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need an air-cooled beetle driver's opinion

6K views 34 replies 18 participants last post by  csdoty 
#1 ·
I have always wanted an air-cooled bug and I've always wanted to learn how to fix them and everything. Since summer is just starting I was thinking it's finally time to get one.

First of all I know almost nothing about engines, but I want to learn. If I get one that's in good working order would I be able to do a lot of the maintenance myself?

I'm thinking of getting one for $2000 at most. Is it possible to get one that is in good working condition for that? It doesn't have to look all that great. I kind of like the beat-up look anyway. It's a 40+ year old car, I think it should look like it.

I live in Mass so it will be a summer car only and, I don't really do a lot of driving. The only places I go are all within 10 miles. And It's almost all back roads. So is it a good idea to do this or should I just not even bother getting one at all?
 
#2 ·
Getting an old beetle is a commitment. You will have to work on it. They are not maintenance free like modern cars. But on the upside the technology is more than 60 years old, and they are easier to work on than those modern cars of today.
You will have to socialize with the vintage VW crowd for advice and sometimes sympathy. :) They are the best source for info and help. As any hobby you get back what you put into it.
The first thing I would buy is the book "How to keep your Volkswagen alive.." by John Muir. There is a whole chapter about buying a beetle in there and a great source of "how to" stuff that is written in language for average reader like us.
If you do find a beetle in your price range try to find one that is running and driving. Good luck! :)
 
#4 ·
I bought you last year. I don't know enought about them to do work myself. I bought one that was fully restored, but he did leak some oil and even burn some. (Do all of them?) I had a good time with it last Summer, but I desperately missed driving a New Beetle. I think the only way (for me at least) is to have it as a "toy" or a weekend plaything. Good luck to you, and I hope you find one!!!!:D
 
#5 ·
Considering it is stock here are the biggies:

The OB only has a 2.5 quart oil capacity and no real filter--just a screen, so the oil needs to be changed frequently. (Add on kits to put on a real filter and add oil capacity are available.)

The OB engine has solid lifters (not hydraulic self adjusting like newer stuff) so the valves must be adjusted frequently--not difficult once you "get it".

The OB has old style points and condensor ignition--points and dwell timing need to be adjusted for optimum running. (I'd recommend just installing a Perlux Ignitor in the distributor and forgetting all that.)

The brakes in the OB need to be manually adjusted by turning a little star shaped wheel through the back side of the backing plate or front of drum depending on year.

Any car that old will have old brittle wiring and its' associated problems.

Make sure that the engine seals are in place and all the engine tin is there and in good shape so that the engine cools properly.

There is other stuff, it has been a while since I've owned one, but this is what came to mind. They are fun to drive and tinker around with... Enjoy!
 
#7 ·
Word has it that they "all" leak oil. I've only had two...one did, one didn't. But the second was sent packing at 18,000 miles, a true lemon (1975 fuel injected). My '68 was by far more reliable but marked its territory with oil every time it was parked.

The old torsion bar front suspension had some quirks in that if worn, going over bumps, such as train tracks, could set off an oscillation that could only be brought under control by coming to an almost complete stop.

Rust is the biggest enemy these old cars have. You can only patch so many times and places before it's all gone.

Be prepared for no cold air in the summer (a few had a/c, but not many though because of needing ~10 hp to run the compressor when only 40 hp was available to start with) and no heat in the winter. Creature comfort, as we know it today, is almost totally absent. No power anything.

Plan on driving with the steering wheel cranked 10-15 degrees into the wind in a stiff crosswind and also be prepared to get passed--a lot. 40 hp can only propel you so fast. Most motorcycles have twice that much or more.

Previous poster mentioned brittle wiring but there really isn't a lot of wiring in one of these things as long as you stay away from the fuel injected ones.

All in all, though, I'd like to have another one if they weren't so damned old and rusty now.
 
#9 ·
Word has it that they "all" leak oil.
The 68 in my shop begs to differ! :D Replaced the pushrod tube seals and oil cooler seals, and now it doesn't leak a drop.

Previous poster mentioned brittle wiring but there really isn't a lot of wiring in one of these things as long as you stay away from the fuel injected ones.
They really do have a LOT of wires. I replaced the wiring harness in mine, and man, that was a PAIN IN THE :moon:. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't. Period. Find someone that is good at it and will charge a decent price.
 
