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I am looking at getting a 2000 1.8t beetle, my father in law currently owns it and i can buy it at a good deal. it does have a couple problems :(, the main problem is that the oil was recently changed, with no problems prior to the oil change, and now it constantly smokes. Its not making any weird engine noises. it is using oil now, so is there a possibility of a screen or oil return line being plugged up from the old oil? any help would be greatly appreciated :eek: thank you in advance
 

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Do you know what brand and weight oil was used??

If any 0 weight oil was used, likely the problem.

Easiest solution for any oil consumption problem is to change oil with a slightly heavier oil and likely change brand. I would likely use a Castrol 5W30 or 5W40 and see what happens.

Could also be oil leakage at turbo seals as well, this can be check by removing lower rubber intercooler hose from under the car and check for a large amount of oil in the intake path.
 

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they used a regular 5w30 oil and it was one of my father in laws friends. he actually was the previous owner, changed the oil, had the problem and decided that instead of fixing it he would trade for a different car. thats how my father in law ended up with it. i dont believe the oil was over filled, tho by the time my father in law ended up with it it was having the smoking problem. Thanks again for all the help i really appreciate it
 

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when the cars ran without the oil cap on it the car stops smoking, so it must be a vacuum leak, but we don't know where the most obvious blockage would be
 

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Hopefully the prior oil change didn't harm anything. We will be getting full synthetic oil tomorrow and changing the oil. Hopefully this will help the smoking issue
 

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If it has been on dino oil, I would give it a month on Mobil 1 0-40 and then short change it. Then you know where you are.

Hopefully your turbo is not all coked up. Really, turbos hate non synth.

BTW: Your screen name takes me back to younger days and for that I thank you.:)
 

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Dino oil

No disrespect to y'll fine folks here at new beetle.org , but I have been using dino oil for the last 8 years now and still going strong after 190k miles on Babyblue. I was going to switch to synthetic but then after talking to a real good mechanice friend he said it could blow the seals if I change now, just keep going on dino oil. So far so good I guess. It Could be that if you live in a part of the country where the temperature stays below freezing for long periods at a time you would need synthetic oil. Here in south Texas we only get one or two days below 32 a year and that's it folks.

Have a good Friday folks, :)
 

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No disrespect to y'll fine folks here at new beetle.org , but I have been using dino oil for the last 8 years now and still going strong after 190k miles on Babyblue. I was going to switch to synthetic but then after talking to a real good mechanice friend he said it could blow the seals if I change now, just keep going on dino oil. So far so good I guess. It Could be that if you live in a part of the country where the temperature stays below freezing for long periods at a time you would need synthetic oil. Here in south Texas we only get one or two days below 32 a year and that's it folks.

Have a good Friday folks, :)
Your good mechanic that says changing from Dino to synthetic oil will blow seals is not a good mechanic.

Although you have had good luck with Dino oil, I do not use it in ANY of my cars at this point, Turbo or non Turbo.

Dino oil just cannot deal well with the higher engine temps these days and breaks down faster.

The only way you have lucked out with Dino oil is your oil change intervals and/or driving condition are likely optimal.

Where I live I cannot go 10 miles in under 45 minutes at times and my ambient temps vary by likely a 100F swing from high to low!
 

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upon further inspection its the turbo that is bad. the intercooler was full of oil and chunks of what looks like aluminum. unsure of what its from. thinking maybe something from the turbo? hopefully going to tear the turbo off this weekend. looking to find a decent priced replacement online. also, when we changed the oil it was a milky color and sticky,
 

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Wow!!!

Is the engine loosing coolant??

The turbo is liquid cooled with engine coolant so you could have some mixing of oil/coolant there, however, something is WAY off if that picture is accurate??

It is almost as if someone put something other than oil in the engine??

Coolant mixed with oil makes what I call a "milkshake", however, it is usually a milky brown color.

As for the aluminum bits in the intercooler area, depending on where you split the pipes apart, you could have had the turbo spit parts out that damaged the intercooler and what you are seeing are intercooler parts??

Make sure the engine did not ingest any thing in the intake path.

You may want to perform a cylinder leakage and compression test before you invest too much into this car??

Also if you repair this problem, make sure you replace the timing belt and water pump as well.

Good luck.
 

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jfoj, what is your change interval for 0w-40? I have never used synthetic, and had my car to a very reputable VW mechanic of 35+ years, and asked him about synthetics, he responded with change your 5W-30 every 3000-5000 miles, and you'll never have a problem. He has had a 1.8 for 10 years, and 190K on it, never using synthetic, and is doing just fine.
 

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Joshua,

This is somewhat a loaded question, but I will give it a shot. Note there will likely be a LOT of comments and opinions on this issue! I needed some additional time to think about the best way to try and answer your question.

I run synthetic in all my cars and typically change my oil between 5k-7k miles depending on the oil and the car.

I have a GMC truck, 2 BMW's and the VW at the moment.

