope this helps. :)
 

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Premium Member
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Glad to help. Do you have a manual? If not check out the library. Look it up by Chilton is good enough. At least you can see where it is. It looked easy enough for me to replace so I'm sure you can do it. Good luck.
 

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180 Degrees out of faze
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841 Posts
Before you go out and buy a part that you may not need, get the codes read. Otherwise you are only making a guess that could end up costing you $$$, and not fixing the problem.
Another possibility is that the N75 valve needs cleaning. Or, one of the vacuum lines has a small pin hole leak. Or, the the thrust sensor is intermittent. Or, a lot of other things.

If you bought the car new, you may still have warranty service on the drive train. Call the dealer to see if you are covered, and let them fix it.
 

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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The N75 is next to the DV, right? What's the best way to clean it?
As I said before, when I disconnect the battery, the problem goes away, and the car runs like a champ, but then I guess it goes back into "limp mode". It might be worth mentioning that I found oil in my old DV when I replaced it. Could the N75 be fouled too?
 

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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Okay, unhooked battery to reset codes, N75 has been cleaned, problem has not come back, but I haven't gotten on the throttle terribly hard either. I'm wondering if an "overboost" situation would cause the car to go into limp mode. My car is not chipped, and is basically stock except for snowbox removal, and K&N filter.

Car seems to surge when the boost is working. Is this normal?:confused:

You know...I might just drop a VR6 in this thing and skip all the hassle:guitar:
 

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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Okay, so I'm finally gonna break down and have my local VW dealer take a looksee. Hope they don't tell me something I don't wanna hear... $$$$$$$$$$$$$
 

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I love my family!
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2,887 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
KICK [email protected]#! My car screams now! Between the new DV, N75, snowbox removal, and the K&N filter, it just rips up the road! Now I'm smilin'. The trip to Miami won't suck half as bad now!:banana: :rockband: :heart: :bigthumb: :pinch:
 
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