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Discussion Starter #1
I hate to double post, but I was hoping to get as many eyeballs as I can on this. Our 2002 Beetle all of a sudden started acting crazy. Giving it gas doesn't seem to change this behavior. Any help on how to start diagnosing this would be great.

Beetle Noise - YouTube
 

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Is the CEL on?
My guess is that you're having coil pack issues- a well known problem for our beetles. 2.0's do have coil packs, right?

My 1.8t was really sluggish like your beetle. Replaced the coilpacks and she's silky smooth.

Our coil packs are a recall item as well- the dealer should remedy your problem for ya.

Hope that this is as serious as it gets for your issue- all the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah interesting ... the shop is saying that it could be the coil also. I wonder if the dealer will still fix that if that turns out to be the case. Let me research a bit on this recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oh and the CEL is flashing on and on. The car sort of sputters sometimes and can barely hold idle.
 

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Ah interesting ... the shop is saying that it could be the coil also. I wonder if the dealer will still fix that if that turns out to be the case. Let me research a bit on this recall.
Not a recall or TSB item.

oh and the CEL is flashing on and on. The car sort of sputters sometimes and can barely hold idle.
What is the shop saying the DTCs are? Could reveal why the CEL is on, but it would also be a result of a bad coil.

M.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
coil, was the shops initial guess but he said he'd have to call me later for further details.
 

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coil, was the shops initial guess but he said he'd have to call me later for further details.
Ask specifically and write down the codes; bring 'em here! If your just getting an estimate, bring it here also, changing the coil is a very easy DIY project.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm going to the shop in the AM. Now they're saying I need valves replaced etc and it's going to cost $1600. Something smells fishy ... this is the same shop that did a timing belt change 6 months ago. I bet they goofed somewhere which cause the internals to blow up. I need to go check up on this ...argh!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok so I talked to the shop and he said he thinks it's a broken valve spring. I'm not sure what to do. Some random facts ...

1) car is just under 90k and it's an 02
2) first owner, but no warranty of any kind from the dealer (checked at a dealer)
3) independent shop says it's a busted valve spring estimated at a $1600 repair
4) CEL codes are 300, 301, 302, 303 and 304
5) the shop also did a engine vacuum fluctuation test and said that the results were swinging up and down wildly (not sure what this is)

What do you guys think?
 

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Ok so I talked to the shop and he said he thinks it's a broken valve spring. I'm not sure what to do. Some random facts ...

1) car is just under 90k and it's an 02
2) first owner, but no warranty of any kind from the dealer (checked at a dealer)
3) independent shop says it's a busted valve spring estimated at a $1600 repair
4) CEL codes are 300, 301, 302, 303 and 304
5) the shop also did a engine vacuum fluctuation test and said that the results were swinging up and down wildly (not sure what this is)

What do you guys think?
Sounds like a little more than simply replacing a broken spring, like maybe all new valves, lifters and springs. If your considering spending that kind of money, I be real clear on what type of valvetrain rebuild is being done.

Codes mean nothing to me, DTCs (fault codes) are 5-digit, here's a source for looking them up -
Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki

Btw, vacuum fluctuation test - tried Googling it and it seems to have to do with udder milking equipment. (lol)

M.
 

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The codes are for misfires. P0300 is a random misfire, and each other code points to a misfire on each cylinder (P0301 - cylinder 1, etc.). That would lead me to think a coil pack or spark plug/wire issue.

Not sure about a vacuum fluctuation test is. I did find this: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine and it has a table there discussing findings from vacuum readings. Not something I've heard of being done before. But yeah, at $1600, its more than just replacing a spring, or at least it better be!
 

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1600 bucks for a 2.0 head job. I have seen heads for between 300 and 400 complete.
What makes them think its the valves?

If there" vaccuum test" results are bad maybe its a vaccuum leak.

That would cause the symptoms.
 

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Did anyone there check the most basic things. Like "The Spark Plugs"? If they are fouled or improperly gapped it could cause all sort of missfires etc.
$1600 is way too expensive for a spring or even a complete valve job. I would look for a good rebuilt head and just swap it yourself. If it is indeed the valve train. I would get a second opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the input guys. I do want to get a second opinion but when the car isn't drivable it's such a pretty big pain.

Today I went ahead and gave him the go to start working on it. He seems like a reasonable guy and if he figures out it's a much simpler problem then he thinks he won't charge me for the unnecessary work.

I wish I had the time to fix this myself, although the extent of the work I do on my Honda is a valve adjustment. I just need this fixed asap as my wife has no car to drive to work, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just got the car back today ... it was a bent intake valve. They machined the head and replaced the head cylinder gasket and the valve itself. At least she runs really nicely now, but man was that expensive.
 
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