#8 ·
The most reliable ones would be early 70's, pre fuel injection. I've had a bunch of them over the years and have enough parts stored to build several from a stripped chassis.

The tiny oil capacity is certainly one thing to keep in mind - lost an engine on my 76 because of that. I've seen deep sump kits that add a quart or so.

It's been a while, but I remember mine being very fun to drive and relatively quick. I had exhaust and carb work on all of them with the holley bug spray being my favorite. My 70 had a stinger exhaust that would blow flames when engine braking down a hill - wild at night! Dropped in the front with wide tires all the way around - handled really well.

My 57 that is in storage will be the first car I've ever kept stock. I don't have a decent garage to keep it in if I pull it out of storage so it sits until I do (14 years now).
 
#10 ·
The oil cooler o-rings in my '68 were problematic...that's what caused me to part company with that car. I shouldn't have gotten rid of it and have regretted it since, but just got tired of the mess it makes when the fan blows that oil all over Creation.

There may be what you consider a lot of wires but by the standards of today, here are very, very few wires in that thing. Lights, ignition, starting and charging, and instruments. What else is there? I'm not saying I want to dig in and do the wiring harness but if I was forced to do a wiring harness on a car, I think an air-cooled Beetle would be at or near the top of the list of cars I'd choose.
 
#11 ·
Gilmore Enterprises they do ac for beetles. and the old beetles did have heat. you just have to make sure everything in clamped right so there are no leaks.

in the words of a famous car guy.

If you build a car exactly the way it was originally, it will work just fine. -- Jay Leno

Reguarding the oil leaks. Some parts of the VW aircooled motor were designed to leak. They lubricate some parts. Don't blame the 40 year old car or blame Dr. Porsche. :D
 
#13 · (Edited)
Your rocker assembly does. You do have a rocker assembly? There is also a leak to lubricate the flywheel. Let's face it the car was not made to strict tolerances. Oil will leak out and we are straying too far from the subject of this thread.

Yes you can buy a decent bug for around 2k. Most likely it will be a later model beetle. (68 and up)
 
#16 ·
What are you talking about, lubricating rockers and flywheels? The only rockers that I'm aware of that are outside of the engine are the rocker panels. Sure the rocker arms need lube...but they're inside the engine and their oil is meant to stay inside with them. And lubing a flywheel?? That would be a first. What part of a flywheel needs lubed?
 
#14 ·
Make sure when you go to buy one, if you make that decision, you do a total check, floor pans, heater channels, front apron, Etc. Otherwise, when you tear out the carpet and a hole is staring back at you, your problems just started. Also look out for the Bugs being held together with Bondo, after doing the work on mine, I'd love to shoot who ever told the idiot that it was okay to bondo an entire quarter panel and then paint over it.
 
#15 · (Edited)
For over 4 years mine has been parked in the same spot every night and the oil stain under him is about the size of a nickle. So ya he leaks oil but not enough to even stain the motor.

Every 1000 miles I change the oil, lubricate the suspension, check/adjust the points, check fan belt tension. check the valve clearances and if I needed to make adjustments check the timing. This takes the best part of an hour and a $10 bill. Its not exactly difficult but it can seem daunting at first. Once you get the procedure down it's actually kind of fun. :)

Tom aka Fowvay

P.S. The tools to do all that work are an oil container, 2 box wrenches, 3 sockets, a grease gun, flat head screw driver, timing light and dwell meter. Parts needed are 2 cork gaskets, 1 paper gasket and 3 quarts of 30W oil.
 
#17 ·
Dude all I am saying is that stuff leaks. They can get out of control if there a seal like the ones on the valve covers don't seat right. Regarding the flywheel I should have said gland nut. Sorry.
Fact is VW's (aircooled ones) will leak oil and some leaking is expected. Trust me.

I have built a few. :cool:
 
#18 ·
My old air-cooled VW is still the one vehicle that I miss the most.
As xscribe mentioned, read the John Muir book first to get an idea of beetle ownership.
I had a bus, but many engine parts are similar to the beetle.
There are pros that can help if you don't feel up to the task.
I had my top end rebuilt by a VW mechanic, but I pulled the engine and tore it apart/put back together myself.
I learned a lot about what makes it tick. It's actually easy.
They require you to be "intimate" with them and you will never forget them for that.:)
I had an external oil cooler and a fender mount oil filter.
Even rusted body parts can be replaced.
Here's a few sites to get an idea of parts.
jbugs
west coast metric
Good luck!
 