There are a LOT of factors that play into how and when I change my oil and how and when you should change your oil. Some people get overly scientific about it and perform used oil analysis to help determine when to change their oil, however, most only perform the oil analysis once the oil has been drained during an oil change. To perform the oil analysis properly and use to this determine your oil change timing, you perform multiple oil analysis and use the oil analysis information to determine the time to change your oil. The problem is oil analysis is expensive and it is not cost effective to do this for cars that hold between 5-7 quarts of oil.

Mileage cannot really be a good indicator of when oil should be changed, you really should determine oil changes based upon the total number of engine revolutions, along with other factors of temperatures and driving conditions. This is really a hard thing to track and determine.

Additionally the driving conditions, engine load and engine, fuel delivery and ignition system health play into oil condition and contamination.

For example on my BMW's they recommend 15k mile oil change intervals. There is some give and take this this figure as BMW actually tracks the fuel usage to trigger the oil change indicator. This is close to tracking the engine revolutions, but there is a BIG difference on the amount of fuel consumed while idling and during wide open throttle. Note that BMW's tend to have rather larger crankcases, typically 7 quarts of oil, run full synthetic oil and if you use the specially formulated oil, it can and will run up to 15k miles without significant engine wear.

Many other things play into oil change requirements such as the time of year, the length of trips, the amount of traffic you sit in and so on.

You also have to realize that economics and time plays into the oil change intervals as well. I have 1 car that has about $100 worth of oil in it, so I am not likely to change this oil every 3000 miles. Other cars have close to $50 worth of oil in them. Also with 4 cars to keep track of, I do not have enough spare time with cooperating weather to change oil every weekend of the year.

On major thing that can impact the oil health is short drives in the Winter time where the oil does not warm up enough to cook off water vapor. This tends to be more true the larger the oil sump is and what the outdoor temps happen to be. Engine coolant comes up to temperature at least twice as fast as the engine oil temperature. If you ever check under you oil fill cap and see yellow/brown goo in the Winter time, you need to take your car on longer drives during the Winter months.

I also check my engine oil and watch the oil color and smell closely as well. It is not a full blown oil analysis, but it my way of also determining when I may need to change my oil.

As for your friend that happens to change his oil every 3k miles or so in his 10 year old car that has 190,000 miles on it only using Dino oil, this is good, likely he does not live in extreme temperature environment nor does this car drive is congested traffic. I am lucky to get much more than 10k miles on some of my cars per year, however, my engine likely turns as many or more revolutions than the engine that runs close to 19k miles per year! Additionally I deal with probably far more start/stop and warm up cycles than the 19k mile per year car as well.

So I feel the synthetic oil benefits my driving style and engine operating conditions that Dino oil and it will likely give me a longer oil change interval while still keeping the engine clean and well lubricated. Also the added heat from the turbo will break down Dino oil much faster and cause more coking , ash and varnish build up as compared with synthetic oils.

Hope this answers your question.
 

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synthetic

jfoj, what is your change interval for 0w-40? I have never used synthetic, and had my car to a very reputable VW mechanic of 35+ years, and asked him about synthetics, he responded with change your 5W-30 every 3000-5000 miles, and you'll never have a problem. He has had a 1.8 for 10 years, and 190K on it, never using synthetic, and is doing just fine.
Don't waste your money I've been using dino oil for over 30 years now with no problems and only change my oil every 5k miles. Use a good filter though,,,,,not cheapo generic brands. I have 190k miles on my beetle now and using 5w30 with no issues or oil problems so far.
 

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Don't waste your money I've been using dino oil for over 30 years now with no problems and only change my oil every 5k miles. Use a good filter though,,,,,not cheapo generic brands. I have 190k miles on my beetle now and using 5w30 with no issues or oil problems so far.
I'd be cautious with dino. 1.8Ts were prone to sludging. Using improper oil is one major cause.

I've run synth in all of my cars, turbo or not. The cost isn't that much more and its much better for the car, especially if its a turbo engine.
 

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Yep, the problem with asking about engine oil is EVERYONE has an opinion. There is a lot more that goes into the science of engine oil than opinions.

Just because a few people claim they have had good luck, not sure I would bank on it.

As they say, oil is cheaper than steel!

I forgot to mention something when I re-read the original question, I generally do not run any 0W oils in my cars, even if the oil "claims" it has a manufacturer approval, many of the 0W oils are too thin and you may find if you run these oil consumption could be an issue. Just because an oil claims to be "manufacturer" approved does not mean you will have a life long love affair with it. Many of these approvals are lab test based approvals and may have never even been tested in the manufacturers vehicles!

One oil I have heard a lot of folks have oil consumption issues with is Moble1 OW40. I do not recommend this to anyone if they have never used it. If you are using it and oil consumption is not a problem, then great. The good thing about oil consumption issues is the first thing you do is change to a different weight oil and maybe a different brand and see of your oil consumption problem improves. This is a very easy test/repair.
 

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Ahem! Poor Cherryblonde's thread was totally hi-jacked. I hope it can get back on track so they can get some help with the poor little bugs problem.

I'm just sayin' :rolleyes:
 
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