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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 04’ Turbo S Beetle with a blown head gasket. I purchased a working motor and replaced the timing belt with a new water pump and tensioner, clutch/flywheel, and installed a “hybrid” oil pan. I’ve put everything back together and cannot get it to start. I’ve triple checked all of my electrical connections and grounds. There are no soft codes showing on the scanner. The check engine light is on, as well as the EPC. I figured it might be flooded with fuel, so removed the new spark plugs and allow everything to dry out. I removed the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the motor, allowing any excess fuel to “cycle through the intake/ exhaust valves. I have spark, fuel, and compression. Not sure what to do ??‍♂. Has anybody had this issue before? Thanks in advance
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You may have inadvertently allowed the cam and/or injection pump to rotate and get out of synch...
Did you confirm all of the timing markings were in alignment before you closed everything up?
 

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Basics:

1, are you getting good spark?

2. Good compression?

3. Fuel pressure?

a. Confirm the fuel hoses arn't backwards on the fuel rail; i have made this mistake, a number of times and it will cause a no start condition.

What is the history of the new/used motor; is it known good and running before installation?

What scan tool are you using? Have you cleaned and run a throttle body alignment procedure?

If the immobilizer light is blinking; you might fo a hard reset of the ecu (remove pos/neg battery cables; touch together, then reinstall).
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Basics:

1, are you getting good spark?

2. Good compression?

3. Fuel pressure?

a. Confirm the fuel hoses arn't backwards on the fuel rail; i have made this mistake, a number of times and it will cause a no start condition.

What is the history of the new/used motor; is it known good and running before installation?
I purchased the motor from a vehicle that was in a collision.
Basics:

1, are you getting good spark?

2. Good compression?

3. Fuel pressure?

a. Confirm the fuel hoses arn't backwards on the fuel rail; i have made this mistake, a number of times and it will cause a no start condition.

What is the history of the new/used motor; is it known good and running before installation?

What scan tool are you using? Have you cleaned and run a throttle body alignment procedure?

If the immobilizer light is blinking; you might fo a hard reset of the ecu (remove pos/neg battery cables; touch together, then reinstall).
Hey billymade I confirmed that I have good spark. Previously, I had actually did what you had mentioned and installed the fuel hoses “backwards”. I corrected that yesterday. I just checked the spark plugs and they were wet with fuel. I just let them dry out and I’ve been cycling through the motor with the fuel pump fuse removed to get rid of any excess of fuel in the cylinder. I’m thinking it could just be VERY flooded.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
What about compression; did you see this new/used engine run, before install? Is known a "known good" part?
I didn’t see this motor run before, I removed it from a vehicle that was in a collision. Before I had done any work to the motor, I did a “leak down” test to ensure the motor was in good health. I ran each cylinder at 130psi and checked the valve seating of both intake and exhaust ports. There was no leaks with soapy water when sprayed onto the valves I was testing. I attached a funnel to the dipstick tube to try to hear any “blow by” from any of the piston rings. Everything seemed to be very strong.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
You may have inadvertently allowed the cam and/or injection pump to rotate and get out of synch...
Did you confirm all of the timing markings were in alignment before you closed everything up?
Hey BigJon I ensured that everything was lined up correctly before the installation
 

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The only other things I can think of or, the fuel pressure being in spec, the immobilizer kicking on (do a hard reset) or the throttle body alignment settings being lost, in that case run a throttlebody align the procedure. What scan tool; are you using? What engine code is the new motor and what car did it come out of (1.8T in the turbo s is a awp code), did you swap over the external accessories from the old motor to the new or leave everything on, as is?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
The “new” motor is an AWW out of an 02’ Jetta. Most of the external accessories I kept from the “old” beetle motor. I only have a basic scan-tool so I’m gonna borrow a buddy’s OBDII scanner to try to clear any hard codes and do an electronic throttle body alignment. Hopefully that’ll work!
 

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I did this same thing when I replaced my timing belt and water pump.
What I found was the fuel was not pumping enough gas to the injectors to start in just one cycle
I cycled the key about 10 times to get enough gas pumped to the engine before it would start.

This was only after I removed the timing cover and checked the timing and verified all hoses were correct.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I did this same thing when I replaced my timing belt and water pump.
What I found was the fuel was not pumping enough gas to the injectors to start in just one cycle
I cycled the key about 10 times to get enough gas pumped to the engine before it would start.

This was only after I removed the timing cover and checked the timing and verified all hoses were correct.
My biggest concern is that the EPC, Check Engine, AND Battery lights are on. I checked all of my grounds, connections, fuses, relays, and hoses to make sure it’s all correct. I’ve cycled the key multiple times, I’m certain I’m getting enough fuel because my spark plugs were wet with fuel when I checked them.
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Did you try; a hard reset of the ecu? Is the immo light flashing? Did the TBA complete; successfully? All basics are good?: compression, spark and fuel pressure?

All of the lights on in the speedo is odd; as is, the airbag code. I'm running out of ideas; on what to check.Hard reset of the ecu; can clear the ecu memory and can help, sometimes... worth a shot.
 

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Check that big wire that leads from the battery negative post and is attached to the top of the bell housing. You have all the classic symptoms of having forgotten to reconnect it. It attracts to the motor mount bolt on top of the bell housing nearest the radiator. The one with the extra 13 mm nut on top.
 

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Oh, yeah... one last thing; how old is the gas in the tank? I have had gas go "bad" and its combustibility go way down, to where a engine won't start at all. You might put a little of the gas on the ground and try to ignite it with a lighter, if it doesn't burn very well, it could be bad. Bad gas, tends to have a odd smell as well. You could pull the fuel pump; siphon out the old gas and add fresh.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Hey guys just wanted to give you all an update:
I performed a compression test on the motor a few days ago and found that I had ZERO compression in all four cylinders. It turned out that I didn’t install the timing belt correctly 🤦🏼‍♂️. I was only off by a few teeth on the camshaft but I pretty far off from the crank shaft mark. The good news is that I checked my valves/piston heads with a borescope, none of the valves are bent and there’s no damage to the piston head. The bad news is I have to try to adjust the belt with the motor in the car. Has anybody changed a timing belt in a car before? Thanks again for all of your guy’s help 👍
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