NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I'm new here. I just got a '99 bug with 114000 miles on it. Now I'm having some weird problems and asking for some advice. I'm a mechanic and quite familiar with Japanese and American cars. However I know that German cars are not as easy as them. Any idea helps thank you.

1. When I got the bug the cyl 1 and 4 were not firing. The previous owner told me that he replaced with new plugs and wires so I think the coil was bad. Replaced the coil and then it seemed OK and drove it 70 miles to home. Also after getting home I replaced engine oil/filter using Mobil 1(2 times), air filter, fuel filter, and the upstream oxygen sensor with new ones. After that the check engine light went on and read the codes was 16806 which is the catalyst problem. This should not affect the engine operation but I've experienced over 70% times hard starting. Most of the time I need to do 2-3 attempts and pop the gas to get the engine started. The engine runs very good after I start it, no rough idle, no power loss, just hard to start. It's easy to start if I start it within a short time(let's say within 15 minutes) after shutting off the engine. Also the computer reports codes 16684(multiple misfire),16685(cyl1 misfire),16686(cyl2 misfire) and 16687(cyl3 misfire). A few days ago I read some postings saying the crankshaft position sensor(also known as engine speed sensor) might be bad and I measured it with multimeter, got the resistance between terminal 2 and 3 was 923 Ohm when cold and 1128 Ohm when hot. The Haynes manual says it should be between 480 and 1000 Ohm so I suppose it's bad then replaced with new one. The problem seems to be better because before the replacement I can smell some gas odor from exhaust after cold start and it goes away after a few seconds while after replacement I can only smell some odor indicating rich mixture(not completely combusted). Also the hard starting problem seems to be better(normal when starting cold, 2 attempts when hot). However the computer is still reporting 16684, 16685, 16686 and 16687. Any ideas?

The previous owner told me that he replaced the timing belt and water pump at 100K. Is it possible that he didn't install the TB properly? Most of the time if the TB is installed one tooth off then the power shouldn't be normal in Hondas that I serviced. I don't know quite well on this engine. Also is it possible of a bad head gasket?

2. The ABS light was on since I got it. Code is 01276 which is the control module. I cleared the code and it comes back again. However there is a weird thing that last time after I disconnected the battery and put it back on the code cannot be erased. It can be read but if I erase it it says DONE but the code is still there. But this morning after I cleaned the battery terminal and wires and put it back again, it can be erased again! Is it caused by a loose connector? If so which connector can be loose?

3. Sometimes when I stopped at a traffic light, transmission in D, pressing brake and have the A/C on with the fan at the highest speed, the Brake light would flash. It goes away after the traffic light changes green and I press the gas pedal. I checked the brake fluid is OK and I replaced it with DOT4 fluid. I did a test that every time it begins flashing if I change the fan speed to lower it goes away too. So I think it might be the voltage drop. How can I test it? Is it a sign that the alternator is going?

4. I'm wondering whether this car has an engine splash shield? I got this car without any plastic shield at the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Just wondering if you ever solved your Brake light problem. I am experiencing the exact same thing, when I pull up to a stop with A/C on it will blink and beep but if I turn it down or accelerate it goes away until next stop.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
Hello everyone I'm new here. I just got a '99 bug with 114000 miles on it. Now I'm having some weird problems and asking for some advice. I'm a mechanic and quite familiar with Japanese and American cars. However I know that German cars are not as easy as them. Any idea helps thank you.
I'm wondering whether this car has an engine splash shield? I got this car without any plastic shield at the bottom.
Try runnig your codes here for possible causes and diagnostics required
Ross-Tech Wiki
Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki
Then post up what you might need help with. As a mechanic, you should be able to understand most. Also post up any issues you are having for which you are not seeing any codes. It is best to get the codes read with a Vag-Com device as an SAE reader will not necessarily read all codes.

And yes, the car was manufactured with a multi-piece plastic lower shield, which either broke off, or was removed and not replaced.

Just wondering if you ever solved your Brake light problem. I am experiencing the exact same thing, when I pull up to a stop with A/C on it will blink and beep but if I turn it down or accelerate it goes away until next stop.
Have you checked for any stored codes. See upper response to OPer.


MORAV
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just wondering if you ever solved your Brake light problem. I am experiencing the exact same thing, when I pull up to a stop with A/C on it will blink and beep but if I turn it down or accelerate it goes away until next stop.

I solved it. It was the alternator. I used a multimeter to monitor the voltage. When MAX A/C and stopping at a red light, the voltage drops below 12.5V then the light would blink. I replaced the alternator(with a 120Amp one instead of the OE 90Amp) and the problem is gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I have had several of the same type problems. Plugs and Wires were my biggest problem. Also, the small vacuum hose that runs from the fuel pressure regulator was cracked and set all the same misfire codes. I took the battery tray out and repaired the ground under it, and replaced the downstream o2 sensor. I took out everything attached to Throttle Body to aircleaner and cleaned it good. These cars seem to get alot of residue through the strange crankcase ventilation they use. After all of that, No More Codes and the car runs great except for the Brake Beeping and Flashing that you were experiencing. Thanks for the update on alternator. I will get one tomorrow.

Looks like we have alot of the same issues so if you have any other issues let me know and I will try and help if I have been down the road. I am a Gen3 Corvette and Grand National guy who bought a Bug for me and my daughters to tinker with.

Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have had several of the same type problems. Plugs and Wires were my biggest problem. Also, the small vacuum hose that runs from the fuel pressure regulator was cracked and set all the same misfire codes. I took the battery tray out and repaired the ground under it, and replaced the downstream o2 sensor. I took out everything attached to Throttle Body to aircleaner and cleaned it good. These cars seem to get alot of residue through the strange crankcase ventilation they use. After all of that, No More Codes and the car runs great except for the Brake Beeping and Flashing that you were experiencing. Thanks for the update on alternator. I will get one tomorrow.

Looks like we have alot of the same issues so if you have any other issues let me know and I will try and help if I have been down the road. I am a Gen3 Corvette and Grand National guy who bought a Bug for me and my daughters to tinker with.

Good Luck.

No problem. Thank you.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top