#19 ·
An old bug is kind of a codependent relationship. They take a degree of dedication but they are so much fun to drive. The car responds on the road like no other (except when you tell it to go fast:)) and when you have hda one if you get rid of it you will always regret it. You will need to learn about the engine but it is not hard to work on.

Don't underestimate an old bug in the winter. They start up and run in any weather and they will travel in snow real well. The heaters take a few miles to warm up but if the hoses are in good shape they work well (but if you have passengers in the back seat they may be too hot.) Check out local air-cooled clubs. They might help you find a good bug.
 
#20 ·
thanks everyone. All this advice is a lot of help. I bought the john muir book and have been reading it. It's pretty interesting actually... If I can find a bug in good condition I'm definantly going for it!:)

Don't underestimate an old bug in the winter. They start up and run in any weather and they will travel in snow real well. The heaters take a few miles to warm up but if the hoses are in good shape they work well (but if you have passengers in the back seat they may be too hot.) Check out local air-cooled clubs. They might help you find a good bug.
The only reason I worry about it for winter is becuase of all the salt on the roads and rusting.
 
#22 ·
If you're still real serious after reading John Muir's book, you might want to pm one of our org members (vwgary) - he's originally from your part of the world and previously owned a gazillion air-cooled VWs.
Maybe he still knows where some bargains are lurking. Good luck.
 
#23 ·
I own 2 aircooled VWs. One is a 66 beetle convertible and the other is a 69 VW bus. My wife and I just love these cars! And yes, you cannot only learn to work on them, you can easily completely rebuild the engine! Those who recommended the Muir book are dead on. You need one of those even before you buy a car so you will be acquainted with them. When you do buy one, or any old car for that matter, DO NOT BUY ONE THAT NEEDS RESTORATION TO BE ENJOYED! So many times I see newbies get in over their heads and end up selling a dead pile of parts and getting out of the hobby. Buy one you can enjoy tomorrow and can fix up as you go and as you learn. The next thing is join a local aircooler club. You will need these guys for parts, advice, and help. You can go to thesamba.com and find a club. And remember, with any old car, rust is death so check it out underneath before you buy. A lot of VW rust, such as floor pans, is cheap and easy to remedy. Some other rust can be very expensive. Learn the difference before you buy. Good luck and have fun!
 
#24 ·
I built several from a 60 cabriolet to a 59 barndoor bus, if your looking for an air cooled VW stick to pre 67 for anything that will hold value, also dont worry about winter driving, thats what they were built to do:D find one and get a really good undercoating on it and you will be able to drive it anywhere
 
#25 ·
ok, i didnt read the entire thread but i wanted to throw my 2 cents in.

i used to own a 1970 Vw bug that i completley rebuilt, i only sold it because i had to drive over 60 miles round trip every day for school. old bugs require alot of loving care, but they will reward you every day by starting and running like they always have. that is if you replace any part that comes off of it with a part of equal or greater performance. stay away from EMPI unless its vintage, Gene berg is great, Scat makes amazing shifters, and Jake Raby(see here: Raby's Aircooled Technology) is someone to listen too and follow.

now that thats out of the way, you can find a decent bug for under 2 grand. look around for a local VW show and ask for help! you will be suprised at how many old school VW guys will offer their time and help to you!

Matt
 
#27 ·
i disagree, if you go with an early 70s model or a late 60s model you get the IRS rear suspension.

Matt
 
#32 ·
i broke many CV joints. but then again i had about 190HP and 205 FT lbs on tap. all you really have to do is upgrade to bus CV joints on the outer an leave the inner stock. i never managed to break on inner CV, and i beat on that car!

anyways, i prefer IRS to swing axle because of the tire wear and camber issue. but hey, to each their own. fat chicks need love too!!

Matt
 
#33 ·
Matt, I have to agree and disagree. As for parts, you are completely correct. I buy only German parts. The rest is junk which will fail in short order. If I can't find a new German part, I will go for an old, used German part.

Now as far as performance in an old VW goes, I have problems with investing $8000 into a VW so it will perform like a Camero when you can buy a REAL Camero for half that. Maybe its just me, but my stuff is bone stock.
 
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